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Back again. Same fuel problems

3K views 21 replies 4 participants last post by  TKO 
#1 ·
So I went for a week or so absolutely perfect. Now it's having a hard time
Starting. I don't understand why. I can drive for and hour or two with no problems and shut it off and it starts fine. I can start it and pull it out of my driveway and come back 10 minutes later and it won't start. This is what ie concluded. When the truck does not start I leave the key to the on position, and not try starting, if I wait for about 3-5 munutes I hear my fuel pumps come on and it starts fine and has no problems. Im starting to think this is my ignition switch, the switch that has the pin that turns when the key is turned correct? The previous owner broke the steering column and I have my ignition switch hanging under my dash and start it right at the switch. Is there anything else I should try? I moved my truck this morning started fine, turned it off, went back 5 minutes later and started. It's driving me insane. And another idea I thought of was maybe my fuel pressure regulator or a bad relay


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#2 ·
Replaced my ignition switch and the same thing. This happens with both my tanks on my trick. I have bought the schematic finally and next time it does this, on going to jump out and put in the new relay. And if that doesn't work then I'm going to replace all of the components up to the pumps. I know my fuel pumps are fine.


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#3 ·
Truck didn't start first or second time. Replaced relay 2 with the brand new one. And started up. Got to my destination. Started up fine again, drove 1000ft or so and it shut off while I was driving. So the schematic starts at a 20A fuse then a relay and now its my fuel inetia switch, then my switch to switch primary and secondary tanks then that's it for the fuel system. I might go to a junk yard and get a whole new steering column and then diagnose from there, as I recall, the way I start my truck is by a hanging ignition switch and that's it


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#6 ·
I am pretty sure autozone will check that right? And it's driving me crazy because I can crank for half an hour and nothing, leave the key on the on position and if I wait long enough without trying to start my truck I can hear the relay click ad my pumps come on, does a fuel pressure regulator build pressure up before tr truck cranks? How does it work?


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#8 ·
It's just scary because the regulator is about the same price lol well on Friday when I get paid ill make a choice of my next step. And my CEL is on, and I guess my air pump is bad? I took my intake manifold off and there is a white vacuum line that broke. I cannot find where It's supposed to be connected to, and its sucking in a lot of air. Is there a vacuum line diagram? The vacuum line starts at a little box right next to the battery, if it helps at all


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#11 ·
Well I went to start my truck today in the pouring rain. And I'm starting to notice whenever I get an undercarriage wash or its pouring, or out of nowhere... The fuel issue happens. But tonight I turned the key and the lights went out, clicked as if the battery was dead then out. Dead short. Opened te hood and eventually the lights came back on and I tried to bypass the solenoid thinking it was bad. I saw sparks on the neutral terminal post. I went under my truck ANSI pulled more protective coating off of the positive side from battery to starter and the wires looked worse than I thought. I was driving today earlier and my truck acted up, the CEL came on but the truck didn't stall, I hit the gas and the truck jumped and the light went out. But it did it again and I let it go to see what would happen and I had power steering and power braking pulling into a parking lot and eventually the truck shut off, and the pumps didn't come on for a while again. I am wondering if my starter is shorting out the system, or a neutral safety switch? Idk but where could I buy new wires? Or should I go to a junkyard and swap


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#13 ·
I did replace my starter.. The wiring is definitely in bad shape. I've never had a starter dead short like that before. But then again, never had trouble like this before. So I talked to more people and they think its the fuel pressure sensor, or the temp sensor. I do not have a working guage in my truck. And I went to flush my system and I pulled the plug and nothing came out. Friday I'm going to put CLR in my system and I guess that could unclog my engine. But now I'm thinking of replacing my thermostat at the same time.


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#16 ·
There are products designed specifically for flushing the coolant system. I actually got to looking into it, CLR would be more detrimental to the freeze plugs in the engine than the radiator. There's mixed reviews out there about putting CLR in the radiator, but 2 common denominators come out of it: Don't use CLR with the radiator attached to the engine, CLR is last resort when faced with replacement.
 
#18 ·
That could be just mud in the bottom of the radiator. Before going nuts on it, try taking something and gently see of you can knock the blockage loose. Last resort would be doing a flush of the system, still getting poor performance and weighing the price of a quart of CLR and a couple of gallons of antifreeze against the price of a new core and a couple of gallons of antifreeze.
 
#19 ·
Hello TKO:
What is the history of your truck? It's starting to sound like your truck was a flood or storm recovery vehicle. A friend (here in sunny SoCal) knowingly bought a flood/storm damaged truck from Louisiana for next to nothing. He had every problem in the book until he (we) eventually replaced every wiring harness and electrical component in the vehicle with those from a wreck. No more problems and he now has a very nice low mileage F-350 Diesel for about one-third book value. Just FYI, if it applies.
 
#20 ·
I don't exactly know the history. My truck was from Virginia and that's about all I know. Is there a way to tell?

On another note, I was thinking while sitting in the parking lot trying to start my truck tonight. I wonder if my tank selector switch is bad. Once I started my truck I decided to pull off the panels and I pulled the selector switch while it was running. The truck died out. And wouldn't start up like the same symptoms as before. I'm gpokg to replace the switch tomorrow and if that doesn't work, I'm doing the fuel inertia switch. Then probably start doing harnesses. Is that a good ideA?


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#21 ·
Check Carfax, but it's fairly easy to "fool" Carfax if there are no insurance claims. Also check local history where the truck is from. Additionally, there will be tell-tale signs, besides the problems you are having. Look for debris and rust, especially in the interior, where you wouldn't expect to find such stuff.
If it is a "flood victim" it will "nickel and dime" you and demonstrate the problems you are having until you fix it. Best way, find a total in the junk yard and buy the entire wreck. You can then remove what is needed, use the wreck as a guide, then sell what is left. The dash not withstanding, it's not hard to change wiring harnesses and electrical components, but it is time consuming.
Good luck!
 
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