Originally Posted by Big D 117
I have a 1997 Windstar with the 3.8L engine.
I replaced the coil pack in Nov. 04. It went bad again (I thought). I figured it didn't last because I bought a "cheap" one . . . so I went to NAPA and bought a good one with the lifetime warranty . . .
The new one just went bad after less than 100 miles . . . something else is wrong . . .
Someone told me there is a control module that can make the coil pack go bad . . . but I can't find anything in the Haynes manual about a control module.
Does anyone have ANY suggestions or know of the module this person is talking about?? ANY help or suggestions will be GREATLY appreciated . . . this is my wife's van and I have to get it fixed ASAP.
THANKS IN ADVANCE!!
Just did a complete tune-up on a 96 Windstar, so if the set up is the same (which it supposedly is) then you're in luck. I changed anything involed in making a spark except for the stock wires plugging into the coil and going into what looked like a relay box for the ecm, and the stock wires going from the ignition module to said relay box. The ignition module is located on the firewall of the Windstar. You have to 1st disc. the bat. . Go ahead and remove the left half of the air cleaner assembley, go on to remove the rubber runner hose. Be carefull not to pull these pieces out until you have 1st disc the elec. and vac. connections. <The same is highly warned for the next step, removing the upper intake manifold. Look carefully! A lot of vacum lines are on the back passenger side of the upper manifold, one fatter rubber line to be removed from the drivers side. You can fix any broken vacum lines by getting 1/8 inch inside dia. rubber line at any auto parts store and cutting a small section of said hose to put over the broken side of each broken vac. line. When removing the bolts for the upper manifold take it EZ! If by chance any of the bolts are extra tough coming out, they may have been over torqued when being put back in the last time. I don't even have time to write about the scene that took place when one of the STEEL bolts being removed snapped with only less than an 1/8 of an inch up...... Sear's has great little tools to help with problems like that, plus you can return them if you're slick, because they are expensive!
Anyway once you have the bolts removed, you can go ahead and carefully still pull out the upper manifold, lift a half an inch or so, be looking down and feeling for tension from a missed line, or a line snagged on the metal brackets on the back side of the upper manifold - Then pull it forward, you'll be placing it to the right with the throttle wires still connected. Go to AUTOZONE, they have the cheapest parts at the same oem or better quality. 129 + tax for the ignition module.
By looking at the part they give you in the box, you'll be able to locate the module on the firewall. Remove the module and disc. the wires. Replace
Put it all back together and you're good to go!!! Jimmy