2002 Ford Escape XLS 2.0L I4 5-spd manual
Castrol Syntec 5W-20 Full Synthetic (meets the Ford specification
Castrol Syntec 5W-30 Full Synthetic during Summer
Mobile 1 Synthetic 5W-20
Mobile 1 Synthetic 5W-30 during Summer
Motorcraft oil filter: FL-400S (listed in owner's manual
Motorcraft oil filter: FL-2005
Oil drain plug: 13mm wrench or socket. 18-ft/lbs.
Access is from the front of vehicle - the bolt faces towards the rear of the car.
Fram oil filter wrench: F1102 (74-76mm) Use with a 3/8 ratchet or 1" wrench.
(note: fram oil filters are consistantly rated poor in comparison tests. However, I like their filter wrench. O-Reilly's sells a Pennzoil wrench that's similar
Motorcraft FL-400S (listed in owner's manual
Motorcraft FL400S = Wix 51516
Motorcraft FL2005 = Wix 51315
Wix Filters has a handy cross-reference.
Manual transmission fluid (gear oil):
Motorcraft 75W-90 GL-4.
Royal Purple 75W-90 GL-4 It is non-corrosive to the yellow/soft metal parts & meets the Ford specification. 2.7L or 2.85 qts.
Filler plug bolt: 23mm socket wrench. 20-ft/lbs
Drain plug bolt: 23mm socket wrench & short extension. 35-ft/lbs
Remove the driver's side lower plastic shroud for easier access. I did not remove one screw that's located in the driver's side wheel well. I was able to squirt the gear oil into the filler hole without using a funnel or anything. I bought a screw-on filler tube, but it gets kinked when being routed. I'll fix that next time, so that the gear oil can be added more easily.
Gear oil note:
The gear oil needs to meet the GL-4 specification which is non-corrosive to the soft/yellow metal parts (brass bushings, etc
). GL-4 gear oil is surprisingly hard to find in Houston. I was hoping to use Valvoline or Pennzoil, but the Royal Purple was the only thing available. I called Pennzoil & was lucky enough to talk to someone there at length, but to no avail. The Royal Purple seems kinda gimmicky, but I got tired of looking: the car was due for a fluid change & I didn't want to waste any more time sourcing a product.
Motorcraft FA-1683 = Wix 42385
Fram CA8997 = Wix 42385
The old filter had been damaged by the previous installer. I had to straighten one of the housing clamps.
Cabin Air Filter:
Wix 24816 (using the Wix filter lookup for the Escape
Wix 24816 = Fram CF10137
Wix 42136 = MicroGard GA20070 (currently installed
I believe the new MicroGard number is MGA3036 - not sure.
My Escape did not have the filter. A number of other models don't have it either.
Here's a how-to for installing or replacing one: Tribute/Escape Cabin Air Filter
Motorcraft FG800A = Wix 33097
Fram G3802A = Wix 33097
The fuel filter has 2 different sized plastic retaining clips. Some fuel filters come w clips, some don't. The ones that do usually have 2 of the same size: so don't break the originals if possible. I simply doubled-up two smaller clips in place of the big one. The smaller ones are available at the auto parts store in the miscellaneous car parts/hardware section.
The clips are hard to access & have some tabs that need to be spread open so that they can be removed.
Raising the car a few inches is necessary to access the clips - don't damage them.
To elevate my car, I drive up onto solid concrete blocks - flat pavers from the HomeDepot.
The Chilton manual has a procedure for relieving the fuel pressure. simple.
Motorcraft AZFS-32FE. Torque to 132-Inch/lbs (~11-ft/lbs
) 0.050" gap (1.30mm
Autolite APP5364 Double Platinum
Autolite XP5364 Iridium Fine Wire 0.6mm
Autolite AP5364 Platinum
If a spark plug is removed & reused, it MUST be reinstalled into the same cylinder.
Installed Autolite AP5364 spark plugs & the vehicle ran fine. Used anti-seize. Replaced them w the Autolite double-platinums about a year later & they came out easy. There was no real need to replace them other than that the APP5364s are probably a closer match to the stock Motorcraft spark plugs (which by the way Autolite supposedly mfgs
(note: Champions may not be a good choice - the ceramic on them has a tendency to crack
Ignition Coil Pack:
Motorcraft (988F-12029-AC)(original coil pack)
Motorcraft DG-536 (988Z-12029-A)(replacement coil pack)
Remove neg battery cable. Disconnect spark plug wires from coil pack. Disconnect wiring harness connector. Disconnect capacitor harness connector. Remove the 4 screws holding the coil pack in place.
Coil pack screws: Torx T25 socket w extension. 59-INCH-lbs.
The car developed a hesitation & lack of power under brisk to heavy acceleration. After installing new spark plugs, a plug wire set, DPFE, & vacuum tubing, and after checking other stuff, I decided to get a new coil pack which solved the problem. The old unit tested fine & was in good visual condition; the mileage was ~70k. The check engine light came on after replacing the DPFE (P0304 - cylinder 4 misfire
Throttle body, air intake duct & MAF sensor service:
Removed the air intake duct to service these parts.
