I have a generic question regarding removing drums rusted to rear wheel hubs. Car is an '88 (Cadillac actually, though I don't like the GM forums), and the drums are very rusted due to age and MN winters.
I am not planning on re-using the drums, and they wouldn't budge after beating on them for awhile. I sprayed WD40 in the space between the studs and the drum holes. If that doesn't help, I'll probably heat them tomorrow with a propane torch. The brake shoes are not preventing removal, and the drum turns.
Any other ideas?
If you have the rear raised and put the lug nuts part way on, then run it in reverse and hit the brakes and do the same forward a few times, it usually brakes it loose from the center. PB Blaster or Sili-Kroil are the best.
Thank you all very much for your suggestions. It sounds like the puller is the way to go, and I was not aware that such an animal was available. I looked at the description on the Eastwood website, and another question was answered, namely, how to break the rust bond. Apparently you tap on the jaws that contact the drum and that gives the percussive encouragement to break that rust bond.
I thought I would let everyone know what happened in case it has value for future reference.
I did get a generic puller at a rental shop, one whose jaws I thought could get between the backing plate and the drum. I called a few rental shops, and no one seemed to have a brake drum puller, and most had never heard of one.
The backing plate was flexible enough to allow me to deflect it back and get the puller jaw between it and the drum. I hammered the jaw in enough to get good purchase, and since the jaw was pointed and graduated, it started the separation of the drum from the hub right then and there without having to use the center expanding nut. I think it was more the interference fit of the drum opening to the hub that made the drum difficult to remove, plus I did use a fair amount of penetrant and hammering. I then just worked my way around the drum between it and the backing plate to further remove the drum because there was enough rigidity in the backing plate to allow me to lever against it. I probably could have used a nail puller or crowbar with similar results.
The rustiness of everything is very frustrating and doubles or triples removal time of any part exposed to the elements.
Thanks again for everyone's comments.
I recently had the same issue on my Camry; not Ford I know, but could be done on any vehicle with frozen drums. I tried heat, PB, and a rubber mallet and my rear drums wouldn't budge. I resorted to an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel on it. I just went around the farthest outer rim of the drum keeping in mind the axle behind it, and didn't go to deep so I wouldn't get into the components. I just cutout a square all around the drum and it fell off. I could then get a large screwdriver behind the remaining material that was rusted to the axle hub and pry it off.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.