Hey just found these on ebay they aparently have them in stock full time so should be good (depending on quality though) but, for $140 cant go too wrong! You could always apgrade the bar later on!
Anyway have a gander I've just got one on order only no car to plonk it onto till it's finished! http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2482159270
Cheers
Nev
no Idea I was thinking the same myself with the intake of the EL's like I had on my Ef previously I was wondering how the hell it'd clear it?
But I'm getting it for my EA now so who cares?? (joke)
I asked them about clearance of the ef's & he fired back an email telling me they fit!
How the hell??
I think they might just be for the EA-ED but who knows?
Anyone out there got one on an EA-ED & or a EF-EL to take a pic of to compare?
Anyway I'll try to find out more soon with mine just gotta find an EF owner nearby to me now to see if my one fits once it arrives!
Cheers
Nev
Sorry I disagree in the average car your shock towers under load eg: turning whilst braking etc.. can move an average of 10mm idependantly from each other!
I made up one for my brothers 71 vw s bug that runs a 2.0ltr porsche motor & the difference in every day driving was certainly noticable! braking etc too!
Anything you can do to prolong tyre life & give you more control in any situation has to be seriously looked at, end of story!
Cheers
Nev
I wanted one of these a while ago, but was told that by not alowing the towers to flex, it places more strain on other components in the body/suspension leading to possible failures. However on the flipside i've also been told that it can greatly improve the handling characteristics of a car and gives a massive difference in cornering stability. Oh well, let us know how it goes
the EA-ED's have a habit of stress fracturing/cracking between the 4 nuts on the inside of the shock tower.. For that price it couldnt hurt.. They do 'tighten' up the feel on the front end alot and equalise the stress across the two towers
at the top yes but look on the INSIDE of the tower, or inner guard if you'd rather call it that , 4 large nuts hold the upper arm on... The metal fatigues with age/use and will crack between the nuts.. I weld 5 mm flat bar across the holes and re-bolt it but using the strut brace would be a cheap improvement to help evenly distribute and reduce the load on that steel
My friend with his au race ute made one up as well. I guess when you do 160 over rough terrain and get the car 3ft in the air it would need it. i can understand why HSV's need one being flimsey and all
*UPDATE* aparently they stuffed up with the listing price they are in fact a buy it now price of $140 not the $112 that was listed (aparently thats the price of the dunnydores ones!)
Anyway for $140 it's still a bargain!
As for thickness I'll let ya know as mine arrives on weds / thurs next week!!
Personally, I'd just go for EL XR sway bars. You could probably get front and rears for that price from the wrecker (but come on, how hard is it to stuff a 27mm metal bar?), without the oversteer factor of modding the front and not the rear. Granted, you still get stress on the shock towers.
And suspension mods like this do make a difference. I've got EF sway bars in mine (2mm thicker on the front and 1mm thicker on the rear) and I noticed it right away.
Hey mate what the F@#k am I a message service?? I put the link to let people know that their around & resonably priced!
Got a question go to the page & hit ask seller a question! failing that send em a email yourself the guy I've been talking to is named Cam, htbperformance@iprimus.com.au
psycho chicken said:
Personally, I'd just go for EL XR sway bars. You could probably get front and rears for that price from the wrecker (but come on, how hard is it to stuff a 27mm metal bar?), without the oversteer factor of modding the front and not the rear. Granted, you still get stress on the shock towers.
And suspension mods like this do make a difference. I've got EF sway bars in mine (2mm thicker on the front and 1mm thicker on the rear) and I noticed it right away.
Yeah your right but, I'd be inclined & will be incorperating both by having the EF sway bars + the shock tower support + superlows + a k-mac ratchet camber kit + 17's = f@#king great handling!!! but your right no matter what sway bars you still wont take away the stress on the towers without a support bar!
Personally you haven't got great handling till you remove the weakness in the towers as you will only increase stress on them with thicker sway bars (body has to transfer the load somewhere!)
grab one plonk it on & then tell me about the handling difference!
(note: not intended to flame!)
Cheers
Nev
lol mate, I wasn't serious about it, sarcasm doesn't show on the net that well hey.
htb performance, IIRC they have good prices on slotted rotors too, that's where I'll be getting them from soon.
And I'd put a strut brace on, but the intake manifold gets in the way. EF sway bars and lows are good enough for now. Camber kit soon, but I think the camber I have now is good.
lol mate, I wasn't serious about it, sarcasm doesn't show on the net that well hey.
htb performance, IIRC they have good prices on slotted rotors too, that's where I'll be getting them from soon.
And I'd put a strut brace on, but the intake manifold gets in the way. EF sway bars and lows are good enough for now. Camber kit soon, but I think the camber I have now is good.
Nah man thats cool dont sweat it, I'm just naturally defensive (old habbits die hard etc...) anyway your in melb their in moorabbin, whats the chance of you dropping around to see if they will fit if not at least we'll know for sure etc...
Failing that you could always make one up that runs to the firewall with reinforcment then off to the other tower with a cross brace as far forward as you could go! It wouldn't be as strong but.. it'd work!
ps: whats the camber you've got it'd have to be close to 2.5 - 3 degrees negative with superlows with no camber kit!!
Shit!!!!
I only have lows, not superlows. But the camber is visible, probably somewhere between 2 and 2.5 degrees I spose, I'll chuck it on the wheel alignment machine someday to check.
FoMoCo4eva - What do you mean by upper & lower camber kit? A camber kit normally goes in the upper wishbones. If there is shims in both the upper and lower wishbones and you still have too much negative camber, take some shims out of the bottom.
How much were the rotors for them?
After the smell of my brakes yesterday, they need machining anyway so may aswell upgrade
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