Oil life is based on the purity of the oil. If there are no contaminants and no acidity or moisture in the oil, run time in the machine has nothing to do with when you need to change it. Sampling of the oil probably will cost as much as much as a change, so it's more cost effective to do it on a routine basis. In a commercial or industrial environment, it's generally the other way around, an oil sample is miniscule in comparison to an oil change. On Navy ships, purity is constantly monitored, but we'd go 5 years or better without changing our oil... of course our sump had hundreds of gallons rather than a few quarts. As long as there are no contaminants, we never change the oil in our chillers unless we're tearing it down for a rebuild, but we sample it annually.
'Scuse me, while I scrape this Honda outta my treads.
I get samples 5 at a time with postage costs me ~$20/ea.
Oil change costs 5 quarts with filter:
Amsoil 25K: $78 a year
24K reg oil @4K change intervals at $26/ea: $208 providing the store has the cheapest stuff in stock
My G6 GT only takes 4 quarts! Also, I don't drive the full 25K a year on the oil. Once I hit 20K on my Taurus for mostly I stay within the 15-17K miles a year range. Even cutting out the cost of two regular oil changes it's still worth the cost savings. Not to mention my time and effort it would require to do an oil change every 3K to all my vehicles. Another drive-thru oil change shop was sued for ruining an engine by not installing the filter correctly - the shop cross threaded the filter and the oil slowly leaked out from a bad seal. The threads were in such horrid shape the oil shop ordered a new engine for the said vehicle. Dealerships want close to $50 here in Ontario for a regular 3K oil change. Drive-thru shops are in the $35-40 range. An extra $5 if the vehicle needs more than 5 quarts!
So, approximate cost is roughly $100 a year including one sample per vehicle with Amsoil. If I lived in the US, I'd get oil and filters at lower cost, including Amsoil products. I do a sample mid way through each year to give me not only oil life remaining, but if there are any contaminants in the oil, such as coolant or fuel dilution. If the number slowly increases each year I can knowingly expect a head gasket failure in the future, among other potential problems. So far, the numbers have been steady.
I did some work a few years ago on the Algoma Spirit - lake ship, when it was up in Owen Sound, ON. I was assisting with replacing the main conveyor bolts, some 8,000 of them. The things I do to help friends with tight schedules.... I stood inside one of the cylinders as the chief was replacing something on the top end. The ship had a whole wall of gauges and such just on oil.
My G6 GT has that stupid oil life monitor. It's useless as it doesn't measure the properties of the oil, but merely the running time of the engine and how much throttle you give it to calculate when the oil needs changing. It takes 4K for it to go from 100% to 0% and I just reset it, as I run the full synthetic. Manufacturers should have developed a proper system.
Purchased seafoam and oil and a filter today. I poured the said amount into my brake booster and the rest into my valve covers. I'm going to try to drive about 50-100 miles maybe less before my change. I was curious as to why there is a vacuum line on the brake booster that runs straight into the intake manifold. I probably didn't get the huge white clouds because about a month about I took the manifold off and wire brushed, hosed, degreased and replaced the seals on it.
Well when I pulled the filter off it was definitely a lot heavier than the new one. So the seafoam cleared the system out. But bumping up to 10w-30 almost sounds like the ticking is either louder or more noticeable. It doesn't seem to go away like it did when I had the 5w-30 in it. Any suggestions?
I doubt the oil is a direct cause to the noise remaining. I would take it in to a shop for a diagnosis - they have small mics that can bend into areas around the engine to better pinpoint the noise and hopefully find a source. If they say its in the top end, you can remove the valve covers yourself (again), get a spring compressor (generally free to rent through stores with a deposit) and pull the rods. 5W30 to 10W30 won't make that much difference, but I wouldn't drive it too much as you don't want a rod or valve to break off and fall into the cylinder which will make things much worse; providing that is where the noise is originating from.
So if I do get a compressor what should I do from there after I pull off the rockers and the spring? Pull out the push rods right? That's what they are called? I've never got into much of the internal parts, I can do almost everything on the external.
I still have a ticking noise under what sounds to be my valve cover. I checked my rocker arm torques and all is well. The ticking seems louder when I cold start and when my truck has been running for a while the ticking comes and goes and is not as loud. When I hit the gas the ticking increases as the rpms increase. I was thinking this was a sticky lifter. I am in need if an oil change soon also. So if seafoam really works can someone explain how to use this specific to my vehicle?
I'm willing to be you're on the right track. Not sure what 360 is talking about by pulling the rods unless he's talking about the push rods. . Your problem is more than likely a camshaft, lifter or push rod issue. Could possibly be a weak valve spring. Don't just pull the springs as the valve will fall into the cylinder. As 360 stated, I would take it in to a shop for a diagnosis.
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