Bodezafa

I had some brake problems on my 99 Mustang GT Vert. LR and LF pads wore all the way down while the Right side was fine. I ordered new ceramic pads and rotors all the way around and figured I would paint the calipers while I had it apart. The LR caliper was seized. I couldnt get it to twist back in. Even rented the tool from advanced auto parts to try to get the piston back in but the tool wouldnt work. I replaced the caliper and bled it with no issues. Didnt have any problems with any other caliper. I replaced all the hardware on the rest of the calipers for good measure. Put it all back together drove it around and smelled somethin funny. Figured it was just the coating on the rotors wearing off. I started to see a bunch of brake dust on the wheels, the LF had a lot more than the rest and I noticed it was VERY hot after driving. I wanted to test it so I drove around town a little and down shifted instead of braking as much as possible. After I got home the the LF rotor was too hot to touch. The RF rotor was warm but I could touch it. I figured that was proof that the pads were sticking. I replaced the LF caliper and the rubber brake line. Bled the caliper and its all back together. After I bled the caliper I was not able to turn the rotor by hand after the brake pedal was released. I had to work the caliper right to left and do the same with the rotor before I was able to turn the rotor. Is this normal? Im getting a little frustrated with this brake job.
I did have a slight issue when replacing the brake line. The brake line came with 2 copper washers. I only seen noticed one while attaching the brake line to the caliper. Tightened it all down and it leaked while bleeding. I couldnt figure out the issue... then I saw the other washer. So I put that on also. Now the brake hose bolt went through 2 washers then the block on the brake line then into the caliper. Still leaked when I tried to bleed the caliper. It leaked right from the block at the caliper.. Then I took one washer off, put it between the block and the caliper and then it stopped leaking and I was able to bleed the caliper. I dont think this is how it should be...but its working. Could the washer setup be the reason why I cant turn the rotor by hand? Could it be something else? or is it normal?
Thanks in advance for any input.

Bert

There should be one washer on each side of the hose banjo fitting. That wouldn't cause the brakes to drag. There has to be someting else wrong. Maybe the master cylinder isn't releasing. Try loosening the lines one at a time until the fluid doesn't release the brake.

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Bert

Bodezafa

Thanks for the reply Bert. I do have one on each side of the banjo fitting. Thanks for that. At least I I have that right so far
Im not sure what you mean by "loosening the lines one at a time until the fluid doesn't release the brake." At the master cylinder, loosen the lines to see it if the caliper releases?

Bert

When you apply the brake and it stays engaged, loosen the lines at the junctions from the banjo fitting toward the master cyl, and it should let you know where it's holding the pressure.

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Bert

Bodezafa

I did crack open the bleeder to try to release some pressure thinking that might help. some fluid came out but the rotor still wouldnt turn. I took the caliper off and the rotor turns no problem.

Bert

That would show that it has to be the caliper or mounting.

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Bert

Bodezafa

hummm. I just got that caliper from autozone

Bert

If opening the line doesn't release the brake, the caliper piston would probably be hanging up since it moves freely when mounted.

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Bert

Bodezafa

I have the car on jack stands all the way around now. The RF wheel is VERY hard to turn. The 2 back wheels have some drag but I can turn them with one hand. If I give it the old wheel of fortune spin it wont go around 1 time. Is that too much drag for the rear?

Bert

The rears are turning more than just the wheel. That sounds normal to me.

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Bert