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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-19-03, 12:29 AM Thread Starter
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Changing Pads on a AU III

Was helping a friend today change pads on his AU III, ( I have changed a lot of pads over the years, did the drivers side no probs.
Got to the Passanger side, and mate, no mater what we have tried, the two bolts holding the Calipers to the strut assembly wont losen. Looked on the back of the bolt, there is no "L" on them, so I gather they are not left Hand thread, but boy are they done up tight. Any advise on how to losen them ( and just clarify that they are not left hand thread)
As I siad I have changed pads heaps of times, and never ever had this prob. The Drivers side bolts were tight, but a little gentle persuasion and the were loose.
Makes for a frustrating day
If any one has any advise, we would apreciate it


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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-19-03, 02:13 AM
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Re: Changing Pads on a AU III

Nothing in the workshop manual that might provide a clue I'm sorry to say.
Thread looks to be normal RH.

Cheers
Russ
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-19-03, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Changing Pads on a AU III

thanks anyway Russ, maybe i need to eat more weet bix

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-19-03, 10:04 PM
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Re: Changing Pads on a AU III

Yep TS50 more weeties mate.

I did mine a couple of months back and they are the tightest I have ever experienced.
Upon having to struggle all the way to last bit of thread I noticed a good portion of dried up yellow liquid I suppose similar to Loctite.
Great for safety obviously and like you I have done plenty of pad changes etc.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-20-03, 05:39 AM
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Re: Changing Pads on a AU III

Use a big 15mm (I think) spanner and a mini sledge hammer - worked for me.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-20-03, 06:13 AM
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Re: Changing Pads on a AU III

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluedriver
Yep TS50 more weeties mate.

I did mine a couple of months back and they are the tightest I have ever experienced.
Upon having to struggle all the way to last bit of thread I noticed a good portion of dried up yellow liquid I suppose similar to Loctite.
Great for safety obviously and like you I have done plenty of pad changes etc.
To quote the workshop manual:

NOTE: Old bolts must not be re-used, as they are vital safety components that have a micro encapsulated adhesive on the bolt thread.

Cheers
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-20-03, 03:54 PM
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Re: Changing Pads on a AU III

This tip comes in handy russ when i need to change my pads. I would have used the same bolt. Is it the same for the Series 1 Au's or not.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-20-03, 07:56 PM
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Re: Changing Pads on a AU III

I used the same bolts, and just cleaned them up with a wire brush and then applied locktite to them. Every time I go to undo them is just as hard as the first time.

Don't believe everything you read in a manual - if I did then I would still be trying to work out "Never undoes widget device close head". This was in an old instruction manual I found - translation is "Never undo this bolt" LOL.

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-27-03, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Changing Pads on a AU III

Quote:
Originally Posted by JC
I used the same bolts, and just cleaned them up with a wire brush and then applied locktite to them. Every time I go to undo them is just as hard as the first time.
was talking to a couple of the senior service guys at my local dealership, they never change the bolts, just clean them and locktite them.

Thanks guys, I just needed to get a newer 15 mm socket, old one was too sloppy on bolt and i was too worried about wrecking the head.

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-28-03, 12:13 AM
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Re: Changing Pads on a AU III

Loctite is the go, the Do Not Re-use, sounds like a money maker.
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