Good afternoon. My Escape drives great except that in October 2011 the check engine light came on. I took it to a buddy of mine and he said it was the Thermostat, that it was stuck open (vehicle ran great but never "warmed up"), so we replaced it. Everything was fine until April 2012 (last month) when check engine light came on again & the vehicle rand very cold, would not warm up again. This makes 2 Thermostats in less than 6 months, any ideas?
Edit: Both times the engine light came on the same thing happened; the engine ran cold (needle barely going over C) and the same OBD2 code was present P0128
Last edited by Sokur; 05-16-2012 at 17:24.
Reason: Forgot OBD2 code
Me either, that's why I'm turning to the community who know a LOT more than I do. Last Thermostat I used was a Duralast that was supposed to be a direct OEM replacement. The new I bought (but haven't put in yet, waiting on your guys' replies) is a Murray (O'Reilly Auto Parts) OEM replacement.
2005 Escape XLT 2WD 3.0 V6
It's my daily driver but only gets ~8 miles per day
Me either, that's why I'm turning to the community who know a LOT more than I do. Last Thermostat I used was a Duralast that was supposed to be a direct OEM replacement. The new I bought (but haven't put in yet, waiting on your guys' replies) is a Murray (O'Reilly Auto Parts) OEM replacement.
2005 Escape XLT 2WD 3.0 V6
It's my daily driver but only gets ~8 miles per day
I have heard of cheap ones failing. They do normally fail by sticking open.
I'm in serious trouble now. The bottom bolt on the Thermostat housing is stripped, it just spins in place.
Well, you have only one choice. Determine the thread size and purchase a Heli-Coil repair kit for that size. I'm not really sure if auto parts stores carry them as I've never needed one but have used them many times when I still worked. It comes with a drill bit, special tap, insert(s) and a insertion tool. Google it for info and videos.
As far as the thermostat goes, that's your choice but if one brand fails twice, try another maybe at AutoZone before going high end Ford parts.
I have to get the bolt out first, it's stripped while still in the Thermostat housing, can't get it out. I think I have to pull the whole housing out now.
So here's the deal (if anyone is still watching this thread), I removed the entire Thermostat Housing, used a grinder to remove the bolt head and removed it with a pair of pliers. So I proceeded to replace the Thermostat and Gasket, put the cap back on with the new bolts, hooked everything back up and...
Nothing. Hot air blows through the vents, the Temperature needle STILL won't go above C and now the Thermostat housing is leaking. Come on guru's, I need some insight please.
So here's the deal (if anyone is still watching this thread), I removed the entire Thermostat Housing, used a grinder to remove the bolt head and removed it with a pair of pliers. So I proceeded to replace the Thermostat and Gasket, put the cap back on with the new bolts, hooked everything back up and...
Nothing. Hot air blows through the vents, the Temperature needle STILL won't go above C and now the Thermostat housing is leaking. Come on guru's, I need some insight please.
Wait a minute! If the threads are stripped you'll have to repair them to maintain a good tight seal. New bolts won't help much.
Your saying now that it blows hot air so that means that it is heating up. Maybe your temperature gauge is defective? Did you damage sensor/wire during your repair? Newer Escapes don't have a coolant temperature sensor, not sure if yours does??
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