I am about to undergo changing the brake pads all round on my EB2 which I bought off my Mum. (It has about 50km left until it's metal to metal.)
Someone told me you need a special tool to change them. Is this true? Any help would be great.
For the front no real special tools needed.
The pistons need to be pushed in and a G clamp or similar is suitable.
The rears do need the special tool.
The tool is used with a 1/2" ratchet to screw in the pistons. Drivers side screws anti-clockwise and passenger side screws in clockwise.
Best to go to an auto shop and buy the correct tool. There are about 4 different ones and there is a multiple version available.
Oh, and don't forget to watch the fluid reservoir so it doesn't overflow when the pistons are pushed or screwed back in.
Important --->
Don't forget to machine the disks otherwise the brakes will not work very well with new pads.
for the rear you undo the 12 (or 13? i dont remember) millimeter bolt that retains the handbrake lever and remove the lever.
a black rubber seal will probably fall out. no worries, refit when you re-assemble. get a small shifter and rotate the bit sticking out of the rear of the caliper inwards a little, about a turn i think, screw it down to about half the height it was at the start. i think its differnt left to right. now you can push the piston back the same as the front ones. if it wont go back, rotate the bit at the back more in or out until it does. dont go too far with the rotation though you might explode the caliper or something.
replace the pads and bolt the caliper onto the car. after eveything is ok, then you rotate the bit at the back to the correct position to refit the handbrake arm.
remember to pump the pedal slowly a lot of times when you are done, BEFORE you start the car, that way you will have brakes before you drive it, nothing worse than soing a set of pads, backing out of the driveway and careening out onto the road because the pedal went straight to the floor!!! and only press the pedal about 1/2 way down when you are pumping it, to avoid damage to the mater cylinder.
I did my EB brakes a month ago. The fronts were easy, using the g-cramp. Took about 20 minutes per side. The rears were a real pain. You undo the handbrake lever, then remove the caliper, then screw the piston. Different rotation directions for each side. I used a set of vice grips to turn it 1/8 of a turn at a time, being very careful not to damage the piston on any part that does into the caliper bore. Be really careful to always turn the piston in the correct direction. It seems like about 20 - 30 turns the correct way will re-set the piston to the right level. But 1/4 turn the wrong way will re-set the piston to where you started from. You can guess how I found this out. I spent almost 3 hours on the rears, and would go to a brake shop next time to get them done.
Rollin - you da man!!! Well done - excellent method - it sounds like your way would be even better than using a tool on the piston because it would mean not turning the piston inside the protective boot - which was my big concern when I had to do it - I'm still not sure the damned thing didn't end up tearing a little bit. Huge thanks in advance for next time I do it :bowd:
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