I read all the posts and replies from the beginning.
You had two issues at the same time causing all the confusion plus using used battery and poor cables.
Now that you have the charging system apparently functional, leave that system alone.
The next issue sounds very much like the TFI is giving up from 'heat'.
It's a common fault.
Here is how it works.
1. The TFI has seperate start and runs circuits from the ignition switch.
2. On start the start circuit is in function to provide better spark.
3. Once the igniton is back to run from cranking, the igniton switch transfers to the run circuit to the TFI.
.
If the TFI is fully faulty neither start or run will work.
Sometimes when the run circuit is faulty, the motor will start in crank then stall in run. This is one circuit function fault.
Replace your TFI and see if it doesn't clear the random stalling problem.
You can test for no spark first to confirm it.
It's easy to test the coil for spark manually.
The TFI has nothing to do with the fuel or pump.
You should have been checking fuel pressure and spark to isolate the base cause instead of flying all around on things and having this much hassle.
A faulty TFI = no spark.
Another possible cause is the PIP in the distributor. The TFI plugs into or is cabled to this sensor.
Low or no fuel pressure in the injector rails = no run, spark or not.
From this simple checking you would have known what direction to look for the issue..
Sorry for the mild scolding but you can't always go with just circumstancial evidence for everything that happens without testing to verfiy.
Good luck.
Don't be sorry, I'm learning this truck because it's new to me. I knew I had spark and fuel. I didn't know the pressure. I do not know how to test spark, reason I knew it was electrical is because no matter how many times I tried it would not start, once or twice I would be in a quiet place. And hear my pumps come on, then it would start fine. It's been fine since I checked almost all grounds and connections. Replaced alternator, serptentine belt. Battery posts, and other fuses and relays. My left turning signal fuse was out by the way
The pump being used has to run full time or the motor will stop.
Sounds like a ground is intemittant between the power and both pumps.
The switch is only a transfer between the pumps.
Good luck.
I know the switch is used to switch between tanks, we aren't. Blaming the switch, more like te fuel inertia switch shorting out and opening up, the relays are weak, or a ground. The pumps had trouble coming on when they were called to. Or just would shut the fuel pumps off. The truck stayed on, all lights, turned over fine. And the pumps just stayed off. That is the problem we are pretty sure
I haven't gone back to read all the posts, but I recall the problems you have had. Do you have a voltage/continuity test meter? They are not expensive and are easy to use, but it sounds like you are going to need one to sort this out.
Electrical problems can drive one nuts, but there is nothing mysterious about them. You just have to be methodical, have PATIENCE, and the proper tools to find the problem.
Yes I have a multimeter if that's what your asking, knock on wood my truck starts everytime now, ad doesn't stall, of let it idle also, only problem iw had is when I went through a car wash, usually I hand wash it, but I had an underbody wash and the truck started running hard, I think water just got into the intake I think, it eventually worked itself out. Idk what else it could be
Yes, exactly. Multimeters are useful for checking continuity and resistance (ohm's), as well as voltage, and are a must have tool when electrical problems pop up.
Glad to hear it's running well for now. Hope it stays that way.
As do I. I wonder if changing the battery, alternator ad the battery posts, going through all of the electrical grounds and checking all my connections pushing them together did something. Or it's just luck. And it fixed itself
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