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Re: 2001 Windstar driver door lock not working
Came across this before I seen your second post , might be something in it that could give you a clue to fault .
How do you repair a Windstar door lock actuator?
In: Ford Windstar [Edit categories]
Answer
Repair would be to replace and I have no direct knowledge of the 99 model but my 2001 wasn't so hard and I would guess that the 99 will be a similar replacement.
* Remove the door panel, on the 2001 it's 2 screws located on the inside door handle, 2 on the bottom and one at the top near the mirror.
* With that removed you take off the foam panel and expose the inside of the door.
* The lock actuators are easy to find, they are attached to the lock rod. There is one electrical connector on it that is taken off by lifting the lock clip using a slot screwdriver then just pull the connector out.
* The actuator itself is a bit odd to get out.
To look at the new one it seemed to me that it would click in from the top but after doing the first one I saw that it actually SLIDES in from the direction of the outside of the door.
I found a very thin narrow slit located where the striker hits the lock on the outside door jam and this goes directly to the side of the actuator. I fashioned a tool from a narrow putty knife then pushed it into the slit and then pushed onto the actuator releasing the little friction clip that you can see on the new actuator.
You then have to push and push this whole thing towards the outside wall of the door which doesn't go too easily. On my passenger side i resorted to a long slot screwdriver to use as a lever to help slide the thing forward because it didn't want to budge.
The good thing though is that the new ones slide right into place easily.
* Another thing, the pin on the actuator that moves the lock-rod just sits inside the lock-rod, there is no mechanical attachment and it fairly loose so no need to worry about that part of it. ----
Another Procedure Write-up
# Remove the retainer screw from the door handle cover and remove
# Remove the screw from the bottom left corner of the door panel
# Pull the door panel away from the door, starting at the bottom (may need to start with door half open then close fully to remove). Lift up and off the door
# Peel back the door insulation by working gently at edges
# Remove 3 black screws from the face of the door latch mechanism
# Disconnect the controller arm at the top of the door latch mechanism that connects to the outside door handle. The plastic connector will push up from the metal arm after the locking tabs are pushed in
# Open the door half way and remove the 3 screws from the side of the door around the door latch
# The door latch mechanism is now able to be removed out from the inside of the door. The black wire cables may need to be removed from some of the retaining clamps
# The lock actuator can be removed. The actuator body will twist out of the spring clamp. Then the bar at the end of the actuator can be removed by turning
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Another Procedure Write-up
For a 2001 SEL, which likely applies to all 1999-2003 models:
Some of the other procedures here attempt to not have to remove the latch & lock assembly. I found it immensely easier to get the assembly loosened to the point where I could see the backside where the actuator slides into the assembly. The adds a couple of extra steps, but, it was less frustrating than trying to work blind in the corner of the inside of the door.
Tools needed:
7mm or 9/32 socket with 6" extension
11mm socket
Small to medium prying tools. I use a $3 set of nylon ones from Harbor Freight
Razor blade / knife
T30 star fastener bit - for the door latch to door fasteners
Magnetic tray to help avoid losing parts & screws
Flashlight if your eyes are 2 days past "middle-age"
Remove two (2) 7mm screws at the bottom corners of the door panel
Remove two (2) 7mm screws just below the pull-handle - actually they just stayed in the deep access holes and didn't come out
Remove the black triangle cover at the top front corner
NOTE: there is a friction-clip near the top of the triangle. Pry/pull at the top to release and then lift up & away. Don't pry at the bottom like I did, or you'll just break-off the internal clip. No real harm as the cover is pretty sturdy even without it
Remove the now-visible 7mm screw from the top front corner of the panel
Remove the clip-in cover behind the door handle
NOTE: the friction-clip is at the front of the cover. Pry it up a bit and pull the cover towards the front of the door to clear the other hooks
The panel will now lift-up and away from the door. There are NO friction-clips so don't waste your time prying the panel away, just lift
Release two (2) wiring connectors at the topside of the panel - push-in clips to release the connector
Optional: If your door has the courtesy light, turn the light socket counter-clockwise to release from the panel. Whew! The door panel is now free of the door
The foam cover is lightly glued to the door - gently pull it away. The razor blade/knife will help you keep from tearing the material
Inside the door
There are 2 wiring connectors, only 1 of which goes to the door lock. I released the bottom connector earlier-on, and the other one was easier to release after the assembly is loose
Remove three (3) 11mm nuts that hold the exterior door handle cover
Try and wriggle the door handle to slide it off the top of the connector rod. There's a 90 degree turn to get through, but it should slide & wriggle past it and off the rod
Release the inside door handle cable from the nylon holder-clip. Just provides more wriggle-room
Remove the three (3) T30 mounting screws from the door latch on the end of the door
With the entire assembly loose inside the door, you should be able to turn and wriggle it around the internal window support and get it out to the largest opening in the door to work on it
NOTE: the interior door handle cable, exterior door handle connector rod, doorlock manual operation rod and maybe even the second wire connector are still hooked onto the assembly - but there's enough play to get the assembly out to the opening for clear access
The actuator itself slides on/off the assembly from the outside side of the door. Take note of the retainer-clip on the new one, and then spot it on the old one - press it in and push / slide the actuator off the assembly
Overall, not a bad job and I wouldn't hesitate to do the next one.
Almost forgot to tell you where I bought my part. Autozone wanted $70-100, and one of the local salvage yards priced a used one at $30. I bought a brand new one from RockAuto.com for $32 plus $3 shipping.
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