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Old 01-16-2007, 08:08   #1 (permalink)
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radiator flush

Hello All,
I have a 97 XLT Expedition with 4.6 lit. I am having heating problems (not hot enough when on high fan) and want to know if those radiators flush additive work or are it just a waste of money.
I did a complete flush of the entire system using my garden hose then refilled with 50/50.
-quadcells
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Old 01-16-2007, 17:45   #2 (permalink)
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Re: radiator flush

Check or replace your thermostat. They typically cost less than $20 with a new gasket.
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Old 01-16-2007, 21:10   #3 (permalink)
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Re: radiator flush

If 1meanGT's answer didnt solve your issue then:

A possiblity is if the problem started after the flush or you had a low coolant level before the flush then you may have an air pocket trapped in the system especially if it has a rear A/C. If you filled it on an incline with the back end higher it's a likely scenerio. Try burping the system making sure the front end is higher then the back.

I wouldnt waste a penny on additional things for your cooling system other then OEM coolant recommendations. They have engineers who only do coolant specs and such.
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Old 01-17-2007, 08:50   #4 (permalink)
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Re: radiator flush

I did replace the thermostate and yes this all started after the radiator was replaced. And yes it does have a rear A/C and Heat. I will try to burp it. My son's 94 T-Bird has a pipe that extends up over the engine and hoses. You open to let air out while you fill the coolent system, Why didn't they do that with the Expy?
Thanks again
-quadcells
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Old 01-17-2007, 13:05   #5 (permalink)
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Re: radiator flush

Well it all has to do with gravity and package space. The rear heater core is nearly at the same level as the high point of the system in the front. If the rear core sits higher or even close to the same level say when filling it, ( such as nose down in a driveway and/or on an incline) then sometimes the air is trapped in the top of the rear heater core.

It was a known concern to the engineer who designed the system. There just wasnt any room back there to get the heater core lower in vehicle and maintain the comfort requirements. I errr he did try his best get it as low as possible.

Seriously any decent dealership or garage will check for air trapping and some can fill it under pressure something they also do on occasion in the assembly plants.

BTW your son's 94 T-Bird highest point is the fill neck and the radiator is also higher then his heater core which sits, I believe, about sternum level inside the Instrument Panel, This makes air trapping a lot less likely to occur. I dont know the design engineer on that vehicle btw.

All sealed systems will eventual work the air bubble out but then you dont have enough coolant in the system filling your heater cores from top to bottom and this reducing their efficiency.

Check the coolant level and if it's down add more. Make sure to put it on an incline and nose high. Idling it will help get it purged. Let idle for awhile ( 10-15 minutes). If this still doesn't help a trip in to the dealership is in order but be sure to mention the radiator change out just in case you got one stubborn bubble.

Glad to help,
Magoogoo
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Old 01-18-2007, 04:11   #6 (permalink)
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Re: radiator flush

Thanks for the indepth description on the heating system, I haven't had a chance to do this but it does seem the heat is working better even in this server cold snap we are having here in the northeast. But I know the heat was much better when we got the Expy 5 years ago. I still would like to know if the "Radiator Flush" addive works to remove deposits or don't bother.
Thanks again
BTW: Would I need to open the overflow to remove the air when I have it on a incline.
-quadcells
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Old 01-21-2007, 19:22   #7 (permalink)
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Re: radiator flush

My thoughts and ideas may differ from others- but since you asked- this is my opinion:

Additives and chemicals that are used in coolant systems should be reserved for older or poorly maintained systems. Newer systems consist of more aluminum compontnents that their older counterparts. Therefore they are not subjective to the corrision problems as older systems. Since you recently flushed the system I believe an additive would not be necessary.

I suspect a bad or upside down thermostat, air in the system as MAGOOGOO suggested, or failed control of some sort.
I would eliminate the air in the system first as this requires the least amount of time and $, then check the operating temperature of the vehicle, fan speeds and then controls for blender door problems.

Good luck on your quest to solve the problem.....
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