I think I have a problem with the brakes in my NC (has ABS) ...when you push the pedal a few times on the spot while the car is runing, the pedal is all spongy and it goes so far back that it hits the floor same happens when driving if you use it alot in a short period of time....
Does anyone know what could be wrong? There is fluid in the system...it is filled way above max level...cold that have anything to do with it? Or maybe air in the system?
When your foot is on the brakes and you start the engine does the brake pedal go down alittle ?? If not I'd suspect brake booster..
Mind you I'd bleed all the brakes first, good excuse to replace with nice new fluid.Which should be done every year!!! Everyone does that ha???
Check the flex lines[hoses] to your calipers they may be ballooning out, check for damage.
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The booster applies a vacuum assist to the pedal - a faulty booster will normally manifest itself as non-responsive brakes - not a spongy pedal . If your brakes are spongy usually you have air in the system somewhere. Bleeding the brakes at the calipers will not help if there's air in the master cylinder - in that case you must bleed the master cylinder first. When bleeding the brakes at the caliper work from the furthest brake from the master cylinder back. Also remember you should CHANGE the fluid regularly - I do mine 2 yearly - because brake fluid absorbs water - which in the situation of hot brakes can cause the water to turn to steam & vapour-lock the brakes on. The water also causes corrosion & therefore seized pistions etc.
If there is fluid loss you may need to kit or replace the master cylinder. But don't mistake fliud loss for the normal fall of fluid in the reservoir that comes with the wearing of the brakes. Thats exactly why there is a reservior. A common sign of ACTUAL fluid loss is the loss of paint on the booster (brake fluid is an excellent paint remover - wash off with water if you spill it somewhere.
I had sim problem with NA brakes 2 weeks ago,if you are mechanical minded do this. Pull wheels of and check pads,calipers disc & lines for wear & leaks,If happy check Power Booster operation.Check for leak where Master cylinder connects to Booster also where brake lines connect to Master.Mine was leaking where Master joins Booster,Solution $36 seal kit for Master cylinder from Brake Place,this can double depending where you go.I took a chance & got the kit before pulling the Master to bits.I have a digital camera and as this was the first time that I did Master reco I took photos of pull a part process as it is a bitch when you put stuff back together and have a bit left over at the end.Helps If you have a Manual if not brake place should copy the pages you need,I hope it is a cheap fix like mine,as if the Master Piston bore is no good then it is a bit more pricy for reco one unless wreckers can help,try to inspect one on a car that is still bolted to the Booster,no leaks etc if getting from wreckers and make sure that the numbers are the same,Located on front of Master as 6 & 8 CYL are different same goes for Booster.Also check plastic spacer on pedal Booster rod.
Also make sure that you didn't actually top up the brake with powersteering fluid. Will do pretty much the same thing but root all your internal rubbers to do with the cylinder and callipers. Time then for a full rekit of the brake system.
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