i wonder if it would improve the rear suspension in my Nf fairlane, its pretty shocking really, ive new tyres and if i accellerate even slightly around corners i loose traction, and ive allready changed all the springs and shock absorbers.. didnt like the "gramps" orientated handling. in the wet its bloody dangerous. you have to drive very carefully all the time or it starts sliding around too. just yesturday i lost control of the car and mounted a kurb! its starting to scare me.
Keep an eye on the diff hat around the centre mount for the Watts Link. Your improved bushes with less give will considerably increase the loads placed upon it. The diff-hat is cast alloy and not very strong, although light. I have broken several in the rally car, where I admit the sideways loads are greater than normal, but each time the failure was due to fatigue. The cast alloy housing cracks around where the centre pin mounts and breaks away completely, letting out all the diff-oil, letting in all the dust, and doing nothing for the handling (although it is not nearly as bad as you might expect!!)
I now run a very solid (and heavy!) mild steel hat.
I believe the EL falcon moved the mounting point for the watts link down about 20mm on the diff hat, which removed a lot of the tail-happy handling. Would an EL diff hat be a straight swap for an EF housing? ie bolt holes the same, no modifications needed?
Have been told by guys at 3 Pedders suspension shops that i should not install nolethane bushes as they are too hard and will destroy suspension. My car has sports ryder, lowered 3 inches which is as far as pedders go on AU and it handles superbly
High Performance Car Toys have said otherwise but i reckon they would do anything to make a sale
I'm sticking with my rubbers thanks. Not sure what effect nolethanes have on other Falcon models.
Remember guys - there is a difference between Nolethane (the RED) bushes, and POLYURETHANE, the BLUE stuff.
Nolethane is a brand and it's known for it's rigidity, it's used on some suspension points but not all.
I opted for polyurethane because it fills the space it's it, it handles friction excellently, it' still absorbs shock. As far as i'm concerned, it's everything rubber should be but doesn't have the molecular structure.
Rubber cracks and has a very short life.
If you stick to polyurethane I fell your'e safe, as I said, it's helped the handling a treat.
If youre still not sure, then fit new rubber bushes, but do something.
Oh by the way I tried the EL dif hat on the EF dif, but it's different.
The real answer is, if you have an EF 1 that is, fit the Whiteline upper control arm conversion kit, it takes you up to AUII spec at the rear.
Re: Converting Watts Link Rubber Bushes to Poyurethane Bushes - The Difference
Originally Posted by redwards
The Holden Panhard rod setup is reasonable but not great.
The Ford Watts Link is a much better design because the system has NO Lateral movement. Axle goes up & down not sideways.
Panhard Rods have a significant weight advantage over Watts Linkages. In addition on a road car the Panhard Rods only have two elastomer bushes, compared to the Watts Linkage which has four elastomer bushes. Having half the number of elastomer bushes means hald as much bushing compliance.
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