2001 ZX2 2.0L / Engine Troubles - Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks, Ford Focus and Ford Cars

edetwe · 06-16-2009, 15:13

Problem began when running engine @ 55mph - engine began stumbling when depressing accelerator - ran acouple more miles maintaining speed - pulled over and goosed engine and it died as expected - wouldn't start again - finally got it to start after backfiring once but couldn't give it any gas or it would quit - when running engine possessed erratic idle - got it too start aday later after repeated cranking, same result, backfire first then erratic idle, died when increasing idle
Assessment: No Engine codes, Fuel pump is running, new fuel filter, injectors working, good spark all cylinders, new TPS, IAC moves w/current, new plugs, PVC valve, new MAP sensor. Not sure if or when Timing Belt has been replaced though it is still intact. Could the coil pack cause this trouble? Is there another component that I should be checking

Sterling_Six · 06-16-2009, 17:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by edetwe

Problem began when running engine @ 55mph - engine began stumbling when depressing accelerator - ran acouple more miles maintaining speed - pulled over and goosed engine and it died as expected - wouldn't start again - finally got it to start after backfiring once but couldn't give it any gas or it would quit - when running engine possessed erratic idle - got it too start aday later after repeated cranking, same result, backfire first then erratic idle, died when increasing idle
Assessment: No Engine codes, Fuel pump is running, new fuel filter, injectors working, good spark all cylinders, new TPS, IAC moves w/current, new plugs, PVC valve, new MAP sensor. Not sure if or when Timing Belt has been replaced though it is still intact. Could the coil pack cause this trouble? Is there another component that I should be checking

Hello and good day:

Your Coil Pack could be the problem...but you said you did not get any OBDII Codes...Did you pull a plug and check you Compression ?? You do have Spark??

edetwe · 06-16-2009, 19:28

Thanks for ur reply!!!! - No Engine codes are present - There is spark from all 4 plug wires and no, I didn't check cylinder compression. I've currently no tool for such test, unless your aware of a simple way to test for compression without a compression gage. I did get the engine to start for acouple seconds repeatedly by using starting fluid in the air intake. Appears to me to be fuel related. the filter is new and the inertia switch should be ok {as it worked when installing filter - 2008 fall}. The pump whirls when turning key on - maybe fuel pressure sensor or fuel temp. sensor - I believe its doubtful that the injectors are clogged - I've replaced one since owning the car. I did clean the IAC with carb. cleaner acouple months ago before replacing TPS, this was a mistake I now know {Brake cleaner only}. Maybe the plunger for IAC broke down causing two much or no air.

Sterling_Six · 06-17-2009, 18:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by edetwe

Thanks for ur reply!!!! - No Engine codes are present - There is spark from all 4 plug wires and no, I didn't check cylinder compression. I've currently no tool for such test, unless your aware of a simple way to test for compression without a compression gage. I did get the engine to start for acouple seconds repeatedly by using starting fluid in the air intake. Appears to me to be fuel related. the filter is new and the inertia switch should be ok {as it worked when installing filter - 2008 fall}. The pump whirls when turning key on - maybe fuel pressure sensor or fuel temp. sensor - I believe its doubtful that the injectors are clogged - I've replaced one since owning the car. I did clean the IAC with carb. cleaner acouple months ago before replacing TPS, this was a mistake I now know {Brake cleaner only}. Maybe the plunger for IAC broke down causing two much or no air.

Maybe the plunger for IAC broke down causing two much or no air.
Check the IAC again.

edetwe · 06-19-2009, 13:09

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Thanks for response S.Six - OK - So I was pretty sure the engine wasnt getting any gas, cause it wanted to run when ever I shot either into the TB. Autozone didnt have a fuel pressure regulator for me to borrow so I just cranked the engine numerous times followed each time by cracking open the fuel line at various points: after, then before filter, and beginiinning of line at fuel pump. NO sufficient gas was emitted at any of the mentioned points. So, I yanked the pump and assembly and ran a resistance test. HAYNES manual says it should be @ 22 ohms with float lowered, I registered 16.5 - 17.0 / with float raised manual said @ 145 ohms, I registered 163.0 ohms. The readings did change smoothly as the float was moved. Manual said if readings are incorrect, replace the sending unit. I should also note that the "strainer" on the sending unit was thoroughly filthy, as dirt clouded gas dispelled from it. Now, I'm no electrician, so my question is: are the readings I received - too far off the scale or not - and if so would you all replace the pump sending unit, or just the strainer.

p.s.The IAC looked the same as when I cleaned it prior

Sterling_Six · 06-19-2009, 17:37

No I believe your Reading are ok and right in line.

But I would Replace the Pump Sending unit.

edetwe · 06-20-2009, 09:28

Well, I dropped in a new fuel pump assembly and this fixed the problem, the car now runs. The old pump ran but either did not provide sufficent fuel and or the old strainer was too filthy to deliver. I surely appreciate everyone's remarks / posts. Will now plan on replacing timing belt and pulleys for preventive maintenance. Thanks again - Eric