Mk1 drag racing info - Ford Forums

HSV.ETA · 05-21-2004, 04:45

I'm building a MK1 escort that will be used 90% of the time for drag racing and I'm after a bit of info. In order to get the weight down most of the interior has been removed along with a few other things and I was wondering how hard it is to remove the heater (as it isn't hooked up anyway). Is this a big or difficult job? Secondly I intend on replacing the modified standard webber with something that makes more power once the car has had a few runs and was wondering what my opions were apart from twin webbers (I know they work very well but a pair with all the bits will end up costing more than the car). I have heard of and seen 2ltr's running 2 and 4 barrel holleys, does anyone know if this will work for a drag racing application (fuel consumption is not a concern, onlt power) if so what size would be most suitable? Finally I was told that a locked diff will be stronger than a standard one, is this true (i know the tyres will get scrubbed out but it will very rarely be driven on the street)? A hilux diff conversion is in the pipe lines however I would like to give a go with the mk2 diff before this goes in. Anyone know where i can get tramp bars from it suit? Sorry for all the question and thanks heaps for any help you can give me.

Perana XR8 · 05-21-2004, 04:54

The weakness with the Escort diff is the spider gears so i would think that a locked diff would be stronger and if its a drag car this would be a good idea, Heater is easy its about 4 bolts i think, Dad has a XE Falcon (34 ADM Weber) Carby on his and that seems to go alright probly better options though IMO the best option would be sidedraught webers but they are expensive, tramp bars im not sure on as ive bought genuine Ford ones from England.

EBXR · 05-21-2004, 19:29

4bbl holley will work nicely. I've seen a double pumper holley in a mate's worked mk1 esky that worked a treat. he ran 2 tanks, one for methanol and one for petrol. As the carb had 2 fuel bowls, one ran the methanol (secondaries) and one ran petrol (primaries). It was a turbo though, but was very quick.

universal aftermarket tramp bars used to be freely available. Might be worthwhile posting a wanted add in the parts section.

As for fuel lines, run them down the left hand side underneath the car.

I've been told that the Mk1 diffs were stronder than the Mk2. The locked diff would be stronger, but more prone to snapping axles.

HSV.ETA · 05-22-2004, 02:09

Thanks for that info. What size holley would be most suitable for my 2ltr it has had some port work, larger valves, a large cam (don't know what profile) has been bored 40th over with flat top pistons and runs extractors and a 2.5 inch exhaust. Would a 465cfm be suitable as I assume it outperforms a 350 2bl and they are very affordable. Some one mentioned a 390cfm but I haven't been able to easily track one down (in brisbane anyway). If i go the 4 barrel will anything on the carb need to be modified (once the manifold has been modified, and will there be any hope of keeping it under the bonnet?

HSV.ETA · 05-22-2004, 02:27

The diff that came in the car was a falcon style with the bolts on the back of the housing and is a 3.89 ratio (the new diff has the bolts on the front of the housing, i think it looks similar to a banjo diff in torrana). Would my standard MK1 diff be the type you mentioned when you said they were stronger and if so would I take it to a diff shop to get it locked (I have no idea how to weld a diff).

EBXR · 05-22-2004, 19:27

The diff with the bolts at the front of the housing, and would allow you to remove the centre (after removing the axles) would be a Mk2 escort diff.

Yeah - your standard mk1 diff would be the better option IMO.

A 465 Holley would do very nicely - it would use less fuel than a 350 holley when cruising as it would be using the primarys only, and more when bruising and the secondarys kick in! It will all depend on your whole package. Are you running double valve springs? Have you done much porting to the head?

If you get the chance, have a look at David Vizard's book on modifying the 2 litre.

HSV.ETA · 05-23-2004, 06:03

I'm unsure about the double valve springs and I was told that the intake and exhaust ports have been "opened up" but again I'm not sure how much. The engine was used in a rally car before I bought it and all the work was done then. The guy that rebuilt it recently lives up the road so I will check the details with him. We started it today and had it running and the cam is "very" lumpy and sounds more like a worked six than a four. Once it is registered the first job will be a good dyno tune to see how its really going. Will the jets (i think thats what they are called) or anything else in the carby need to be changed to run with a 2ltr? I guess a good dyno tune will sort that out too.

EBXR · 05-23-2004, 07:19

A good dyno will sort out the carby for you, and tell you if what you are running is too big or small. They can also recurve the dizzy to suit the engine.

Good to hear the engine's up and running!