the best and only rotors to get are DBA rotors. don't know if they are available in enzed. The rotors on the EA onwards were designed differently to the ealier ones. The bearings were moved closer together and the rotor assembly is lighter, hence it tends to warp easier. Most dealers replace the pads with softer ones to save the rotor. If I had a choice (and lots of money) I would go for the cross drilled rotors. Rotors really only crack under extreme duress, and I have only had experience of the once, but I had bought the car 2nd hand and did not know the circumstances.
The original brakes on the ED XR6 were not very good with fade and smoke pouring off after driving the car hard.
Eventually, the rotors were glazed and too thin to machine.
I installed DBA slotted rotors with Bendix Ultimates up front and Bendix Premiums out the back on standard original discs.
The brakes are now FANTASTIC !
Been on for around 6 months and continue to haul up very, very well.
No fade, no smoking and an excellent pedal feel.
Don't waste your money on cross drilled unless you do track work or unless you just want the looks. I was advised by several people (incl tech support at Bendix) that they will not add any benefits for street use.
Installing slotteds at the rear would be better than the standard and is recommended in relation to balancing out braking performance, although the ED XR works perfectly with the standard discs.
I also used the DBA slotteds on my 1999 AU XR6 VCT with standard XR pads from Ford and achieved a VAST and very noticeable improvement in braking performance particularly with a massive reduction in fade.
I originally installed pads from Race Brakes RB156 (approx $140 per set) when I installed the DBA slotteds and these were great. The local Ford dealer found I had almost no pad left during a service and installed the standard Ford pads - couldn't tell the difference - the slotted discs do make a huge difference.
Discounted the need to look at 4 pot calipers, etc, after that.
The discs are around A$140 each, Ultimates A$75 and Premiums A$30. I did the work myself.
Oh, and don't worry about people advising that the Bendix Ultimates chew out the discs - yes they do - but it is designed to work that way - it is the trade-off for good brakes at a reasonable price (discs should last about 60,000 kms max).
The XR family ---->
Muzza: a XR8 AU seriesIII...bog standard :)
TBH: (the better half) drives an ED XR6 wagon (Mock Dev 4 160rwkw, JMM extractors, 4 electric windows, Ghia door panels in XR trim, rear head & arm rests in XR trim, Momo s/wheel with Cruise, EL thermos, EBGT wheels, etc) things to come soon = EECV upgrade.
Just some brake advice from the industry (which you can feel free to shoot down if you don't believe me - but this comes from good sources).
DBA made brakes for Tickford XRs (hence their reluctance to warp - yay!). Go the vented, slotted rotors as an upgrade - don't bother with the cross-drilled as there is no performance gain, but they look better. You're choice. If you want more performance, you're after even bigger bucks, and new calipers.
Anyone seen the new "kangaroo paw" rotors from DBA? Very good at getting disc heat out of the hub and wheel bearings, but may be over the top for your average hoon. If your serious about braking, this design DOES work - I've seen the evidence.
Secondly, apparently there is a rubber vacuum hose that tends to dry out on EF/ELs after 60000 odd ks. Replacing this line gives better pedal feel and response (if the line is going bad). Doesn't cost much ($<50 apparently - ask a brake shop). Not sure about AU brakes. Sorry.
Hope this info helps EF/EL owners.
As far as pads go, the Bendix Kevlar ones (are they the ultimates?)will kill your rotors if you're thinking about them. Stick to the metal king range. I do, but prefer the feel of the factory pads for general driving (although my front discs do need replacing).
Interesting food for thought everyone ! I have bendix ultimates on all 4 corners of my wagon - and have noticed a slightly more than marginal (is there such thing lol!) difference, but yeah I can tell it's eating through my rotors and dusting is terrible as we all know with the ultimates. A good combination I've been told is Bendix Performax pads with DBA slotted rotors - anyone had any experience with them ? Otherwise, CEBCO do offer a 2 pot caliper, 330 mm rotor with semi metallic brake pads and misc bits to make it fit for $2K.
It seems decent to me, but I would like to know exactly how much better it is than going DBA's - testimonials is what I'm after, as I've already spoken to John from CEBCO, and it's hard to give a 'guesstimate' over the phone if you know what I mean. Anyway, it's all very interesting but I need something that can stop 2 tonnes of wagon lol ! I do rarely go over the posted limit (no, really!) but for peace of mind, I would like much better stopping power - as it could be the difference between a shock to the system and a bastard repair job - we all know how much fun insurance companies can be ;-) Just my 2c
PS, Tickford6 - what do you think of the factory large single piston on the EF/EL's compared to a smaller twin pot caliper - what's the difference ?? I would figure surface area would be relatively similar ? If 4 pots were cheaper, I'd damn well do them no questions asked, but CEBCO's $4K are a bit out of my league at the moment =\
I must agree with the guys above, i run drilled /slotted DBA rotors(got them at a price i couldn't refuse), otherwise i would go for the slotted, i also run Greenstuff Pads, yes thes are like ultimates, in the regards they do wear discs.
they are Kevlar and the dust is hardly there compared to the metal kings i ran for two years.
Dont even try bendix performax, they are shit, full stop and the dust is unbeleivable.
The Cebco upgrade will need at least 16" wheels, they recomend 17", but ive seen them fit inside 16's, not much room.
Originally posted by dcstraight what do you think of the factory large single piston on the EF/EL's compared to a smaller twin pot caliper - what's the difference ?? I would figure surface area would be relatively similar ? If 4 pots were cheaper, I'd damn well do them no questions asked, but CEBCO's $4K are a bit out of my league at the moment =\
The surface area is the same for each of them. My understanding is that the main advantage of using more pistons is that the clamping force over the whole contact area is much greater and more uniform, and therefore your braking is improved. However, I know that in my case, (with just road worthy 16" tyres) the tyre grip is less than the brake grip, and If I ever go for the picks as hard as the brakes would allow, the ABS is bound to kick in. I think in our case (cruisin and occasional racing), reducing fade and getting good bite on the first go is what's important. If so increasing the number of pistons will help in this regard - for sure, but as you know metal pads aren't so good on the first go anyway.
The CEBCO brake package is reasonably good from reports I have heard, but not nearly as good value for money as DBA. Also remember your ABS calibration is important, which limits your options on rotor diameter a little.
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