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Anything special about replacing brake fluid

3K views 15 replies 6 participants last post by  CatSkinner 
#1 ·
I have never changed the brake fluid on my '01 Escape. I googled the question, and found a couple different videos on how to do it, but not Escape specific. One video said you have to remove the ABS fuse and relay, but none others mentioned doing that and neither does my Chiltons manual. I've done it before on my old Jeep, but all that it has in the system is a proportioning valve, and I'm sure the Ford has more components involved.
Tell me if my steps are correct-
Fill the reservoir, and keep it filled throughout all steps
Open all bleeder screws and let them gravity drain until clean fluid comes out
Close all valves and bleed the system starting with right rear, left rear, right front, left front

Is that the correct way to do the job?

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
When I do it, I do one at a time and never let it run low on fluid. No fuses are pulled and the key is left off. After the fluid is clear all around, we make the ABS operate on a slippery area, wet or a sandy area. That runs the fluid out of the ABS system and the little fluid that was there is not enough to worry about.
 
#4 ·
I do like Bert does, one wheel at a time with a helper pushing the brake pedal down. I have heard it said that there is an order to which wheels should be bled, usu. starting with the wheel furthest away, which makes sense. As Bert cautions, should the master cylinder run too low, I believe you may introduce bubbles into the piston and valving of the master cylinder. Then you may have to bleed the master cylinder itself.
One thing I do with the rubber bleeder cap is to coat the inside with grease or heavy oil. It helps to prevent the threads on the bleeder bolt from getting rusty and potentially twisting off a bleeder nut. I don't think this would contaminate the system, since fluid is being pushed out of the caliper/wheel cylinder when bleeding.
 
#5 ·
The rubber caps covered the threads also?

I'm in the middle of replacing all the calipers on a vehicle right now. I noticed that half of the O'Reilly purchased Cardone rebuilts were missing the rubber caps. I was told that I was lucky that some had them as they normally come with none! If I had known this, I'd would have kept my old ones.

The rubber caps I have just cover the bleeder tips. I got some generic ones from Summit Racing.

I've seen some video(s) were they apply grease to the bleeder threads to keep from sucking air back into the system.
 
#6 ·
Bill,
The bleeder rubber boot covers that came original on my '04 Escape are very nice and fit snugly over both the nipple and down to the housing of the caliper (front) and wheel cylinder (rear) past the bleeder threads. However, that did not prevent the threads from becoming rusty. I did twist off the head of one of the wheel cylinder bleeders, and ultimately replaced that wheel cylinder.
Coincidentally, on anothere posting I had in this forum I talked about frozen drums. I bought new wheel cylinders for that car and they had the cheap "nipple only" covers. I went to NAPA and they had the longer bleeder covers that cover the threads, which I think are a good idea, a buck a piece.
 
#7 ·
I may put some anti-seize compound on them while I have the chance.

The guy at O'Rielly's said that they crack and fall off anyway! The car I'm working on is a '78 and they were still there but it's been in my garage since 2001.
 
#8 ·
What do people think about using teflon tape on compression brake fittings? It might help prevent corrosion, but more importantly it gives another layer of protection against leakage. Plus, I always squirm when tightening those fittings because of the mild steel and the fact there isn't always a positive feel when approaching "tight".
 
#9 ·
Teflon is great in certain applications, particularly on pipe threads, but from my understanding, petroleum products can break down teflon. Most brake fittings are actually inverted flare fittings and the flare is supposed to form the seal. What you are feeling is the male and female portion of the flare being seated as their 2 angles aren't exact and are compressed into each other. On a personal level, I prefer not to use teflon on systems where small orifices come into play (cylinders, etc.) as it's too easy to have a small piece on those small fittings roll off and settle into somplace you don't want them.
 
#11 ·
In the past, you weren't supposed to use Teflon tape on home gas fittings because of the worry about small pieces getting into the system. I understand that they have some new type of Teflon tape that is safe to use although I haven't looked for it.

Not sure one would have the lenght in a line to reflare, room for a flaring tool or what if there is a bend right there?

I just replaced both front lines on my '78 Corvette. One fitting was rounded off where even a flare nut wrench slipped. The other side came off but the wrench was stuck on it. Since I'm the original owner and the brakes have never been touched, I know that it came right from the factory like this!
 
#12 ·
" Not sure one would have the lenght in a line to reflare, room for a flaring tool or what if there is a bend right there?"

Many cases when it's not feasible , depending on location. You only need to cut of a very small piece , 1/2" if pushed for length .Apart from the main w/shop brake pipe kit , we had a small flare tool (Snap-on possibly ) which was ideal at times .Especially if it was a long and awkward pipe to replace . If uncertain on any pipes dont mess about , replace them .
 
#13 ·
" Not sure one would have the lenght in a line to reflare, room for a flaring tool or what if there is a bend right there?"

Many cases when it's not feasible , depending on location. You only need to cut of a very small piece , 1/2" if pushed for length .Apart from the main w/shop brake pipe kit , we had a small flare tool (Snap-on possibly ) which was ideal at times .Especially if it was a long and awkward pipe to replace . If uncertain on any pipes dont mess about , replace them .
The left side is a short line and not problem to remove to do whatever is needed but I'm affraid both would be too short if cut. So far, every line hasn't been easy to connect even with lines being loose or no clips yet. The other is the crossover line, a PITA to remove/reinstall, bent twenty different ways. Stainless steel lines are avaiable and suggested for this vehicle but since one has to bend it to get it out and the same going back, I passed on the SS!
 
#15 ·
Speaking of bending steel brake lines, how good are the replacement lines wrapped in coil? Do they bend adequately in those odd pieces of line? I have a decent hand-held bender, but it can't reproduce the very acute bends you find in some short lines (i.e., from the wheel cylinder to the bracket holding and attached to the flexible line on drum brakes).
 
#16 ·
Coils are designed more for copper, but with great care, you can do steel, but you can still kink steel with the coils. And then you lose the pipe and the coil. AutoZone carries a coated double wall that's supposed to be easier to bend, don't know how good it is, just putting it out there.
 
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