brenx

Anyone know a good setup for these?

What is happening to me is the leaf spring is allowing the diff to lift the nose of the diff up. Which gives me while @ WOT (wide open throttle) an absolutely shocking pinion angle. This results in universal failure.

My current options are:

A $1000 set of caltracs which will solve the issues. Problem is I haven't got $1000 to buy them. Not quite legal for road car use either

So I am looking for other possible ways to solve the problem. When the $ comes in I'll buy a set of caltracs. As I've got more mods planned which will increase load on the springs.

Brenden

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XB Fairmont (street car) 11.07@123.02mph.

philstoj

why dont you try metal shims to change the angle of the diff, between the pads and the leaf springs?

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Terrorising a crap driver near you!

brenx

What is happening is:

The diff is twisting under power is causing it to nose up (almost hit the floor), thats about 4-5" of twist. It has hit the bump stop mounted to the floor on occasions. Nothing holds the diff in but the U-bolts on the springs.

I can angle the diff down without issues but I can't put more than 1-3.5 degrees on it. In terms of mm thats less than 10mm. Otherwise I'll be destroying even more unis. That should be more than enough anyway.

What I need to happen is stop leaf spring flex/twist which I wished pinion angle would help with but it won't.

I've got lowering blocks too which makes if fun to set pinion angles

Any ideas on suspension places that are willing to have a play with it would be good too.

I had Keysborough diffs set the pinion angle on the last chassis. All they did was cut down my lowering blocks on an angle which set the pinion angle but raised the car back to very close stock height. I don't want to go there again as I didn't buy the parts to lower it, so someone can wreck my lowering blocks and raise it again.

Any idea's on known setups?

Brenden

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XB Fairmont (street car) 11.07@123.02mph.

smally351

I have heard of a fix for probs like you are having. Clamping the front of each leaf to the one above it, using the same c shaped clamps that are already there in one or two places, and taking the ones off the back is said to help.

Soxx

Fit a set of radius rods from a GT.
They might be hard to find, though they are easy enough to make.

RIck.

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4L I6, naturally aspirated producing 173.5rwkw.
14.410 @ 96.49mph with street radials.
What's that?..... Did I hear you say TQE power?

brenx

Yup, I've seen them. Someone here was selling them but they don't fit an XC disc rearend without fouling. I took a look @ a mates on his XA GT. They may not clear my 1/2" fuel line either?

Brenden

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XB Fairmont (street car) 11.07@123.02mph.

ch7472

Brenden the other way is to fit a set of slaper bars as a temp fix i had the same problem now when i race i fit the slaper bars or tramp rodsas some call them and the problem is almost gone as i no longer have unis braking every time i take the car out.

brenx

Yup, I know where I can possibly borrow a set of those. I'll possibly try them @ Heathcote on the 20th of Nov.

Brenden

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XB Fairmont (street car) 11.07@123.02mph.

GammaBoy

You can always go a set of Shelby style underride traction bars...
http://www.mustangsteve.com/underrides.html

I'm sure I've seen an article somewhere on building your own Caltracs too. basically the same as the underrides, except the front mount is different....

Ben

Soxx

I've got a XC disc brake 9" in my XH yoot and everything is just fine and dandy.
I did modify the rods a little though, but that's no biggy.

Rick.

__________________
4L I6, naturally aspirated producing 173.5rwkw.
14.410 @ 96.49mph with street radials.
What's that?..... Did I hear you say TQE power?