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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-21-02, 01:23 AM Thread Starter
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Lowering my XR6


I need opinions on what price i'd be looking at, to get my XR6 lowered. I am in Sydney and my insurance company want new springs, not just cut springs.

Does anyone have any suggestions / past experience with this, as i'm looking for better handling.

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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-21-02, 01:34 AM
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Re: Lowering my XR6

Originally posted by XR2FLY

I need opinions on what price i'd be looking at, to get my XR6 lowered. I am in Sydney and my insurance company want new springs, not just cut springs.

Does anyone have any suggestions / past experience with this, as i'm looking for better handling.
I would hope you wouldn't even consider cutting your springs - thats just plain stupid. And I would imagine you would be busted big time if you had an accident, like the dickhead over here who cut the springs on his Integra and was racing down the M-Way, lost it & killed a mother of 3 young kids.

No problem lowering your car, just do it properly:s5
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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-21-02, 01:48 AM
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CUT SPRINGS??!! I just got a set of front lowered springs for the XW for $130... Im sure it would be too much difference for yours.. Either way do it the right way or dont do it at all mate, bodgy is definately NOT the way to go mate.

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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-21-02, 04:11 AM
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Everyone i know that has cut the springs in there car has allways ended up on the bumpstops... i think its to do with the heat generated in the cutting process... it never turns out to be the height you were after and even if it does it tends to weeken the springs and worsen the handleing rather than better it....

There are a few places i know of around Sydney that you could get springs from and most will vary from $110 a pair to $150 a pair plus installation...
For that price its not worth the time to try and cut them IMO....

Which part of Sydney are you in ( North,South, ect ) ?????
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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-21-02, 05:16 AM
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Have a look around on the Whiteline Suspensions site - they have articles about handling - lowering doesn't necessarily automatically mean better handling.
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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-21-02, 05:23 AM
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Had my EF XR8 done last month with Pedders Sports rider suspention all round. Springs, shocks, and it is just on legal height.
Handles like a dream and set me back just over $1000.

Do it once, do it well.

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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-21-02, 05:23 AM
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Consider shocks too if you go 20% lower then you should go 20% firmer. Some/most shocks work on variable resistance as it travels [bump].Meaning if it's made to work on a shorter travel, it will bounce etc and NOT work properly.. I'm sure you have seen some cars around ride like that!!!

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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-21-02, 07:47 AM
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my current suspension setup is too hard, i got bout 10mm clearance between the rear tyre and body and it has never rubbed before! So basically i got less than 10mm of travel back and front. What can i do to make it softer? I cahnged my tires to a lower profile now, so i got more of a gap now for more travel.

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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-21-02, 08:46 AM
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Question HUH?-

Not to burst you bubble but cutting a coil spring to lower a car is a legit way to do it. There is a right and wrong way though. First off a strut is designed to only take so much lowering and I will say that. Second, to cut a coil spring you must use a shear or die grinder not a torch. Any huge heat like a torch will change the spring rate and tensil strength of the SPRING STEEL. Third after lowering the spring by removing a coil or two one must trim the bump stops down. The person you mentioned most likely did not wreck their car do to suspension mods but do to lack of experiance as a driver. Most people think heating a coil to lower a car is the way, but no this is entirely wrong. So you ask whats the difference in my stock spring and the Eibach I just shelled out 300 bones for, well one is length of coarse and two is the dampening factor and spring rate. If you look at your stock spring and want to cut it you must cut the correct end. the tightly wound coils should not be cut off. A person can lower a car 3-4 inches and trim the bump stops and the ride will be slightly tighter than stock. Each vehicle is different and one must experiment with the height. Also remember if one is running 17's with a very low profile tire and your buddy whom has the same car and is running 15 with slightly larger side wall his car will ride smoother do to the tire. So you will ask me then if I can cut my spring why should I pay 1100 bucks for some koni strut kit. Well koni actually designs thier kit for the spring rate and shock compression and dampening field for your particular model of car. To make a dampening system there are several variables they incorporate into the design. These would be for some one whom either is a serious street racer or just like the look of the koni. If you are just the average guy who wants a phat ride and don't care about parkinglot racing and adjustable struts then you can cut your coils. One thing though is this can take a couple of tries to get the ride heighth you would want. And if this is the first time you've thought about modifying your struts or have never done so you will need a strut compressor. I have used the cheap ones you can buy at a store but they are difficult and time consuming, even if you are going to buy a set of Eibach springs but want save money on installing you can take the struts off the car and take the whole assembly to a tire shop and have them remove the springs. Then go home and install the shorter Eibachs on the strut with out a compression tool. The coil is shorter than stock and it won't need the tool to install. I have lowered some 200 cars and have plenty of experiance in this field so if you have any questions I would be more than happy to answer them. Finally you must take you newly adjusted ride to the alignment shop. This will save your tires and handling. Without the alignment you could cause an accident do to negitive camber or caster. Also remeber some cars can not go as low as others do to inherent suspension designs. Example a 94 mazda protege' known here in the states can ride very smooth at a gound clearance of 2 or 3 inches from the ground. Plenty strut rod left and no chance in hell of getting over any speed bumps. Where as a 96 ford taurus could never go that low do to the lower A-arm design of the car. It can only be lowered a max of 3".
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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-21-02, 09:03 AM
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Snavvy, one thing to check right off the bat if you have a car with struts, is the rod. lift the car or turn the tire so you can look through the coil. There is a rubber dampner around the strut rod in the middle of the coil. This will stop your suspension from traveling to far. Most people leave this in stock or close to stock height. If it is the style that looks like a bunch of bumps together you can trim all of it off but one or about 1 inch to an inch and a half. This will stop your suspension but not bottom out the shock/strut. Also check the a-arms they may have a secondary bump stop on them as well, or maybe the primary. Most cars that ride or bounce while driving did not have the bumpstops trimmed, or in strut vehicles the coils removed. If you have a strut equipped car and your bump stop needs trimmed that is on the rod, no fear. There is no need to dismantle the suspension to trim the bump stop. One can simply use a razor knife through the coil spring and carefully cut around the bump stop. Once a full rotational cut is made you can simply make a verticle cut and remove that portion from the struct rod. If you have access to kevlar gloves this would be a plus. figure 10 minutes per tire. If you need to lift the vehicle with a jack please use a secondary support like a jack stand, safety always comes first, you want live to see if your mod is right. later
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