Used CRC MAF sensor cleaner & CRC throttle body cleaner (teflon/coating safe
Do not use carb cleaner. Use care when cleaning these components. Do not touch the MAF sensor & only use the specific spray cleaner for it. The throttle body & throttle plate have a coating on them: only use a cleaner spray that's coating safe. If necessary, lightly & carefully brush the throttle body w a soft toothbrush.
Mounting bolts: 80-INCH/lbs
Pipe connector: 30-ft/lbs (V6)(I4 - ?)(tightened by hand w a crescent wrench
Remove the air intake duct for better access. Sprayed the fasteners w LiquidWrench penetrating lubricant, let it soak, then drove the car. Repeated the process the next day. The EGR valve came out easy (I had read some horror stories
Motorcraft EV–224 (from owners manual)
Motorcraft EV250A (RockAuto)
Fram PCV FV349 (RockAuto)
PCV Valve tubing:
Replaced the rubber tubing connecting the crankcase breather pipe to the intake manifold.
Replaced the rubber elbow connecting the pcv valve to the crankcase breather pipe.
Replaced the smaller upper vacuum tubing from the evaporative canister.
Replaced the larger lower vac tubing from the evap canister.
Cooling System Flush:
Motorcraft Premium Engine Coolant (Green
System capacity is 5.3 qts (50/50 mix of coolant & distilled water
Radiator drain valve: 19mm socket or wrench
Radiator drain valve tubing: ~9mm ID or ~3/8" ID
Radiator upper nipple: ~37mm OD (this should be the same as the radiator hose ID
Engine block coolant drain plug: T40 Torx wrench
Thermostat housing screws: T25 Torx wrench. 89-Inch/lbs
Temporarily remove the thermostat so that the sytem can be flushed.
When done with the flush, reinstall the thermostat w a new seal.
(replace the thermostat if necessary; mine looked fine, so I didn't replace it
Using a shop vac hose & etc, I fabbed a water hose setup & connected it to the upper radiator nipple to flush the cooling system. I also rigged a swimming pool hose to the lower radiator/thermostat-housing hose so that the old coolant could be collected more effectively & so that the clean flush water could be directed to the lawn. I used two 2.5 gal jugs of distilled water as a final rinse.
Note: I did not remove the engine block drain plug. It may not be necessary on the I4, because afterwards I was able to add the correct amount of coolant & distilled water. I added it in equal parts in small quantities, alternating between the coolant & distilled water until full: coolant, distilled water, coolant, distilled water, etc.
Power steering pump leak:
The p/s pressure switch failed, causing a bad leak. ~$115 + tow. Nov. 2009.
A neighborhood garage performed the repair, replacing the bad switch and flushing/filling the p/s system.
Installed BFGoodrich Radial T/A tires. ~$450. Dec 2009
The new tires are an improvement over the old oversized no-name tires:
Improved handling, steering & ride. Sportier feeling.
The smaller 15" rims & tires give more responsive handling than larger tires & wheels.
If your wiper blades seem small, measure them w a tape measure & look at the amount of sweep on the windshield, then measure to see if longer blades can be installed.
I got longer blades for much better coverage: 20" (actual size is 19-3/4"
The rear wiper blade is 10". A longer blade won't fit.
Disassembled & cleaned the center console, shifter boot & parking brake boot.
Very easy. Also, lubricated the shifter at the base - it had an audible vibration.
Bare metal is under the console. It might be a good idea to add some sound insulation under there.
Shifterboot. shivvterboote. shivvterbootez.
Ford bulb F8RZ-13B765-BA (part number from another forum for a V6
Apparently, it's common for the odo bulb to burn out. It's supposed to be an easy fix, but I haven't gotten around to doing it yet. Not sure if a bulb can be purchased at the auto parts store. The bulb might be a #37 or #74.
I don't know if this is applicable to the XLS I-4.
Cleaning the engine bay:
I use shop cloths & silicone spray to clean the stuff under the hood.
Someone suggested using tire & wheel spray foam, so I tried it on the thermostat housing - it worked pretty good.
Or use Ford Engine Shampoo & Degreaser (F4AZ-19A536). The owners manual shows what areas should be covered when cleaning the engine (airbox, battery, & power-distribution/fuse-relay box
I've been using the Chilton Manual
, but it seems to cover the 6-cylinder engine more thoroughly... in regards to the photos anyway. It might be a better idea to get the Ford Shop Manual. The factory shop manual has diagrams & drawings only (no photos). Also, I use the Ford Owner's Manual as a reference.
Fr park/turn lamps ............. 3157 AK (amber
Headlamps ........................ HB2
Rr stop/tail/sidemarker ....... 3157K
Rr turn lamps .................... 3156K
Backup lamp . ................... 3156K
Center high-mount stop lamp 168
Rr license plate lamp .......... W5W
Interior dome lamp
Interior cargo lamp
See links in post #2 - Lock up??
Downloadable Ford manuals:
Owner’s manual & Scheduled Maintenance Guide
Other stuff: replace brake fluid, clean IAC.