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Bleeding Brakes With ABS - Early EB-on Type

19K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  Aussiblue 
#1 ·
EB2 Falcons had their ABS module (Bendix?) under the LH front guard. These have a bleed nipple for each system/channel and I was wondering if these are bled before or after the wheel calipers. Also, is there any special considerations/procedure?


Note;
The last idiots who did the brakes on my car did not bleed the ABS module (it seems) and on my first ABS 'event' the pedal conveniently went to the floor which was rather shocking! Also, after overhauling the frront calipers on this car I must say you'd be mad just to do the pads.....
 
#2 ·
You should not need to bleed the modulator unless it or the lines connected to it have been replaced (or those nipples opened). To bleed the modulator you need a scan tool to get to get the mudulator solenoids to cycle but there are other ways to do this (but I have forgotten how). I will do some reasearch and get back to you.
 
#3 ·
Oh, I had a go last night and all has turned to soft excrement. When undoing one of the nipples it sheared off flush with the modulator. Now that's going to be fun isn't it????

EDIT:
And on top of all the time etc it's going to take to drill/extract the old one, each new nipple (tiny thing) costs $15. Shoot me now, please.......:dead: :p :dead:
 
#4 ·
AP, feel sorry for ya mate, good luck.

I never touch the ABS module, always bleed form the caliper only, starting from the left rear (furthest away from brake booster), then right rear, then left front and so forth.

I bleed the lines right out, making sure to use at least 600ml of new Dot 4 fluid and keep topping up as I go, never letting the reservoir level below half.

Good luck.

Also, i would let Ford fix it, you can make a big mess!
 
#6 ·
Pete,

Mission for the week, get one of your cars in working order. :p :p :1poke: :1poke: Seems you always get the bad luck.
Hope the ABS brake assy can be repaired.
 
#7 ·
Oh you guys. I am addicted to FF purely because I can rely on great advice and enthusiastic support (cough).

XR Guy:
Is the rear left the longest pipe from master cylinder to caliper? (not always!) Later model ABS modules are self bleeding if what I was told is true.
 
#8 ·
The Ford Factory manual doesn'y help much. It refers you to the instructions that come with the T2100SAMALB kit used with the T2100SAM scan tool. There is a pic with annotations saying the isolation valve solenoid is activated when bleeding the accumulator and the build/decay solenoid is activated when bleeding the modulator sump. I had some info about how to do this with the diagnostic plug but can't lay my hands on it....yet.
 
#9 ·
PS the accumulator bleed screws are on the modulator motor (large cylinder side) side while the sump bleed screws are on the accumulator side (two small cylinder shapes). All solenoids are 12Volts. Pin 49 of the ECU is the rear isolation solenoid, pins 41 and 47 are the solenoids power supply, pin 46 the rear build decay solenoid, pin 45 the front isolation solenoid, pin 43 the front right build/dcay solenoid, pin 42 the front left build/decay solonoid, pin 10 is ground. So if we jump the right pins...
 
#10 ·
I've spent a considerable amount of time trying to get the damn old bleed nipple out with Left Hand drill bit and a screw extractor but I've now lost my nerve because I don't even want to think how much one of these modules is worth. I'm getting an old work mate around who has the right tools!

As for bleeding the module - I think the car is gonna go to Ford dealer......
 
#12 ·
cracka said:
mate......drill bits etc is not the go.....go buy a set of easy outs......don't have to be trade quality..but will do the job and do once and do right...oh and would love to know what a left hand drill bit is!!!
and i wanna know what the hell a set of easy outs is! :eek:o1:
 
#13 ·
Easy outs are BAD news. Bad bad bad. They work like a threaded screw by trying to turn the bolt out, but they screw in and if they bottom out they snap off. In my time I've spent more time removing broken easy outs than broken bolts.

My mate now has his own fastener removal business because he uses the same methods we use on jet engines. He makes a lot of money fixing other peoples stuff ups and that includes those using easy outs that snap off.

A left hand drill bit is used in screw extraction as it places a torque in the loosening direction and makes the situation better - not worse. I had many apprentices who thought I was joking when I sent them to get me a lefty drill bit. I only had to take them over once to show them these things existed!
 
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