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Won't start, airbag light stays on, no other dash lights

150K views 44 replies 17 participants last post by  R.S.LOGAN 
#1 ·
Full backstory: Key for car was lost, and the car (2008 Escape) has been sitting for about 6 months... battery died.

Got locksmith to come over and he tried to program new keys. Since the battery was dead, he put a charger on the battery first. His device for reprogramming the car's computer wasn't working, so he removed the charger, and then replaced the charger, and then the dashboard lights lit up properly, and he was able to program the keys, and start the car.

I drove the car around for a bit to charge the battery, and then parked it in my driveway. The next day, I tried to start the car, and the airbag light was the only light on the dashboard that came on (and stayed on). Horn, windows, lights, and radio all worked. Tried jumping the car... nothing. Replaced the battery with a brand new one... nothing.

I've checked the fuses, airbag connectors under the seat, wiggled the key, disconnected the battery over night... basically every recommendation I can find on the internet.

Anyone have any ideas as to what this might be?
 
#2 · (Edited by Moderator)
Is the security dash light normal when you insert the key into the ignition? If so when you turn key to start is there any indication of the engine cranking?

  • If not check for bat v on the starter solenoid and starter with ignition in start position.
  • If no v on the starter solenoid suspect ign switch, P/N switch, BCM/ PCM/ start relay/ wiring.
  • If v correct on starter solenoid/starter during no crank suspect starter/wiring
 
#3 ·
Is the security dash light normal when you insert key into ignition? If so when you turn key to start is there any indication of the engine cranking?
If not check for bat v on starter solenoid and starter with ignition in start position.
If no v on starter solenoid suspect ign switch, P/N switch, BCM/ PCM/ start relay/ wiring.
If v correct on starter solenoid/starter during no crank suspect starter/wiring
I will check the rest of these tonight, but the PATS security light never comes on at all. The ONLY light that comes on is the airbag light. No mileage, no diagnostic lights... nothing.
 
#44 ·
I've got a 2012 fusion se and mine is doing the exactly the same thing,I tried to hit the dash and now other odd lights light up now instead of airbag light I'm going to resottering the dash plug pins connectors and I will letting you know soon if it fixed mine
resottering all connectors and plug pins in dash, I'
 
#13 · (Edited by Moderator)
I agree that it's strange. :)

Took the battery back in to Pep Boys and got it fully charged. Put it back in, and I'm still having the same issue. To break down the codes:

  • P1000 is ignorable. Won't go away until the car's running and it gets good data
  • P1260 is "Theft detected - Engine disabled". Basically, it's PATS, but since there's no red light on the dash, the failure is being caused by something else.
  • U0140 is "Lost Communication with BCM (Body Control Module) AKA:GEM". This is the one that has my eyebrow up... I'm not sure what to do to test this, though.
  • C1145 is an ABS issue. I don't think it would cause the car to not start.
  • U1900 is a "CAN communication Bus Fault". Related to U0140, perhaps? Maybe I have a bad PCM?
 
#14 ·
Not a bad pcm. If it was just a pcm or bad gem you would have other functions. Neither of those would cause the cluster to not function at all unless they are bringing down the communication network. But that raises other questions of why after just parking overnight. And since you can get codes from the pcm,abs module at least you know they are doing something. What modules did you get the U codes from? Can you do a network test with the scan tool you have?
 
#15 ·
Here's the results of the test I did last night with FORScan (I will try to get the Freeze frame information later):

===PCM DTC P1000-FF===
Code: P1000 - On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) Systems Readiness Test Not Complete

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Check of all systems is not complete since last memory clear.

--Possible Causes--
- The vehicle is new from the factory and has not yet been through a complete OBD Drive Cycle.
- The battery or PCM has been disconnected.
- An OBD monitor failure had occurred prior to completion of an OBD Drive Cycle.
- The PCM DTCs have been cleared as part of a service process.

Note: The only way P1000 can be cleared (removed) from memory is when all of the OBD monitors have been successfully completed during normal vehicle operation.

P1000 cannot be cleared from the PCM when: 1. The thermostat is stuck open and a DTC is not generated. 2. There is an open VSS circuit and a DTC is not generated. 3. If the vehicle has a Power Take Off (PTO), the circuit is shorted to VPWR or B+, or the PTO is ON during Self-test.

