abuttino

P0301 and very rarely a P0304.

Yesterday the check engine light was flashing a bit more. Maybe the problem is getting worse and it'll be easier to diagnose.....

abuttino

I did a vacuum test on the intake manifold.

Holds steady at 17 idling.

Accelerated the engine to 2500 rpm, the vacuum increased as speed increased, then let the throttle go and watched it jump up a little bit (5-6 -hG)then back to normal. The car did hestitate to maintain 2500 but I am guessing that's the common with a vacuum hose detached.

This leads me to believe that it could be a bad plug, wire or coil. However chances of this are small. I am going to switch out the plugs and wires to see if the problem follows the plug change.

While I have the Cowling off, I'm going to do a compression test also.

Everytime I bring it to someone new to explain the problem, they ask me if the compression has been checked. So, it's just easier to tell them yes and be truthful. Although the vacuum test tells me that this isn't the case, I need to be 100% positive.

The problem has been getting worse. Matter of fact, when I pulled the vacuum hose off the intake, then put it back on.. Drove around for about 30 minutes and the check engine light flashed a lot more.

rtg143

That vacuum reading is kind of low. When you said the vacuum hose off, was that with the gauge in it's place? That shouldn't affect it if it was. Keep us posted as to how things are going.

abuttino

Yes, the gauge was in it's place.

How low is low? Should I stop now and just start thinking about a gasket change?

rtg143

That article has a lot of information. Read the whole thing to get more information about that. Did you clean the MAF? They can give a variety of problems. There's a special cleaner for them. I'll see if I can figure out more about this meanwhile.

abuttino

Well, I have to stop for tonight. I don't have a helper for the engine compression test to turn it over so I have to wait until tomorrow.

However I did switch plugs and wires and right now, my buddy has the computer to check and of course autozone or advance auto are closed. However it still hesitated..

I noticed that the boot from the manifold is cracked but not all the way through. When I check the computer tomorrow, I'll buy a new one of those.

I really hope that it changed from cylinder 1 to 6 or 2. I changed the plug wires from one to two and the plugs from 1 to 6.

Also, I noticed that 6 had more crap on it than 1, matter of fact, one (the cylinder I have having the most problems with) was almost clean.. Pictures to follow.

abuttino

Still misfiring on cylinder 1. I will do the compression test today.

I took the boot off to look at the MAF sensor and what do my wondering eyes appear, puddles of oil in the accordion style thing that comes off the intake manifold..

I am going to do some research on this, however I presume this is not good at all.

rtg143

Take the oil filler cap off when it's idling and see if you get a lot of blowby. The PCV valve may need changing.

abuttino

UPDATE: I disconnected the MAF and it seemed the car performed a lot better. I stepped on the gas to get out of my neighborhood onto a main street, and that little bit of gas I pressed seemed to skid the tires, nothing like that would happen before that sensor was removed..

Since I already have the cowling off I am going to still check the compression to see the heath of the engine.

What should I do next?

abuttino

Latest Update:
All readings in PSI for engine compression:
145 - Cylinder 1
130 (1st reading) 145 (2nd reading, no oil added to cylinder) - Cylinder 2
160 - Cylinder 3
155 - Cylinder 4
160 - Cylinder 5
160 - Cylinder 6

I have a feeling that I didn't get a good reading from 2 because it wasn't screwed in up to the o-ring, that's why I took it again.