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2001 Escape Cylinder Head(s) Removal

33K views 18 replies 3 participants last post by  Bert 
#1 ·
Hello all I am new to this forum and Fords for that matter and need some advice please. I have just purchased an 01 Escape XLT as a project learning car for my 16 yr old son to learn some mechanics. It was bought knowing it overheated due to radiator failure (but still runs) and blown a head gasket. I have removed the culprit radiator but am now perplexed at how to remove the cylinder head (closest to fire wall) without a total engine removal. Is this possible? Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

Tom B
 
#3 ·
Thanks Bert for the link. Sorry I did not mention the engine type. Yes it is the 3.0L V6. The way I am reading the procedure is that it is possibe to remove without engine removal but all it's saying " remove: exhaust manifold". That's where I am having my issue. I can remove the lower portion of the exhaust manifold (fire wall side) but not right at the head itself. I can't get my hands back there. Will that pull out from the top if I do that?
Tom B
 
#5 ·
Spoke to a Ford Tech today and was told the heads can be removed (although very difficult) without removing the engine. As I thought the left bank exhaust manifold needs to be disconnected at the lower catalytic flange and pulled out from the top and then removed from the head once out. The other tricky stuff is removing the timing chain and pulley's on the front of the engine.
 
#8 ·
Thanks Tomw. Sorry I did not reply sooner but I have purchased a shop manual from ebay and explains it pretty well. Now at least I know when looking at the front engine cover the left cylinders are on the right side and right on the left. I guess this is because if sitting in the car and the engine were not transverse mounted then the passenger side is the right and the driver side is the left. Now the engine is rotated 90° clockwise and this makes it what it is. Weird! I have not yet gotten the heads off. Only because it is too fricking hot right now (east Texas - over 100° for a month now). Next step is taking the front engine cover and timing chains off when it cools a bit.
 
#9 ·
Finally got the heads off... What a pain in the ass that was! Now don't get me wrong I have not been working on it straight on just occasionally because it's been so hot here in Texas lately (100+ for months now!). And yes, the right bank head can be removed with the exhaust manifold attached. Probably the hardest portion was the alternator/bracket detachment (removal from the car requires the passenger side drive shaft removed).
I have a new question... should the water pump be replaced? Even though this was not the reason the engine overheated. I am about to start purchasing the replacement parts.
 
#10 ·
Ok it's time to report back....I have completed the rebuild of the top end. That is magnaflux and resurfaced the heads (they were OK) and valve job and put it back together with a new top end gasket set. Replaced the radiator, hoses and thermostat. Fired it up and it runs fine except when in park (engine is at temp) and I step on the throttle it takes it a bit of time (approx 3-4 sec) to return to idle - just kind of hangs. I am new to Fords so maybe it's normal. Is it? If not, why?
 
#11 ·
I would check the IAC first. If it is gummy or clogged, it can be slow to close the bypass, and the idle will not come down as quickly as expected. Sometimes cleaning them will work, and sometimes they need to be replaced.
In case you didn't know, the engine was designed by Porsche. It sure has a turbine-like whine that reminds me of other Porsche designed engines...
I figure that the computer has re-learned its parameters, assuming that is was disconnected from power while you worked on the engine, so it should re-learn its idle settings over time, but not real long. If you replace the IAC, you might consider disconnecting the battery, and stepping on the brake pedal. That would discharge the Keep Alive Memory in the PCM. Or, you can just leave it disconnected overnight. Or do nothing...
You might also check to make sure that you have all the vacuum lines connected without leaks. The idle speed can increase if there is a leak to the intake manifold.
tom
 
#12 ·
Thanks for the quick reply tomw. Yes, the battery was disconnected so the default parameters should be reset. I took the IAC apart and tried the cleaning thing put it back together... still same problem. With engine running I the disconnected the IAC control wire connector and the engine started a rough idle but recovered. I then opened the throttle and released and the engine behaved normally ie.. it came back to idle quickly but again a little rough then... OK. I put the control back on and it's slow again to recover back to idle. Does this indicate a bad IAC? I hate to start shotgunning parts.

