fishhead

The calipers in the rear need replaced and I can't quite figure out how to disconnect the e-brake from the old caliper. There is a small c-clip that looks like it is what holds it on. On the new caliper I have there is simply a hole for the whole e-brake connector to slide through and the man at auto zone said that the c-clip would hold it on, however with the original c-clip off the e-brake still won't come undone. Need Help......?

bellyman

Not sure what an "e-brake" is.

(I have a 95 sable - think similar to yours - rear discs)

What a disaster when I changed my rear brakes.

First I went to the local auto store (Crappy Tire in Canada) - they loaned me the brake tool. Basically once the caliper is removed - (you are ready to install the pads) you fit the tool in and crank it - it fits the slot and then as you turn it pushes the piston (a regular C CLAMP will not work because the piston is pushed back via TURNING not just pushing). Anyahoo, try to rent/loan the tool.

(yes that is AFTER your problem....)

My problem was - you need to take the c-clip (I seem to remember that small piece) then REMOVE the parking brake cable. Until you do that, you cannot work on the brake.

Enter disaster. My father and I worked on it and were successful on one side with getting the cable off. However, a problem on the second. We put the screwdriver in a way to move the cable (you need to PULL the cable enough to lift OVER the groove - after the c-clip is removed). But instead of moving the cable, it was moving the spring.. and POP -- OFF IT CAME.

The spring is put on at the factory - Ford and a local shop said there was NO WAY they could put it back. Basically without the spring, after applying the parking brake, it will not release properly and will burn against the discs. I have to get underneath to pull it back (simulate the spring) - and that works ok.

I read something about this issue (the cost and difficulties in doing the rear discs) - there appears to be a move back to non-disc rear brakes - back to drums (theory of course is that the rear discs really are not that important - as to the discs in the front and the rear drums are sufficient).

I think our biggest problem was leverage and working underneath with it jacked - versus say on a lift.

Further...
The front were no problem; I changed the rotors on all 4 without problem

Careful when you do the piston (rear) - there is a rubber gasket that can get "squeezed" or "pinched" - so watch it - go slow and be careful.

(part of me says with all this fancy stuff -- it is all back to helping the dealer get more money on repairs - I had a problem with the radiator; the local guy did the work and then the ABS lite came on for no reason after he worked on it; my suspicion was that they didn't connect a cable right and wasn't getting proper ground, but it made me worried going to non-dealers).

my two cents..
Right tools.. that is the difference between success, struggle and failure..