Cadget

I have a 98 NL Fairlane with V8.
Has been great, but now the suspension warning light has started to come on and the alarm goes off. I have to stop and wait a few minutes, then start up again.
Other than being a bit spongy, I think the suspension is OK. Does anyone know how to disable the alarm...its driving me crazy.
Or what suggestions are there for replacing the self levelling suspension and what would it likely cost?

The other annoying thing is the Oil pressure alarm. There is plenty of oil in there, and on a previous occassion when the alarm went off repeatedly, NUFORD said they put a new 'Earth strap' on the car and that seemed to fix it for a while. The alarm goes off when idling at traffic lights. The engine temperature does not rise and the revs do not alter. Revving the engine stops the alarm. I'm beginning to think that these issues are a symptom of an electrical malaise with the car.

Any suggestions gratefully received

TopGhia

Best to replace the suspension with a normal setup- not sure of the cost, mine was done when I bought it.

Oil pressure alarm.
What sort of oil are you using. Thin synthetic stuff is OK for OHC engines, but the Windsor V8 likes it a bit thicker, 15W-40 or something like that. How many k's has it done. Oil pressure will drop low when idling hot. Try a thicker oil.

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"I married Miss Right. I just didn't know her first name was Always."

Fairlane Boy

Hi, i've also got a fairlane, the self leveling suspension sucks, unless your towing anything heavy or constantly have large individuals in the back. Toss out those gas riser shocks and change all 4 corners to sensatracks. the car will be 100x better and no more saggy rear end. any other normal shock ive found dosent last the distance in the fairlane rear. You can turn off the self leveling suspension simply by pulling its circut breaker from the fuse box. The car wont even know its installed then.

As for the oil pressure, i can garrentee you its the oil pressure sender or theres crap on the contacts of it.

Ive had both problems with mine too!!!

PS. look forward to a new timing cover..

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Best wishes

Aussiblue

a) Do the self levelling suspension (SLS) self test 1st and post the results here. Sit in the drivers seat with ignition on and press the interior light door switch on athe A pillar or tthe driver's side A pillar three times within one second. The systems will go through a self test routine that take a few minutes raising and lowering the suspension. It will then flash that SLS dash warning light a number of times according to what faults it finds. Count the flashes and post the results here.

b) If you need new shocks Monroe supplied the originals and you can buy Monroe Gasriders (Part Number MGR-109) that bolt in and work like the originals with SLS raising and lowering the vehicle for around $250 from Repco, Veales, Marlows etc.

c) Usually the right rear shock springs a leak at the rubber bellows part due to its close proximity to the rear muffler and sometimes because of small leaks from that muffler. However, simpler (and cheaper to fix) things such as leaks in the nylon airhose that runs from the top of the shocks to the compressor or a diconnected link between the diff and the SLS module can cause problems. The worse (most costly) fault is a failed compressor.

d) BTW the cure for frequently failing rear mufflers and subsequent shock failure in to drill a 2 or 3 mm hole into the bottom of the muffler at its lowest point (near the right rear wheel) and spray the hole with galvanising spray. You will be amazed at how much condesation water drains out of this hole after you park each day; and this water usually hangs out in that muffler causing its premature failure.

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Regards Blue

Cadget

Thanks for your assistance guys. Aussieblue, TopGhia and Fairlane Boy.

I have checked out the cost of replacing the suspension and for around $725 to $850 I can get both front and rear including coils replaced using Peddars gear...similar to Sensatrak. I think I would prefer this rather than replace with the original gasriders. However, given I now know how to disable the alarm, I'll leave it until I can afford it. I tried the Susp self test repeatedly but failed to get it to do anything other than the initial flash when the ignition was first turned on. In any case I'll just diasble the alarm for now.

I will try changing the oil and clean the sender contacts.

Thanks for your help. I felt confident in cancelling a trip to the garage which I'm sure would have worked out expensive.