Oh, forgot to mention that the vacuum line are OK. No leaks. The engine with the IAC connected idles fine it's just when the throttle is opened to say 3500 rpm it is slow on the return to idle. Also, with the car in park and not loaded I open the throttle to a little above 4200 rpm it acts as if the limiter is not allowing the engine to rev any higher is the normal?
 
#13 ·
There is a rev limiter that is activated in neutral {and park?}.

If you disconnect the IAC, rev the engine, and it drops back to ~normal idle rpm immediately, but when you reconnect the IAC wires, rev the engine, and it take a while to drop back to idle, then the IAC is being controlled 'open' somewhat. The only difference is the computer signal getting to the IAC, so it must be a computer controlled activity.
The IAC is also used by the computer to act as a 'dashpot'. A dashpot will prevent the throttle from snapping closed, and killing the engine on an engine with a carburetor. The IAC does essentially the same thing by providing some 'throttle' as the butterfly closes, not choking the engine completely.
If the idle is rough, then you have spark, injector, or mechanical problems, but I think you are observing the normal idle instability if the throttle is snapped open and then closed quickly.
I understand that these engines also have a MAP sensor that 'knows' Manifold Absolute Pressure, or manifold vacuum. It may be that the vacuum reading is fed to the PCM to let it know how much to goose the IAC.
If you have a DVOM with a Hz reading, you can check the MAP's reporting capability based on the altitude above sea level and reported barometric pressure. The Hz will vary based on local pressure and a DVOM can report the Hz generated. I don't have the table of values, but if it is diddling with the Hz as the throttle is opened and closed, and the numbers raise and lower accordingly, it is likely to be ok. If not, it may be that the MAP is not telling the PCM that the engine throttle is closed, or is closed when it is not, so it in turn diddles with the IAC to keep the engine running.
tom
 
#15 ·
The IAC should bump the idle to ~750 rpm, or rather keep it there, when the A/C is turned on, when the power steering is loaded at idle, and when the engine is first started.
It should be ok to drive, even with one that is a little sticky, just be prepared to use the brakes a bit more, or drop off the gas pedal sooner when approaching stops.
The IAC should bump the rpm when the engine is first started, to over 1k rpms, and then lower it as the coolant warms up. If it is working.
tom
 
#16 ·
It starts cold at about 1200 rpm then drops pretty quickly as it warms and does bump slightly when A/C is turned on. I spoke directly with a Ford Tech and he basically said the same thing as Tomw said that the IAC acts as a "Dashpot" and is working normally. The car road tests fine. All is norm I guess, just seems odd to me. Thanks again for all the help.
Tom
 
#17 ·
Other than that, how do you like it? Has your son learned anything you'd care to comment on? I would note that when you take 'all the stuff' off the top of the block, it seemed to me that the real 'engine' part of the engine was so small. The heads and all the auxiliaries bloated the size of the engine a whole lot and made it appear larger than it was.
tom
 
#18 ·
Well the training didn't go as I had hoped. Largely because I am so anal about stuff that a lot of the work was done without my son witnessing it. Basic bolt size determination and component part removal/cleaning with placing the parts in containers for help in reassembly was about the most of it. At least a start...right. Yes, you are right about once the top end is pulled off the remaining engine block was quite small. One thing I hated about this task was having to remove so many other pieces just to get a certain component off. Speaking especially about the alternator removal. Also, the fact that the engine is transverse mounted makes for some tight areas to work in. Breakdown of car cost is:
Purchased car for $1000 with engine overheated. Mileage 189K
Ford Shop manual $35 from ebay.
New Radiator, coolant reservoir bottle, all hoses, water pump and thermostat, heads magnafluxed w/valve job and machined for heat warp, top end gasket set and oil pan gasket, gasket sealant, transmission oil (2 qt) for power steering and tranny top-off, coolant (3 gal), engine oil (6 qt), replace accessory drive serpentine belt, replace water pump drive belt, replaced both rear window regulators and motors, replaced front windshield, replaced right/left lower splash shields, replaced right/left lower windshield cowl grilles, replaced all wiper blades, replaced air/oil filter and spark plugs for a total of $1844.15. Total car price now $2844.15. All work performed by myself & son.
 
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