The purpose of the Diagnostic Trouble Code DTC P1000 is to indicate that not all of the On Board Diagnostics OBD monitors have yet been successfully completed. To clear P1000 in the shortest amount of time, follow the link to the OBD Drive Cycle. If the link is unavailable, the OBD Drive Cycle can also be found under Toolbox. You may also refer to the OBD Drive Cycle defined under the Powertrain Control/Emission Diagnosis Manual-Diagnostic Methods or the Owner's Manual.

Remember: It is not necessary to remove P1000 from the Powertrain Control Module PCM by driving the vehicle unless it is requested by the customer to pass an inspection/maintenance test. Inform the customer of the need for additional driving when legally required to pass an inspection/maintenance test.

===END PCM DTC P1000-FF===

===PCM DTC P1260-FF===
Code: P1260 - THEFT Detected, Vehicle Immobilized.

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

THEFT Detected, Vehicle Immobilized.

This DTC may be caused by :

Suspect PATS module.

Suspect circuit fault between PCM and PATS.

Suspect PCM.

===END PCM DTC P1260-FF===

===OBDII DTC None===
Successfull DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: On Board Diagnostic II

===END OBDII DTC None===

===OCS DTC None===
Successfull DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Occupant Classification System Module

===END OCS DTC None===

===4X4M DTC None===
Successfull DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: 4X4 Control Module

===END 4X4M DTC None===

===ABS DTC C1145-E0===
Code: C1145 - Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Input Circuit Failure

Status:
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is On for this DTC

Module: Anti-Lock Brake / Traction Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Input Circuit Failure

This DTC may be caused by :

Sensor

Short circuit

Sensor Previously disconnected.

Open circuit

Damaged or contaminated connector

===END ABS DTC C1145-E0===

===RCM DTC U1900-E0===
Code: U1900 - CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error

Status:
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is On for this DTC

Module: Restraint Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error

Note:

DTCs that start with 'U' are faults which occur during module-to-module communication.

Modules should never be replaced based only on a 'U' code. These codes do not always indicate a problem, and can be caused by normal diagnostic functions, carried out on the vehicle.

===END RCM DTC U1900-E0===

===PSCM DTC U0155-6F===
Code: U0155 - Lost Communication With The Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module

Status:
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Power Steering Control Module

===END PSCM DTC U0155-6F===
 
#20 ·
P1000: Battery was disconnected, can be ignored.

P1260: Theft protection, if your battery keeps going dead, it may reactivate this code.

U0140: Lost communication with body control module, probably battery, still.

C1145: Right front wheel speed sensor input circuit failure. Shouldn't stop the car, I' address it once you get over the other issues.

U1900: CAN communications bus fault. This one might be what's part of what's biting you. I found this:

"Normal Operation The high speed CAN (Controller Area Network) has an unshielded twisted pair cable, circuits 1908 (WH) and 1909 (BK). The anti-lock brake system (ABS) module, the instrument cluster, the powertrain control module (PCM) and the trailer brake controller are all on the CAN. The total resistance values from the module to the data link connector (DLC) must not be more than 5 ohms. If the resistance is more than 5 ohms there is an open in one of the CAN circuits, damage to the DLC C251, damage to one of the communications network module connectors, or damage to an in-line connector.

  • Possible Causes
  • CAN circuit 1908 (WH) open, short to ground, or short to voltage.
  • CAN circuit 1909 (BK) open, short to ground, or short to voltage.
  • DLC C251
  • ABS module
  • ABS module C135
  • instrument cluster
  • instrument cluster C220b
  • PCM
  • PCM C175b or C1381b
  • trailer brake controller
  • trailer brake controller C2142b"
Before anything, I'd get a reliable battery. If you do, and have to leave it before curing your ills, you might want to disconnect the battery to prevent parasitic drain.
 
#21 ·
Drove the car to work... no issues. Drove it home, and once I turned the car off there, the exact same issue popped up.

The battery was the first suspect, which is why I tried another, and then bought a brand new one... neither fixed the issue.

I saw the CAN thing on another site... but couldn't determine where it (or its connectors) was. I'm fairly ignorant when it comes to cars (I'm a computer nerd). :)
 
#25 ·
Hello,
i just wanted to thank everybody for this thread and also for the original poster for following up with what the issue was as it I helped me diagnose mine.
I just wanted to add that even though it ended up being the instrument cluster that was malfunctioning and causing the vehicle to display nothing on the instrument cluster (except for the airbag light remaining on) even when the key was turned to the on or crack position, a hard tap to the top of the instrument cluster got it working again and saved me the tow bill to get it to the shop and telling them to replace the instrument cluster.
 
