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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 02-14-05, 02:12 AM Thread Starter
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Brake help

Does anybody know of a good brake website? or suggest something?

I have a new master cylinder,reco booster,calipers,wheel cylinders etc(all the original stuff).

Problems are : When we crack the bleed nipples on the master cylinder, fluid only runs out of the front nipple. Not a single drop comes out of the rear nipple even when the peddle is pumped.

We bled one side of the rear(drums) with normal pedal operation. When doing the other side rear, the pedal wouldn't drop when the bleed nipple was cracked and same for the front.

Whilst pumping the pedal it moved about 2inches down with no resistance, then it came to a sudden and rock hard stop.

I am a long way from an expert but does it sound like there is a booster or master cylinder adjustment needed to be done?


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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 02-14-05, 12:38 PM
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Re: Brake help

Some times with a new master cylinder you can have trouble getting the air out of it. Until this has occurred they will not push fluid out properly to the rest of the system. Apart from this I assume all bleed screws are new and not blocked. Check the steel tubing to make sure there are no sections squashed or blocked internally (ie blow through them when disconnected).

The master cylinder acting like that is due to the two stage design ie front and rear. I'm guessing one stage has air in it still so it collapses until it acts upon the second part.

In relation to the booster this does not affect the brake pedal to master cylinder mechanical connection at all. It only assists the foot action when the motor is producing vaccum. You can still stop car without it but will need to push harder.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 02-14-05, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Brake help

How do I fix the master cylinder from being collapsed ?

What ever I have will never be enough !
Fear is only Fear itself !

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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 02-15-05, 01:51 AM
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Re: Brake help

Best way is to have master on the bench(leave it in car though). Visit wrecker and cut flared brake line from another car. You want 4-5" pipe from the flare. Screw one in each outlet and bend it around so it exits back into the reservoir. Then you can fill the unit and actuate it until all air is expelled and it pumps properly through both front and rear circuits. Then reattach brake lines and bleed as normal.
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