Youll need a special brake caliper tool to do it, it will look like this
__________________
1993 ED XR6 M5 (1 of 329)
Polynesian Green
Turbo on the way!!
1993 EBII Fairmont (Now wrecking, PM if you want any parts)
1988 Nissan R31 Skyline
__________________ 91' EA II Sapphire
JMM DEV1, MPFI, Lowered King Springs, Monroe Shocks, 16" ROH Rims,CD Player, Kenwood Speakers.
Picutures HERE SOLD
ABW make a round one and I thought it was around $20 and it works better than the cube. However the $12 cube one works really well for removing the timing chain tensioner reatiner on the I6 engine. On special tools I see Marlows now carry a $25 Ampro tooll for holding the fan on both the 6 and V8 Fords.
If yer piston is not worn on the lip edges, you can use a flat bladed screwdriver like i did, wedge it between the 2 grooves but
only if you cant get that tool. Its a pain in the bum! I also used a set of BIG pliers to grip and turn the lip of the piston, which also worked well..
Brent
__________________
EB1 3.9L MPI Falcon Wagon with converted T5 / Pacemaker & 2.5" Redback sports exhaust / 2" lowered blocks at the rear, Kings lows up front / ED Tickford Head and Cam / K&N panel filter with XH intake Snorkel / Full EL Fairmont interior with woodgrain
89 EA1 3.9L TBI Falcon Sedan with 3 speed auto / currently being upgraded...
you can simply screw the hand brake connection (where the handbrake bracket bolts on) inwards and the push the piston in till it sticks out again, continue this until the piston is far enough in. Make sure you keep the piston straight though as it is hard to turn without the special tool talked about above (and you wouldn't be using this technique if ya had one
You can't use the square tool on the ford calipers, it's not big enough to sit over the entire piston and all you'll do is wreck the tool and get nowhere. The specific falcon rear caliper tool is $36 from repco and will do the job perfect, just be aware that not all stores stock it, it may need to be ordered in, I had to get mine from the repco warehouse which isnt far from me.
Using pliers or multigrips is pointless aswell, you also have to push the piston in while turning it. And make sure you lubricate the seals with brake fluid to prevent them tearing, the only thing stopping ur brake fluid reaching the air is that seal, keep it in one piece at all costs.
__________________ Ed Phat Drift Damaged Cobalt Blue 1994 EF XR8 5 spd
Fully optioned - Sunroof, cruise, body kit
Stock as a Rock for the moment
Ed, maybe pointless for you buddy, but thats how i did mine and it worked well...
Brent
__________________
EB1 3.9L MPI Falcon Wagon with converted T5 / Pacemaker & 2.5" Redback sports exhaust / 2" lowered blocks at the rear, Kings lows up front / ED Tickford Head and Cam / K&N panel filter with XH intake Snorkel / Full EL Fairmont interior with woodgrain
89 EA1 3.9L TBI Falcon Sedan with 3 speed auto / currently being upgraded...
undo the spring from the handbrake lever (at the caliper)
undo the cable from the lever
undo the 13mm bolt from the back of the caliper
remove the handbrake lever
you will see a rubber seal and in the middle is a bolthole but with two flat edges - get an adgustable spanner and turn this carefully to find out wich direction will pull the piston back, then just wind it in - EASY
remember to put the ruber seal back in though.
__________________
Slick, Quick and Fulliii SIK!!!
Proud TQE Operator
197.4hp at the wheels, 14.505@152.46km/h Tuning in progress... *CLICK TO SEE MY XR6*
I can get new Genuine Holden/Ford/Audi/Land Rover/Honda parts cheap, PM me!
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.