I have a 2006 Escape with the 3.0 V6. It did not include the towing package at purchase. I have put a class 3 hitch on it and a light cable. What I need to know is what else do I need to add to get the 3500 pound towing capacity. I have heard of a heavy duty flasher relay that replaces the standard one. Just wondering what, if anything, I need to add.
Because jet skis are light enough to pull with a bicycle. So a small SUV can manage. Still, all I want to know is what exactly is added to an Escape when you buy the towing package. If it's just the lame hitch and the wires then I'm good.
As far as I know, it's just the hitch. It may already have a wiring pigtail, my Rangers and Sport Trac did. I thought about getting an Escape Hybrid but I couldn't get a straight answer out of anybody about putting a hitch on. Ford says it can tow 1000 lb. but they don't list a hitch. I have a jetski.
Try the "Build And Price" section of Ford's website, it lists all the options for all the vehicles. Besides, it's fun to sit and build imaginary cars and trucks.
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After some further research, wptski is right. I stand corrected. The Tow Package also ads electronic Trailer Sway Control which, in Ford's words, "continuously monitors the trailer's yaw rate. If the yaw rate is excessive, the unit will gain control using engine torque or brake action."
After some further research, wptski is right. I stand corrected. The Tow Package also ads electronic Trailer Sway Control which, in Ford's words, "continuously monitors the trailer's yaw rate. If the yaw rate is excessive, the unit will gain control using engine torque or brake action."
Some have asked how to add the Trailer Sway Control later after adding a thrird party tow package and there's nothing listed in the manuals about enabling this feature. There's a slim possibility that it's enabled with the extra added wiring with the OEM package in the BJB somehow.
It's not there without the OEM package because if you have it, you can turn it OFF using a procedure in the owner's manual.
Every vehicle has a specified list of items that are included in a certain 'towing package'.
Light duty vehicles such as the Escape, will be fine for towing small boats and utility trailers. These types of trailers give minimal drag, say when compared to a 20 foot travel trailer with perhaps 40sq ft of frontal area (not the type that crank down).
Trailer sway control for the most part, is an added form of traction control so the vehicle stays where it's pointed. It won't help you if you're speeding. Some sway control systems work in correlation with a trailer brake controller as well. These systems can help brake a wheel slightly, or increase/decrease engine output. Personally, if you're trailer is balanced correctly there's no need for any of this.
The 3.0L V6 is a strong engine but even with a 4 speed transmission you'll find it wanting when climbing hills. The newer 6 speed is a welcome addition however. The common mistake is that people buy an SUV to tow specifically (not saying you are, just in general here!), and then complain that it's not getting 23mpg on the highway. A 3500lb SUV towing itself with a hard working V6 will eat the fuel. Take a large SUV that can tow three times that amount, and it'll get similar mileage towing 3500lb in a utility trailer just as if it were not towing at all. There won't be much difference in mileage as the engine doesn't have to work as hard. The downside is that on long trips without towing, you'll still get that amazing 15mpg with a full size SUV. Cost aside, this is why they were so popular before the cost of petrol went up.
By "light cable" I assume you're talking about a 4pin wiring connector. You don't have to upgrade the signal/light flasher for this. For standard rear lights and perhaps one side marker on either side, the flasher will perform fine. If you wanted to tow a trailer full of regular bulbs and have five or more per side that indicate direction change, then yes, an upgrade might be worth your while. New trailer LED lighting greatly reduces strain on the tow vehicle's electrical system and won't be affected at all no matter how many lights the trailer has.
As for the hitch, the factory Class II is standard. There was no class III option. Class II offers a maximum of 3500lb towing capacity. Class III hitch can be had at similar cost to a class II. Class III is rated for 5000lbs.
The consensus is that 10% of the total max hitch weight can be set on the tongue. A class II can handle 350lbs on the hitch, a class III - 500lbs. If you were carrying multiple bikes, or a tongue heavy trailer, it's a worth while upgrade. For most people even with a light utility trailer will never get close to 350lbs on the hitch with a compact SUV.
With the Escape is rated for 350lbs on the hitch. With that said, when you travel, you have to deduct the tongue weight from the vehicle's payload capacity. Total vehicle payload say 900lbs, minus loaded trailer (350), two passengers (350), leaves 200lbs left for kids and luggage to be in compliance with the DOT.
Now, 500lbs on an Escape will nearly put the bumper on the ground depending on what else is in the vehicle. If you need to pull that kind of weight on a regular basis or for long periods, I advise against it. Proper trailer weight distribution is key to towing safely - NOT electrical nannies.
I have a 2008 Escape Limited and the main reason for buying it was to tow my 2500lb bass boat package. This year will be my 6th fishing season towing. Bought the Escape in 2007 new.
It does okay when towing. Fuel burns like crazy. But for the 10-12 times a year I need to tow, the expense is far less than buying a F-150 or bigger to do the weekends dirty work.
Your Jet Ski's should not be an issue at all. Just use a class 2 and not try and push the limits too much.
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