I have a 2010 Mercury Mariner Premier with the 2.5 engine.
First I noticed that my fuel mileage was dropping.
Then, I started getting a misfire code. I tried all the quick things, as well as switching the suspect coil to a new cylinder and moving the spark plugs to see if the problem moved to a new cylinder. No luck.
After reading this thread, I checked compression finding that the cylinder which had the misfire was low on compression, like 30 lbs. I did a bleed down test finding that the cylinder had an exhaust valve leaking. I picked up a book at the auto parts store and read up a little on this engine. It looked more complicated than the older cars I've typically worked on, but have an extensive background in marine engines and thought I could do it.
What a totally different engine!!
The Chilton repair manual for that engine sucks. I ended up buying the ford shop manual online for $59.99 at factory-manuals.com. I ended up getting over 6500 pages of factory literature which made the difference for me.
I replaced all the exhaust valves and ended up having to grind the bucket shims back into spec. Timing the cams with the crank shaft and front pulley was very difficult. Mainly because of the special tools needed to do it. The tools to align the cams and crank are readily available, but the tool to hold the crank is like $240.00 to buy. Some guys say you can hold the flywheel side instead of using the crank holding tool, but I still had the engine in the car. I ended up making the holding tool, which took a while. My first try to tighten the crank bolt didn't work and the timing was off, so I had to do it again, that time it all lined up after rechecking.
Here is where I'm at. The vehicle is all reassembled and ready to go accept that I am waiting to get a new crank sensor because I need the tool that comes with it. The tool by itself runs about $90.00 or so. I talked to the people at the auto part store I go to and they said as long as I don't actually install the new sensor, that I can use the alignment tool it comes with and then return it only having to pay for the shipping of less than $10.00.
Then, I have to take the vehicle to a shop or dealer that can do a "NEUTRAL PROFILE CORRECTION" which resets the crank sensor. At this point, I have no idea how much that will cost.
In total, I am still less than $1000.00 because I did all the work, but it's been WAY more labor than I expected.
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