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Brake Disc Replacement

4K views 17 replies 14 participants last post by  THEONE 
#1 ·
I need to replace the front disc's on my EL, any suggestions on brand & type. Should I go the whole hog & replace the rears as well.

Should I get grooved disc's & if I do will I need to upgrade the pads (10'000 k's old)

Also I've seen adverts for spotted(as opposed to drilled) grooved disc's, does this prevent cracking as claimed.

Any info/advice would be appreciated.

Cheers:s5
 
#2 ·
disc rotor replacement

the best and only rotors to get are DBA rotors. don't know if they are available in enzed. The rotors on the EA onwards were designed differently to the ealier ones. The bearings were moved closer together and the rotor assembly is lighter, hence it tends to warp easier. Most dealers replace the pads with softer ones to save the rotor. If I had a choice (and lots of money) I would go for the cross drilled rotors. Rotors really only crack under extreme duress, and I have only had experience of the once, but I had bought the car 2nd hand and did not know the circumstances.
 
#4 ·
Or better still www.cebcobrakes.com.au Or do a search on brakes I.E browser..

Ph 1300 55 66 40 Fax 61 3 9568 2840.. from N.Z..

Top brakes for around $2k..Twin to four piston. With big
rotors..
 
#5 ·
Brakes Suggestion

The original brakes on the ED XR6 were not very good with fade and smoke pouring off after driving the car hard.
Eventually, the rotors were glazed and too thin to machine.

I installed DBA slotted rotors with Bendix Ultimates up front and Bendix Premiums out the back on standard original discs.

The brakes are now FANTASTIC !

Been on for around 6 months and continue to haul up very, very well.
No fade, no smoking and an excellent pedal feel.

Don't waste your money on cross drilled unless you do track work or unless you just want the looks. I was advised by several people (incl tech support at Bendix) that they will not add any benefits for street use.

Installing slotteds at the rear would be better than the standard and is recommended in relation to balancing out braking performance, although the ED XR works perfectly with the standard discs.

I also used the DBA slotteds on my 1999 AU XR6 VCT with standard XR pads from Ford and achieved a VAST and very noticeable improvement in braking performance particularly with a massive reduction in fade.
I originally installed pads from Race Brakes RB156 (approx $140 per set) when I installed the DBA slotteds and these were great. The local Ford dealer found I had almost no pad left during a service and installed the standard Ford pads - couldn't tell the difference - the slotted discs do make a huge difference.

Discounted the need to look at 4 pot calipers, etc, after that.

The discs are around A$140 each, Ultimates A$75 and Premiums A$30. I did the work myself.

Oh, and don't worry about people advising that the Bendix Ultimates chew out the discs - yes they do - but it is designed to work that way - it is the trade-off for good brakes at a reasonable price (discs should last about 60,000 kms max).
 
#7 ·
Just some brake advice from the industry (which you can feel free to shoot down if you don't believe me - but this comes from good sources).

DBA made brakes for Tickford XRs (hence their reluctance to warp - yay!). Go the vented, slotted rotors as an upgrade - don't bother with the cross-drilled as there is no performance gain, but they look better. You're choice. If you want more performance, you're after even bigger bucks, and new calipers.
Anyone seen the new "kangaroo paw" rotors from DBA? Very good at getting disc heat out of the hub and wheel bearings, but may be over the top for your average hoon. If your serious about braking, this design DOES work - I've seen the evidence.

Secondly, apparently there is a rubber vacuum hose that tends to dry out on EF/ELs after 60000 odd ks. Replacing this line gives better pedal feel and response (if the line is going bad). Doesn't cost much ($<50 apparently - ask a brake shop). Not sure about AU brakes. Sorry.

Hope this info helps EF/EL owners.

As far as pads go, the Bendix Kevlar ones (are they the ultimates?)will kill your rotors if you're thinking about them. Stick to the metal king range. I do, but prefer the feel of the factory pads for general driving (although my front discs do need replacing).

Cheers.
 
#8 ·
Interesting food for thought everyone ! I have bendix ultimates on all 4 corners of my wagon - and have noticed a slightly more than marginal (is there such thing lol!) difference, but yeah I can tell it's eating through my rotors and dusting is terrible as we all know with the ultimates. A good combination I've been told is Bendix Performax pads with DBA slotted rotors - anyone had any experience with them ? Otherwise, CEBCO do offer a 2 pot caliper, 330 mm rotor with semi metallic brake pads and misc bits to make it fit for $2K.

It seems decent to me, but I would like to know exactly how much better it is than going DBA's - testimonials is what I'm after, as I've already spoken to John from CEBCO, and it's hard to give a 'guesstimate' over the phone if you know what I mean. Anyway, it's all very interesting but I need something that can stop 2 tonnes of wagon lol ! I do rarely go over the posted limit (no, really!) but for peace of mind, I would like much better stopping power - as it could be the difference between a shock to the system and a bastard repair job - we all know how much fun insurance companies can be ;-) Just my 2c

Cheers,
Steve

PS, Tickford6 - what do you think of the factory large single piston on the EF/EL's compared to a smaller twin pot caliper - what's the difference ?? I would figure surface area would be relatively similar ? If 4 pots were cheaper, I'd damn well do them no questions asked, but CEBCO's $4K are a bit out of my league at the moment =\
 
#9 ·
HI ALL

I must agree with the guys above, i run drilled /slotted DBA rotors(got them at a price i couldn't refuse), otherwise i would go for the slotted, i also run Greenstuff Pads, yes thes are like ultimates, in the regards they do wear discs.

they are Kevlar and the dust is hardly there compared to the metal kings i ran for two years.
Dont even try bendix performax, they are shit, full stop and the dust is unbeleivable.

