I still have a ticking noise under what sounds to be my valve cover. I checked my rocker arm torques and all is well. The ticking seems louder when I cold start and when my truck has been running for a while the ticking comes and goes and is not as loud. When I hit the gas the ticking increases as the rpms increase. I was thinking this was a sticky lifter. I am in need if an oil change soon also. So if seafoam really works can someone explain how to use this specific to my vehicle?
Seaform is worth a shot for $10. There are a few ways to do it. I've never added it into my crankcase (not mixing stuff with my full synthetic oil!). As of late I've been using Amsoil powerfoam which is sprayed directly into the throttle body. Once the can is depleted (or about 1/3 to 1/2 can of seafoam sucked in through the brake vacuum line) shut the vehicle off and let it sit for a good fifteen minutes. Seafoam/Powerfoam break up the built up carbon in the valves, cylinder head. If a valve isn't seating correctly it can potentially free it up allowing better combustion.
It won't however fix any damage to stressed metal components. When you start the vehicle after 15min or so, it will smoke like something fierce and will take a few extra seconds to start. Best way to clean the vehicle out is right after you start it, keep it in second gear and find some 40mph roads with low population (they won't like the white smoke clouds).
Before ripping the valve covers off, give the spark plugs a quick inspection and make sure they're not fouled or have improper gap.
If you find yourself going past the oil change intervals, run a higher quality oil, or synthetic for that added piece of mind.
I used the Seafoam through my throttle body, made things a little more snappier, but it won't replace breaking down the components and cleaning them properly. I'd recommend it as a maintenance more than a corrective action. I've been using Marvel's since I had a 72 'Stang back in the early 90's. Tore the heads off, changed gaskets, etc., but always had this ticking that came from the passenger side of the heads. I remembered we used to dump a full quart of marvel's after a "backyard rebuild" and let the engine idle for about a half hour, then change the oil and filter. Figured what the heck, try a pint in with the charge and it pretty much took care of the tick.
I've changed the oil already and have 5w-30 in it. And I'm confused about having it in the brake system like you said. Just pull off my air intake and spray it into my dual throttle bodies right? Half a can? And let sit for 15 minutes? And it's all safe for my truck right? Never tried this stuff before. Of the seafoam doesn't work I will add a quart of the additive like you said
You're not actually putting it in the brake system, you're adding it into a convenient vacuum location (the booster). There's an aerosol version that has a tube that you can slip into the air intake, instead. The instructions are pretty clear, but this is for cleaning the air intake, if the "tick" is from a lifter, you need to get it into the oil. Sea Foam is also an oil additive (much like Marvel's Mystery Oil) and will probably give the same results as Marvel's does. I merely recommended Marvel's over Sea Foam since I've used Marvel's as an oil additive with good results, but I've only used Sea Foam as an intake cleaner. Since both products have been on the market for a long time, you'll probably get equal results from both in either application. They're both designed to help the engine clean itself. Just make sure you use a good quality oil filter.
I'm due for an oil change anyway so I should pour this right into where I'd put my oil and let it run and after it mushroom clouds the neighborhood I should change the oil? Is fram better than stp? Or is it opinion? I change my oil myself.
After either treatment it's best to change the oil within 50-100miles. It's the filter that's the more important part you want to change out as any dislodged debris will collect there and can hamper flow. Changing the oil right after treatment won't allow ample time for the old engine oil to circulate the crap through the filter.
I time it right with my Durango that after seafoam/powerfoam I change out the copper plugs and change the oil after driving it about 100km. My Taurus I don't change out the plugs but it gets an oil change. Both vehicles only get one oil change a year (full synthetic Amsoil) so I like to make sure the old oil circulates the carbon crap out of the engine before installing a fresh filter and oil. I'm rather impressed that my Taurus still runs like a champ after 13 years and 260,000kms.
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