'92 ford aerostar won't start, just clicks... then starts later - Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks, Ford Focus and Ford Cars

tre2004 · 06-26-2004, 10:19

I have a ? I have a 1992 ford aerostar, In the winter it did this real bad. You will go to start it and it will just click. The battery is showing full charge, and all the lights, radio etc.. work. You can come back 2 hours later and it will start. And it won't do it again for months, or a couple of days later. It has started again, and now it has been doin it allot. After it was doin the "click" thing, I went back, it started.... and then it acted as if the battery was dying. Like it was having a hard time to start. And after the 4th time trying to turn it over, it acted as if the battery was completely dead. Just click!
Someone said that it sounded like the battery so I changed them out, and it stoped it for about 2 weeks, and now it is doin it again. I have read that if it is making the click noise that it isn't the starter, is this true? And I don't think that it is the alternator, or the battery would actually be dead. I don't have a clue as to what is wrong. Has anyone had this prob before? Could it be the solenoid, or some relays or something? I am trying to find something, my van in about 30 miles away, in the next town. Where i couldn't get it started yesterday. Thanx for any help or advice in advance.

'92BigBronco · 06-26-2004, 12:12

The clicking is the starter solenoid engaging but not getting enough power to turn the engine over. It could be quite a few things. Due to the age of the vehicle, the battery cables should be the first thing you check. They often get corroded under the insulation and will prevent the alternator from properly charging the battery. Clean the battery terminals as well.

If the cables are not to blame, I would suspect the alternator or another charging system problem. The best way to check this is to let one of your local parts houses hook up their diagnostic machine to your vehicle once you get it running again. Most of them do it for free and can tell you what the problem is. Remove the battery you have in the vehicle now and have it charged then reinstall it. I bet it will fire up and you'll be able to get it home.

A bad alternator will not result in a completely "dead" battery. The car will run fine until there's not enough juice to either start the vehicle or maintain spark. More often than not you won't know your alternator is history until you get stranded somewhere when your car won't start back up after shutting it off. Been there, done that.

Good luck!

albrjmnz · 07-18-2004, 09:16

It is neither the alternator nor the wires. The problem is the starter, garanteed. I had a car that did exactly the same thing. Just clicked but nothing. to prove u is is neither the alternator nor the wires, If it were the alternaor, it wouldnt hold the battery charged. If it were the wires, the radio, lights, etc. wouldnt work. I am 1000000000000000000% sure it is the starter! please get back in touch with us n tell us if u got it fixed.

'92BigBronco · 07-18-2004, 10:20

A battery can have more than enough power to run the radio and other accessories yet not have enough amperage to turn the engine over. The radio pulls next to no amperage so the fact that the radio still works means nothing.

Replacing the battery fixed the problem for a couple of weeks, so it stands to reason that the charging system is to blame. Starters don't usually fix themselves for a couple of weeks then quit working again.

However, a starter can quit working for an hour or two if it's too hot. People who replace their manifolds with a set of headers know all too well that heat can cause all sorts of starter engagement problems. I haven't heard of too many people replacing the manifolds with headers on a 3.0L Aerostar though....

Chris Nicholas · 09-02-2004, 05:40

Check a couple of things:-

I am assuming that you have checked your battery and alternator so then move on to........
mileage on your vehicle - if this is over 75-80,000 miles then I suspect the starter motor brushes have worn down to the pressure springs and/or the commutating ring on the rotor is worn out and now is out of round resulting in intermittent contact.
Most likely a combination of both.
If this is the case then the easiest solution would be to renew the starter motor brushes for a fraction of the cost of a new starter motor.

If this is not the case then check that the battery supply cables to the solenoid and starter motor are fully tightened at their clamp terminals. ALL connections to the screw terminals must be clean, bright and free of any corrosion and dirt. Note that about 300 -400 amps will be passed by them on start-up and a lot of heat will be created. The cables themselves must be in good sound condition.

Also check that the earth/ground braid and cable are securely returned to the engine block earth lug and the bolts/nuts are tight. Again this must be clean and free from corrosion.

Keep us posted on how you get on.
Good luck.

MarkSDavies · 09-06-2004, 06:39

I just had this happen on my 93 Aerostar 3.0 - and it was the starter relay. This is suggested in the shop manual when all you get is a click. My problem was intermittent - usually the car would start fine, but occasionally you would just get a click. One clue is if the car starts quickly if it starts at all - usually if it's a battery or corrosion issue, you'll get a slow grinding start.

The starter relay on my Aerostar is mounted on the fenderwell, just above and to the right of the battery (I did not have to remove the battery, but you need to disconnect the battery wire from the negative post before removing the starter relay). From the questions I was asked at the parts store, some of them are apparently mounted on or near the starter.

I was quoted $40 for the starter relay over the phone, but it came up as $11 when paying for it.

marie2769 · 09-12-2004, 05:44

please help...... i have a 93 ford aerostar 4.0 2 wh. drive.... we have had bad ideling and stalling at idel for a few weeks now and have went through the book changing out almost everything... we changed the Vacuum Modulator Valve witch i know was a BIG problem and i am hopeing that trams. mission fluid has not fauled my plugs, although i know this is possible because i have seen that the fluid has gone into the the air flow system a little bit. PVC\Throttle sensor, fuel filter,and Mass air flow sensor... i am wanting to change out the MAP sensor, but my book does not show it's location for the 4.0 motor... i am hopeing someone can tell me this, and maby tell me more things that might be the problem.....

any help will be most appr. thanks