The Cebco upgrade will need at least 16" wheels, they recomend 17", but ive seen them fit inside 16's, not much room.

Cheers
Kerry
 
#10 ·
calipers and pistons

dcstraight said:
what do you think of the factory large single piston on the EF/EL's compared to a smaller twin pot caliper - what's the difference ?? I would figure surface area would be relatively similar ? If 4 pots were cheaper, I'd damn well do them no questions asked, but CEBCO's $4K are a bit out of my league at the moment =\
The surface area is the same for each of them. My understanding is that the main advantage of using more pistons is that the clamping force over the whole contact area is much greater and more uniform, and therefore your braking is improved. However, I know that in my case, (with just road worthy 16" tyres) the tyre grip is less than the brake grip, and If I ever go for the picks as hard as the brakes would allow, the ABS is bound to kick in. I think in our case (cruisin and occasional racing), reducing fade and getting good bite on the first go is what's important. If so increasing the number of pistons will help in this regard - for sure, but as you know metal pads aren't so good on the first go anyway.

The CEBCO brake package is reasonably good from reports I have heard, but not nearly as good value for money as DBA. Also remember your ABS calibration is important, which limits your options on rotor diameter a little.

Hope that helps a bit.

JT
 
#12 ·
dcstraight said:
A good combination I've been told is Bendix Performax pads with DBA slotted rotors - anyone had any experience with them ?
Cheers,
Steve
Yep that's what I changed to, I went from the standard setup and i'm very happy with it. I haven't yet done the rears but they'll be done soon. At first they felt a little vague but now they've bedded in nicely and the car pulls up straight as a die with very little noise. Oh the low dust is also a bonus.

Mine's also a manual so I use the gearbox to help slow the car, I guess it's how you drive too, I would imagine the Ultimates would be a better option if you're a brutal braker.

Anyway I'll catch yah later

Paul B
XR6WGN
 
#13 ·
Cebco Brakes

I have just fitted the Cebco twin piston brake package to my EF XR with the original 16'' Tickford rims.
They are the same 326MM discs as fitted on the EL GT along with the Mustang twin piston caliper. Also using Bendix Ultima pads. They are fantastic. No brake fade noticed at all on the last track day.
I used to run the DBA slotted rotors with Bendix Ultima pads.
Had trouble with brake fade, warping rotors etc. In the long run the Cebco brake package will be of better value.
 
#14 ·
Everyone is on the right track with slotted only rotors , cross drilled are not recommended for the race track. The main purpose of the slots is to keep the pad surface clean and help remove waste gasses from the surface of the pad.
Has anyone tried the new Bendix Advance pads yet ? Even though I have just fitted Ultimates to my EF11 , I am being given some Advance pads this week to trial. Shall keep you informed over the next few days
 
#16 ·
EL XR6 said:


Also I've seen adverts for spotted(as opposed to drilled) grooved disc's, does this prevent cracking as claimed.

Any info/advice would be appreciated.

Cheers:s5
I haven't heard about spotted discs. I assume that they are a cheap way of making drilled discs. I guess the theory is that they deglaze the pads, but without holes, I can't really see how they would keep the disc cooler to prevent cracking. The case would be worse if these are cast depressions, as this would lead to thinner material which would be less heat stable than the surrounding thick material. If they are pressed depresions, then maybe they work, but it is not something that the brake industry seems to be raving about, so I would steer clear.

The DBA slotted ones are much more effective at deglazing than drilled ones and clearly seem to do the job nicely (from opinions posted here). You can even go the drilled and slotted ones for extra looks (but don't expect a performance increase). I think the testimonials of everyone here speak for themselves. DBA or CEBCO - if you have the money :)

JT
 
#17 ·
What is the go with cracking. The $3500 option grooved tickford red caliper fronts on my 01 TE50 are cracked all over the place and worn down to what is probably below safe thickness after only 13000Km (i drive very hard). Good thing im trading it for my 02 which arrives next week with Brembos.Braking is good but who wants to replace pads and rotors every 13000km.

PS I laughed at the comments on EB brakes smoking and being not very good.What an understatement. i rented a fairmont and after a week the Pads on the nearly new car were shot.I pulled up on the last occasion to see smoke not just coming out of the front mags in great volume but shooting out horizontally as some sort of chemical reaction/explosion was going on. They had obviously got to dome super heated temperature where the pad was consuming itself in a fast reaction.I returned the car to Hertz and they wouldnt rent me another (Iwent to another office). My Ef was much much better as they improved them out of sight in that model.
 
#18 ·
new rotors

i just got DBA slotted all four corners on my eb ll s pack ,with bendix perforomax pads fitted and a bearings regreased for $765.they havn't worn in yet but they look good.i'll give you an update when they have. !!!

the THEONE
 
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