Just curious if anyone has done this before or not. I'll be posting pics and such for the forums since my hiatus. After the new year, haven't had any issues since my rash of plug blowouts.
Apparently the front seal for the transfer case is internal requiring the removal and disassembly of the transfer case, which is ridiculous for an $11 seal. So I'm doing that on top of removing the front axles, and front diff, to access the oil pan, since that seal needs to be replaced as well. Does anyone know the size of the Hub socket off hand, it's either 35 or 36mm if I'm not mistaken. I'm actually more worried about pulling the axles, then the transfer case to be honest.
Also I'm rolling the idea around of replacing the Trans filter, the issue is it's never been done since I've had the truck, it's clocking 130K. Now I'm not crazy enough to do a trans flush. But I'm getting mixed opinions, 1 is replace the filter, and reuse the old burnt trans fluid since the trans is used to it. 2 is replace the filter and use new trans fluid, to replace the few qts. that will drain out. The last thing I need is a new trans, I can put one in no prob, it's not that hard but time consuming, it's the $ of getting one. I know I'm playing w/ fire on this one. Any help would be much appreciated.
Never reuse old fluid. Transmission service is fine. I wouldn't flush with 130K, as it can dislodge particles and clog up the valve body = rebuild. Keep in mind that with a transmission service, you're not only replacing the filter, but you're only replacing 35% of the total transmission fluid capacity with fresh fluid. This should be done every 30-40K if you really don't want a flush.
As for the Xfer case seal, check around online for building specifications for your particular transfer case model. There might be an easy way to replace the seal without having to remove the entire unit. If you have to remove and disassemble you'd be best to get a rebuild kit and do it properly. If you don't plan to keep the vehicle long, then do what you must!
I did do a lot of research on the BW 4406 transfer case in my truck and the seal can be installed from the front, but only w/ the output shaft removed, which means opening the transfer case. Right now a rebuild kit isn't in the cards, albeit if I do find any cracked, or chipped gears etc. I will spring for a rebuild kit.
In regards to a trans flush, one method I have seen that most people say they have success with in a high mileage trans that hasn't been serviced. Is to disconnect the trans cooler line, and start the vehicle and allow all the old fluid to pump out normally, while adding fresh ATF as this goes on. Drive the vehicle for 3-5 days and then do this process once more, as to pump out anything that may clog as you mentioned. This method seems sound, as it would allow new trans fluid to replace all the old, and not use anything other than ATF, as well as allow for a period of particulate deposits to free up and be removed as well.
The horror stories I hear are when people go to a mechanic and get a service flush from a machine, these machines usually only use 1 type of ATF which isn't always the right ATF as well as a staged process, one to use compressed air to push all the old ATF out, 2nd is to pass forced detergent thru and then dump in the new ATF fluid. From what I gather, using forced air as well as the detergent is what speeds up the death of a trans.
I appreciate the response, and will continue w/ the transfer case 2mrw. I will post pics on what I find as well. And a how to guide of sorts for the forum. I will also be tackling my exhaust as well, purchased a Super 44 a few months back for dirt, and should hopefully have that on this week as well. Not a huge mod, but a needed and fun one.
This is more than likely gonna be way too much work, to get the transfer case out. Removing the bolts from the drive shaft to rear diff, to pull the shaft out of the transfer case, is at this point only possibly if I use a cutting torch. Maybe if I had access to a lift, I could go about it normally. But these bolts will not budge and trying to keep the drive shaft from spinning and trying to actually get the bolts to spin without stripping them will take a miracle. I don't have full access to a lift for as long as I would need nor a second set of hands. And the same process would be needed for the front drive shaft, where there is even less room to maneuver, no liquid anything I sprayed on the bolts helped at all.
Finally broke them free, did a little more research and found out Ford uses their other worldly red version of Loctite on those bolts, after some serious head scratching, I had 2 get creative. I'll explain the rest later.
This one has me a bit stumped as per the Haynes manual, and diff words of advice from my mechanic friends, problem is they're either Honda, or Diesel mechanics, so a bit to be desired there.
I got the rear drive-shaft bolts loose, and was planning on pulling the torsion bars and cross-member today. I was spraying the front drive-shaft w/ PB blaster, and noticed, it doesn't spin freely like the rear drive-shaft. I tired the trans in neutral and drive, w/ the t-case in AWD and 4Hi, and vice versa, and still the front drive-shaft does not spin. But I still have the rear drive-shaft in, w/ the rear wheels only on the ground. What am I missing?
Right now I'm at an impasse. I don't think putting tension on the gears of the t-case or the front diff, would be wise, while trying to break the bolts free.
Ok, so I did the get the drive shaft to spin, but in a round about way. Since the brakes were still pressing even slightly w/ the truck off and in neutral and jacked up w/ no wheels, I turned the passenger wheel hub, and was able to get the drive shaft to spin. I may take the caliper off, to see if it spins easier. I went to the passenger side wheel hub 1st since it's the drive wheel when 4WD is engaged.
I was able to get one torsion bar loose 2day at the cross-member. But the torsion bar will not come out of the front end at all. I tried a torch, Seafoam Deep Creep, PB Blaster, a small puller and a BFH!! Bastard will not come out of the front end. Can't move it forward or backwards. And the adjuster is rusted to the end of the t-bar, I'm going to assume I'm gonna run into the same issue on the driver side t-bar as well.
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