I've got my box of parts sitting here next to my desk and my GOD don't they weigh a ton. Inside I've got new discs, new pads and new bearings. Tonight, Mr Hamfistedness himself (me) will be fitting said parts to a ZH Fairlane.
I've got my Bible at home; you know, the "take your XA-XC (and ZHs too!) to bits" book, but it's not here with me at work so I can't prepare and avoid work this morning. I've read it 100 times, especially the part dealing with replacing front discs.
So I ask - is it difficult? I've never done it before, you see. I've been looking at the disc themselves, and as they're the "hub" type, there are 5 studs (for the wheel nuts, I presume) and a hole in the middle of the hub. What needs to be removed from the middle, then? A clip? Do I need to replace the bearings as well?
If anyone can offer me any advice before I go home tonight, I would very much appreciate it.
It is all fairly easy. You will probably want to go somewhere to get the bearing seats pressed into the hubs first though, as this is hard to do at home (read nearly impossible - mechanic should do it for little $$).
Should all be in the book. Get Bearing grease and make sure the bearings get well packed with it (Book should explain, basically turn bearings in palm of hand that is full of grease, and keep going until packed - yes it is messy.)
To remove old ones - wheel off, brake caliper off, cap off, cotter pin out, castlated nut off, pull off old hub. Note bearing seal at back (so you get the new one right). Reverse process to put on. Book should explain how tight to do the nut up.
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Cheers and Regards Autosignature - removed when Minginator comes to Qld
OFR #23
Member - ATPS - Automatic Transmission Preservation Society
You will probably want to go somewhere to get the bearing seats pressed into the hubs first though, as this is hard to do at home (read nearly impossible - mechanic should do it for little $$).
Hmmm... I may have to break out the larger of my hammers, then...
Thanks for the advice - about as straightforward as I had thought.
It is all fairly easy. You will probably want to go somewhere to get the bearing seats pressed into the hubs first though, as this is hard to do at home (read nearly impossible - mechanic should do it for little $$).
.
Just cut knock out the old bearing amd cut the old bearing with a angle grinder. You then place the old bearing over the new bearing and tap it in with a piece of pipe. When the bearing is in place, the cut bearing can easily be removed as it is free to be bent inwards.
Just cut knock out the old bearing amd cut the old bearing with a angle grinder. You then place the old bearing over the new bearing and tap it in with a piece of pipe. When the bearing is in place, the cut bearing can easily be removed as it is free to be bent inwards.
I like that idea. How hard is it to know the old bearing out? What would you use to do it?
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Cheers and Regards Autosignature - removed when Minginator comes to Qld
OFR #23
Member - ATPS - Automatic Transmission Preservation Society
When you say 'new' disks do you mean brand new or secondhand new?
I ask because my last set of brand new DBA rotors had new outer bearing shells installed from DBA, so all I had to do was pack the inner bearings with grease and I was away.
Really though, there is nothing to the swap. Make sure you buy yourself a can of CRC brake and parts cleaner because the disk faces must be 100% clean prior to installing the pads.
Oh and make sure you follow the correct procedure for tightening the bearings or you'll cook them in no time. Its torque to 30nm, then back off, then tighen to 30nm again *while* spinning the disk (easier with 2 people) then back the nut off 90 degrees.
When you say 'new' disks do you mean brand new or secondhand new?
Brand "spank me" new, as they say.
Quote:
Oh and make sure you follow the correct procedure for tightening the bearings or you'll cook them in no time. Its torque to 30nm, then back off, then tighen to 30nm again *while* spinning the disk (easier with 2 people) then back the nut off 90 degrees.
Well, it all got done last night. Didn't have to smack any bearings in as the rotors had the bearing shells preinstalled (but they came with separate shells in the box... weird) and the only problems I encountered were:
1. Caliper mounting bolts were VERY hard to undo. Liberal use of WD40 helped a lot.
2. Bearing grease is very sticky stuff. Latex gloves next time.
3. When finished I started the car up and pumped the brakes only to have the pedal go straight to the floor... horrified, I leapt out expecting to see brake fluid all over the floor. But then I remembered that I had to keep pumping a bit and after a few gos, all was well. :)
And as an added bonus, I didn't even get any grease on the rotors when installing them! After a quick road test last night, I can now stop with no pulsing pedal (old disc was warped) and the power's increased hugely - standing a ZH on its nose has never been more fun. :)
I could get used to this "fixing your car" stuff..!
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