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I have just bought a MK1 Escort 2 door in pretty good condition (140 000 from new very good interior perfect 1.3 4spd and very good body). I am intending on putting a very worked 2ltr in from a friends car and I want to know how easy/difficult this conversion is. I have seen plently done so I assume it is achievable, any one else done it or can give me any tips. What would be recomened for a diff and front brakes? Can i simply use mk2 parts and would they be good enough?
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1965 XP Falcon sedan (soon to be a 250 crossflow and T5)
1986 XF Spac Sedan, EFI, T5, lowered, with a few more mods to come.
Use the mk2 stuff... struts, front brakes, master cylinder, gearbox, crossmember, engine mounts, etc... you can use the mk1 diff (but from memory, you'll need to change the wheel lugs to the mk2). Using mk2 stuff keeps the rego boys happy.
You will have to cut the radiator support to move the radiator forward. That will give you sufficient clearance to run the fan.
Basically, you end up with a mk2 in a mk1 shell... and better power to weight ratio than the mk2
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'67 Mustang V8 4sp... what fun to drive!
Thanks for that info. Will the engine fit behind the radiator in the standard location if I use a themo fan only, and remove the engine fan? Does the MK2 diff fit straight in place of the standard one and anyone know what ratios are available (The motor I am purchasing is making 130 hp at the wheels so I doubt the 1.3 diff will take it). Is it still possible to buy MK2 engine mounts new and will the new engine (and 2ltr mounts) line up with the standard (MK1) mounting locations?
I bought the car for 1000 from a car yard and it was owned by an 80 year old guy who bought it new.
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1965 XP Falcon sedan (soon to be a 250 crossflow and T5)
1986 XF Spac Sedan, EFI, T5, lowered, with a few more mods to come.
I was under the impression the Mk1 diffs were slightly stronger than the mk2's. Mk2 diffs bolt straight in.... Mk2 ratios are 3.54 (commonly found in factory 2l); 3.77 (1600's); 4.11 (panelvans)....
Mk1 was available from the factory with the 2litre (Mk1 RS2000). Have a talk to quickco motorsport, (08) 8369 0488, as they can get almost anything escort.
I'm pretty sure the water pump will fowl the radiator if it is not moved forward.
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'67 Mustang V8 4sp... what fun to drive!
It is possible to run the radiator in the standard position, if you trim the lip at the back of the engine bay and run a thermo fan at the front of the radiator. This is how my dad did it on his MkI when he fitted a 2ltr
I had a good look today and the radiator does stick out a long way in the standard spot so it will have to be trimmed. The car is being set up as a bit of a weekend drag racer so do you think the standard diff will take it I heard they have quite good ratios (for a quick take off) standard. I know its only going to be a guess but does any one have any idea what it would run over the quarter with around 130 hp?
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1965 XP Falcon sedan (soon to be a 250 crossflow and T5)
1986 XF Spac Sedan, EFI, T5, lowered, with a few more mods to come.
I agree with spanner fodder being a good site, but most of this has moved to Classic Ford Forums, which is an excellent site for any DIY car enthusiast.
The escort diff are absolutely shithouse, and broken diffs were a very big issue when they were new. I have killed two diffs within months, and have since shortened a BW 8.75" (indestructable). Click here for more info on how it was done etc. If you are serious about doing burnouts etc, ESPECIALLY cold starts (drags) with 130hp, then you will need a better diff. (I blew mine when the engine was pretty much stock 2lt.
btw, the 2lt conversion is VERY simple. The main things to worry about are radiator clearance (as mentioned) and to use a spacer under the clutch fork-arm. Mine was originally 1600cc, and is now 2lt. Escorts are also very bad in terms of axle tramp (which also helps to kill the diff), so you will need slapper bars, radius arms or a four link rear to prevent spring wind-up, and provide good takeoff :)
You'll need to cut out the radiator panel for the engine to fit in the engine bay properly, you'll need to trim the bulkhead lip at the back.
You'll need to use an RS2000 alloy sump & pickup pipe to clear the cross member & a set of Pinto engine mounts, ideally use a World Cup Cross member, but make sure you get the one for the Pinto & not the crossflow one.
If you use an RS2000 gearbox you'll also need to use the alloy bellhousing.
Where the gearstick hole is, you'll need to cut out another hole further back to fit the new lever in (Around 1" I think), you'll also need to move the gearbox mounting brackets further back as well, using the RS2000 bracket or one from a 5 speed Ford Sierra.
With this you'll also need an RS2000 propshaft as it is shorter than the standard Escort one due to it having a longer gearbox.
You'll also find that you'll need to play around with the wiring loom as the Pinto has more electricals.