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Old 11-11-2010, 18:10   #11 (permalink)
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Re: 2000 5.4 replaced the lifters - started ticking again

Update : Things still slapping around!!!!!! Recap - all new lifters and plugs on both sides. New rockers on passenger side. Ran it with valve cover off to make sure it was oiling good on passenger side. After about 30 minutes of running it will start to "whack" on the passenger side. Originally thought the noise was from the 3rd rocker so another new rocker, spring and lifter was put there. Still whacks after warm up. Can put your finger on the rockers - except for the new rocker spring lifter in #3 spot - and feel the "whack" - the #3 spot feels smooth as it is running. Took it to the ford dealer this morning to ask them and first thing they said was it is a oiling issue. They were talking about 1100 in parts and labor for changing the oil pump. I had them put a manual pressure gauge on it and oh wow - 40 lbs of pressure with it whacking away - not an oiling issue. I asked them what they would do then to fix it if I left with them. They just shook thier heads and said not sure - you have replaced the two things we would start with and since the oil pressure is good and the chain tensioners are good - had them check to make sure the timing chain was not slapping for giggles since you can actually feel the whack on the lifter end of all the rockers. The only suggestion they had was to replace the other seven springs on that side and see if it goes away since the #3 one that I did that on was the only rocker you could not feel the whack on. Is it common for all the springs on that side to go bad at once or should I look else where for the whack. It does not do it when cold - starts after about 30 minutes of running. HELP HELP HELP
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Old 11-22-2010, 15:04   #12 (permalink)
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Re: 2000 5.4 replaced the lifters - started ticking again

I think it is a stuck valve. I ran it till it got hot and started making the whack sound again - all new lifter, rockers and springs on passenger side. Can see and feel the first rocker slapping around. All the others look smooth and when placing a small screwdriver on the tip of the rocker they all feel smooth expcept for the first one on the passenger side towards the front. Swapped out the rocker and lifter real quick and same thing again. Was about to change it again and as I was compressing the spring down I noticed that the valve did not slide down easily with the spring like all the others - the valve keepers almost came off - I had to push the valve stem down with a screwdriver as the spring was being compressed to put the rocker on. So- I'm assuming that is a stuck valve - now what - how do I unstick a valve without pulling the head and doing a valve job. Or is that the only way to unstick it? Thanks
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Old 11-22-2010, 17:18   #13 (permalink)
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Re: 2000 5.4 replaced the lifters - started ticking again

Sometimes running Seafoam through it will clean the carbon and take care of it.
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Old 11-22-2010, 18:41   #14 (permalink)
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Re: 2000 5.4 replaced the lifters - started ticking again

I ran two bottles of sea foam and one bottle of chemtool through the vacuum line - each time I sucked some up a little bit at a time then towards the end of the bottle I stalled the motor sucking up the liquid. Waited about 30 minutes then started it back up. I'm sure I have killed every bug within 10 square miles of my house. Did this three times and after just a little bit it will start whacking. I can put a cold lifter in and it will be quiet for just a little while. I did notice that instead of the front of the rocker pivoting on the lifter - after it got hot the cam would push the rocker down and instead of the back of the rocker pushing down on the spring and the front of the rocker pivoting on the lifter - the rocker would push down "flat" and push down on the lifter as much as it would the spring - I think squishing all the oil out of the lifter and making all the whacking noise as it beat up and down. Since the back is not moving the spring down could that mean the valve is bent not allowing the back of the rocker to go down and making it push all the oil out of the lifter with the front of rocker since that is the easier part to move? Bent valve or look somewhere else???
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Old 11-22-2010, 19:39   #15 (permalink)
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Re: 2000 5.4 replaced the lifters - started ticking again

Does the valve still stick down when you push it down? How does the end of the valve look? The cam lobe is smooth and no grooves or nicks? There's a bulletin on noise from the valve train but only when the temperature is below 19 deg F.
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Old 11-27-2010, 05:46   #16 (permalink)
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Re: 2000 5.4 replaced the lifters - started ticking again

I thinlk you will have to lift the head it might be a bent valve and to run it till the valve brakes in two will definately make more damage to the extend that the valve stem is presed into the head destroing the head when it enteres an oil or water passage.
my suggestion is to lift the head and overhaul the head and that will fix it well
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Old 11-29-2010, 10:32   #17 (permalink)
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Re: 2000 5.4 replaced the lifters - started ticking again

At this poing not sure if I should pull the heads and send them off, replace the valves myself along with the timing chains and tensioners or replace the motor with a rebuilt or low mileage one. The main or next question is since the heads gotta come off along with the the timing chains - is it easier to hoist the body straight up out of the way to get to everything or pull the motor. I have the facilities overhead to hold the body up and out of the way but am I asking for more trouble pulling the body over pulling the motor? Also - is it better to replace the valves and timing chain tensioners and chains or send the heads off / replace the heads and the chain stuff or just bite off the 1300 to 1900 for a rebuilt motor with a warranty? Any suggestions from the experienced bunch of yall who has so far been a wonderful world of help.
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Old 11-29-2010, 21:03   #18 (permalink)
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Re: 2000 5.4 replaced the lifters - started ticking again

The best thing I would advise is to have the heads rebuild the lifters are new so a head rebuild would be ok
but the best would be to rebuild the complete engine than you are sure that all the engine problems are out of the way.
the risk with buying a used engine is that you will not be sure about its conditionand risk buying someone else his problems.

regading the body I dont have experience with removing the body
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Old 11-30-2010, 17:27   #19 (permalink)
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Re: 2000 5.4 replaced the lifters - started ticking again

Looks like I'm gonna pull the heads and have them completly reworked and put the rest of the new stuff on them that isn't all ready on there , except for the cams. Also gonna put new chain tensioners and a new oil pump since it is all in there in that area also. I was also gonna go with a 170 deg temp thermostat. Was looking around and also considering a set of ceramic headers. There is all ready a flowmaster exhaust system and k&n filter on it. I'm not trying to built a race car and gas mileage is more important to me over horsepower. Is there any other low cost things to do to this while it is apart to maybe increase the gas mileage or what horsepower gaining things should I steer clear of that will kill the gas mileage. Does one of those throttle body spacers help as they claim they do and any suggestions on a good plug to use.
So - gas mileage more important -
headers for improved heat transfer and exhaust flow- ceramic / stainless / not at all.
throttle body spacer for improved air whatever it claims
170 temp thermo for cooler running temp
plugs - had bosch plats then those new E3 plugs in it now - any suggestions
coil packs - stick with stock ones I'm still using

currently has k&n air filter and flowmaster exhaust - will have rebuilt heads - I'm happy with the 16 to 18 mpg I was getting before but do not want to throw a bunch of stuff on it thinking it will help and I end up with 10 to 12 mpg and 50 more horsepower.

thanks
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Old 11-30-2010, 20:17   #20 (permalink)
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Re: 2000 5.4 replaced the lifters - started ticking again

I'd get Motorcraft or Autolite plugs, leave the original coils if they're working, Get a 190 thermostat. If the engine runs cooler than normal, the fuel injection will add more fuel and the mileage will drop. Not sure about the spacer or the headers. Using the K&N is alright if you keep it clean and get some MAF cleaner to clean the MAF often. The oil from the K&N coats the MAF and they don't run as good.
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