#26 ·
I had the same problem with an 08 XR6 Turbo. Car had been unused for a fortnight. Would not start with the same symptoms above - air bag warning on, no dash lights, fan and other relays clicking on.
Jump start - no good
New battery - no good
Read this thread. Thumped the top of the dash above the instrument cluster - ALL GOOD :)
Dash lights returned to normal and car started straight up.
Got to love the old thump the dash fix. I guess I'm up for a new cluster.
Thanks to all who contributed.
 
#29 ·
I figured I’d post this here because I am having a very similar problem.

I have a 97 Saab 900S 2.3L
It drove normally until one day it didn’t.
Now, when I twist the key to “on” lights, radio, windows- all work as normal. Except the dash is dark except a dimly lit SRS and ABS blinking light. There is no sound from the fuel pump, and no meters moving. When I turn to crank, the starter goes as normal, but there is no ignition.

I have tried:
-Jumping/replacing battery
-Replacing computer
-Replacing instrument cluster
-Testing ALL fuses/relays
-Computer reader (doesn’t detect any)
-All fluids are good
-Fuel pump was replaced this year

I’m really racking my brain on this one. Any ideas?
 
#31 · (Edited)
Old post, but sounds like you had a bad instrument cluster. If it goes out alot of time it cuts off the immobilizer circuit running through it. Thus rendering the vehicle inoperable. No crank, no dash lights/gauge power, No door chime, are a few symptoms. But there are more as well. You will get dtc's sometimes, but other times the vehicle will not throw codes out. It just depends on what is damaged in the cluster. Check that you have a good ground at the instrument cluster connector, then find the constant 12v hot and check that it has correct voltage. Once this is good turn the key to the on or run position. Then check engine on/acc 12v hot wire in the connector. (In total there will be two 12v positive/hot wires and one ground wire mixed in with the other wires going into the connector. One 12v hot wire will be a constant hot, the other will energize when the key is in the run/on position. If these wires check out good, then you know the problem is in the cluster itself. If wires aren't getting proper voltage/ground, then problem isn't the cluster. Check Fuses in fuse box or Smart Junction box. If good then check box itself. They fail quite often. Also connector pins for corroded/ loose connections. Then check all associated grounds. If you lose a ground then it will be a problem as well. But this sounds like the cluster went out. Peace..
 
#33 ·
Re post # 31 by Aburke80

" sounds like you had a bad instrument cluster "

Poster states instrument cluster has been replaced .

" No crank "

Poster states it does crank " the starter goes as normal, "

It sounds as if you may have a few faults , rather than just the one .Easy things first .
You could check crank sensor and wiring , if faulty you will get non start . Also check if you have a instrument panel dimmer switch and that is not turned down to dim .

Must have missed this post when originally posted , doubt help needed now .
 
#34 ·
Won't start, airbag light stays on, no other dash lights. 2014 Fiesta
I have the same issue today. Car has been perfect and all battery, fuses have had no issues. All maintenance is up to date and vehicle driven daily including today with no issues. However, I would like to add that before I checked here my suspicion is that the vehicle thinks it was in and accident and cut off all electric as a safety measure. The reasoning is that even though the car was parked we had HIGH WINDS with gusts over 50 MPH. Car was parked cross ways to the wind (not into it) and was likely buffeted by some gusts.
Any thoughts on this idea?
 
#35 ·
Walked back to car to try a reset by disconnecting ground from battery. Limited success, got the other lights to come on and got the usual chimes with ignition on. Managed to keep it stable long enough to roll up the window. Then tried to start and cluster started fritzing for a moment and then back to just the airbag light. Removed key completely and upon re-insertion got the lights on but still no start. Just for good measure tried the thump measure described above but no joy.
 
#38 ·
I had this problem on a 2010 Focus. Starts intermittently and when it won't start, only shows the airbag symbol with no power to dash, radio, lights, etc. It was corrosion on the negative cable of the battery. Brushed the cable end bright and shiny and now no problems. Of course, I replace the battery and ignition switch first (it was crunchy).
 
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