So after letting my 1.5 inch drop springs settle, and replacing the front right outer tie rod arm, I went for another alignment so my new tire's will stay fairly new. Is this a good alignment, or do I need to find another alignment shop?
Thanks for the help guys. I know a little about alignments, but not enough to say my tire's won't wear.
Okay, thanks JWKO. I just wanted to be sure, over the last 2 years I've had this car, every year I've had to buy tire's, So hopefully with a new suspension and a perfect alignment, my tire's will survive longer then a year.
This is what they show as allowed specs. The shops can change the allowed specs to show what they want. You almost at maximum negative camber in the rear. If the springs sag much more, it'll be to far negative. They are in spec right now. Where I worked, we'd adjust to get close to positive side of camber spec, so as things settle, they'd still be in spec.
Sedan/Coupe exc/SVT
Primary Wheel Alignment Specifications
Left Side FRONT Right Side
CASTER 3.00° ± 1.00°
Cross Caster: 0.00° ± 1.00°
CAMBER -0.56° ± 1.25°
Cross Camber: 0.00° ± 1.25°
TOTAL TOE
0.00° ± 0.20°
0.00" ± 0.10"
REAR CAMBER -1.00° ± 1.25° each side
TOTAL TOE
0.50° ± 0.20°
0.25" ± 0.10"
Thrust Angle: 0.00º ( ± tol. not specified)
I know too much camber is bad, but isn't toe what usually kills tire's?
And doesn't a car usually have the toe set so when your looking at it stopped it looks like it is pointing inward, but when you start moving forward it goes right into where it should?
Improper toe settings are the bigest killer of tires. Camber is the tires in or out at the top. Positive camber is the tire slightly out at the top so when bumps are hit and the springs sag some, the tire will go in at the top. The handling is mostly felt by caster. That's what brings the wheels back to straight ahead. The camber being off doesn't wear the tires like toe problems but there are specs where they should be for the proper geometry. You won't get tire wear where they're set now. Throw some weight in the rear hatch area and the camber will be a little too negative but you won't notice abnormal wear.
Okay, thanks guys, looks like I should really get those rear camber bolts in to help with that, and go for a another alignment, but I will probly want to find a place that has higher experience with lowered cars.
The adjustments they did were what most shops would do. The shop I worked at, stressed to get the settings that lasted the longest. They charge a little more but are known for quality work.
^That's is what I need to find around here, I have had two over the phone recommendations for this place near me, saying they do race cars, lowered VW's, and raised trucks.
But I look over a few reviews online, and I find a couple people saying, they charge too much($85HR), and that they are con-artist, and their work is poor.
So IDK what to believe, now a days word of mouth is still good, but sometimes controversial to what the internet says.
You know, all I want is someone that I can give my money to for this one thing, and be happy and come back all the time, and not have one dough that it was done wrong or anything.
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