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Old 10-02-2011, 09:52   #1 (permalink)
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2001 Escape Cold Idle Issues

My girlfriend has a 2001 Escape with about 120,000 miles on the ticker and its having a large issue.

Started last summer when a coil pack went bad followed by another coil in a few months and in the process of fixing the issues did a tune, replaced the plugs, air filter, cleaned the TB and it ran fine till the winter hit and all hell broke loose and it will not hold a idle when the engine is cold and gets bad enough to where it will get close to stalling...

Fast forward to the spring and it idles okay but was rough following advice from some friends replaced the idle control sensor and it would start fine, cold idle would sit at like 4 grand but it would not drop idle when warmed up and if I blipped the throttle and took the motor to 4,500 rpms it would stay there and not drop down and driving it was impossible since it was holding such a high rpm.

Fast forward to summer and it runs normal with no problems.

Its now fall and the problems are coming back and she has to sit there for 5 or 10 mins till the car warms up.

I have been trying to figure out what in the hell could be the issue and any help would be helpful...
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Old 10-02-2011, 10:01   #2 (permalink)
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Re: 2001 Escape Cold Idle Issues

Could check the engine coolant temperature sensor .
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Old 10-04-2011, 08:12   #3 (permalink)
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Re: 2001 Escape Cold Idle Issues

Was the 'idle control sensor' you replaced actually the IAC, or Idle Air Controller? It would have been attached to the intake manifold, near the throttle plate. It allows air to enter the intake manifold, much like a very small throttle plate, and regulates the idle speed for load variations and cold idle speed bumps and regular idle speed. Loads are the A/C and power steering pumps, so the IAC will bump the idle when the A/C is turned on, and when the power steering pump gets loaded. It also bumps when the transmission is placed in a drive gear.
If it does these things, it is working. The high idle speed can also be caused by an air leak to the intake manifold. If the either the air temp and/or coolant temp sensors are broken the PCM can also command a high idle.
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Old 10-05-2011, 14:56   #4 (permalink)
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Re: 2001 Escape Cold Idle Issues

If you replaced the IAC, was it a Motorcraft part?
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Old 10-05-2011, 18:21   #5 (permalink)
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Re: 2001 Escape Cold Idle Issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by tomw View Post
Was the 'idle control sensor' you replaced actually the IAC, or Idle Air Controller? It would have been attached to the intake manifold, near the throttle plate. It allows air to enter the intake manifold, much like a very small throttle plate, and regulates the idle speed for load variations and cold idle speed bumps and regular idle speed. Loads are the A/C and power steering pumps, so the IAC will bump the idle when the A/C is turned on, and when the power steering pump gets loaded. It also bumps when the transmission is placed in a drive gear.
If it does these things, it is working. The high idle speed can also be caused by an air leak to the intake manifold. If the either the air temp and/or coolant temp sensors are broken the PCM can also command a high idle.
tom
It was the IAC and when I replaced it the A/C was off and the car was sitting in the driveway. Forgot to mention all vacuum lines have been changed and intake manifold gaskets have been changed twice.


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If you replaced the IAC, was it a Motorcraft part?
No it was not and if thats the reason then she will have to deal with a bad idle till she gets rid of this POS...

Yes I hate this SUV of hers and can't wait till she gets rid of it cause its starting to get to the point where fixing it is almost more than its worth...
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Old 10-06-2011, 07:50   #6 (permalink)
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Re: 2001 Escape Cold Idle Issues

If you go poking around on craigslist and auto-trader you will find that one of these in decent shape, even at the 2001 vintage is worth quit a few bucks. People seem to really like them.
Remember that if you/she dumps this for something new/newer, there'll likely be monthly payments, for 36-48-60 months depending... If you or she decide to actually fix it, you can spend a lot less than 12 monthly payments and put aside something every month to cover repairs in the future. If she knows the vehicle, the maintenance, etc, she would know if it had been kept up or abused. When you buy someone else used, you really don't know how it was kept up.
You should check the ACT and ECT, which tell the computer the Air and Coolant temperatures. The computer adjusts the idle speed and mix based on those two inputs, plus the 'load' inputs of the power steering, A/C compressor, and automatic transmission in gear.
Once it warms up, the loads mentioned above can be added/removed to see if the idle is maintained evenly with little change. I.e., turn the A/C off and on while watching the rpms. Move the steering wheel while stopped, adding pump load, and watch the idle. Move the transmission selector from P or N to a load in the D or R positions and watch the rpms. There may be a slight bump, and then return to normal hot idle speed. If all that happens, the IAC is working correctly.
You can also test the MAP sensor, as some have one to detect 'load' conditions in addition to the 'air flow' condition detected by the MAF. That allows for finer adjustment of the idle fuel spec.
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Old 10-06-2011, 08:18   #7 (permalink)
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Re: 2001 Escape Cold Idle Issues

Good info, Tom.
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Old 10-07-2011, 17:29   #8 (permalink)
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Re: 2001 Escape Cold Idle Issues

I am about to take the truck to a friend who is a mechanic and have it "hooked" up the machines and have everything checked and see what little tiny thing could be the issue and hope it doesn't cost a arm and a leg to fix...

She bought the Escape used about 7 years ago with like 50K miles on it and I dunno what the maintence history on it was.... With the current condition of the car its only worth about 2 or 3 grand and so far she is in at about 1,500 bucks on repairs...
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Old 10-08-2011, 05:03   #9 (permalink)
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Re: 2001 Escape Cold Idle Issues

So during the 15 months from last summer to now, she spent about $1500 on repairs. If you were to be making car payments, that would be about 5 months car payments @$300 per. I'd think the real consideration is whether she likes the car, or wants something else.
If she decides to trade one way or the other, she will likely end up with either 1)higher monthly outgo, or 2)another vehicle that is a mystery as far as its condition, within limits.
You can buy a code reader for OBD-II diagnostics and 'streaming date' for less than $100, and know exactly what the PCM is commanding the engine to do. The tool should be usable on all vehicles sold in USA since 1996. I think.

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