Ford Taurus 2008+| Mercury Sable 2008+ | Lincoln MKS | Ford Five Hundred | Mercury MontegoForum for the discussion of the Ford Five Hundred, Mercury Montego, 2008+ models Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable.
Okay, i will be as detailed as possible. I have a 2006 Ford Five Hundred Limited AWD V6.
Here's the issue with the A/C.
It only blows cold when you are driving. At idle, blows warm.
If you rev the engine and hold it at least at 3000rpm, blows cold. but at idle, blows warm.
I have checked the fans, both fans work.
I have checked the LOW side pressure, it is at 80psi.
I realize it is over-charged with freon, but when the freon is taken out to the appropiate amount, it blows warm constantly.
I have watched the compresser & it doesn't cycle on & off. Just stays running. I have been told that's because it is over-charged with freon.
I have also been told that i need to check the HIGH side and see what the pressure is.
If pressure is normal, then i have internal failure on the compresser
If pressure is HIGH, then i have restriction with freon somewhere in the line.
This is all what I have been told by different people.
The condenser is also a issue in my opinion. Alot of the fins are bent and are visable from the front of the car. So, i asked about that and was told that because of bent fins, it would restrict freon flow at idle, but when driving, the air would push through the condenser and create cold air.
I am at a complete loss. My next step is to release the freon to the approapite level. But, i don't know what to do from then. Please any advice would be greatly appreaciated
Technically, you're not supposed to release the freon according to EPA regulations. It can get you fined or jailed even though you're probably 134A and environmentally safe. The condenser fins being bent would cause your head pressure to go up, but of the compressor stays running, it's not high enough to go off on high pressure. If head pressure is high, it's more likely due to environment with your suction pressure so high. A restriction would starve the return and you'd more likely have a very low suction. You're more likely to have a bad compressor or a slipping clutch under load. There is a possibility that your expansion valve has failed, but that would more likely fail in a fashion that would leave you low or, at the very least, not quite that high.
'Scuse me, while I scrape this Honda outta my treads.
Okay. I'm not the smartest with a/c systems so maybe you can break everything down for me. I just decided to check the PSI on the Low side again with car running, a/c on max air. it shows beyond 80psi. but, like i've stated before, when you rev the engine, the a/c blows cold, & the pressure goes down to about 50psi which on the gauge is green and normal. I honestly don't know what to do. If there are steps i can take one by one to figure out what is wrong, please tell me them! this is very frustating!!!
Second post, there is no manual switch as far as I can tell. There's a low pressure and high pressure switch and the AC command in the dash. You might want to at least look up automotive AC or buy a book on the basics before tackling this.
'Scuse me, while I scrape this Honda outta my treads.
Might sound a little blunt here, actually i do sound blunt. there is no way your going to
trouble shoot this untill you know for sure what your charge is. Have it evacuated and pumped down. Put the proper factory charge back in then you can eliminate a charge
problem and go on from there.
Okay. here's a major update. Compresser & condenser were replaced. Dryer, etc everything was replaced and freon level is in the green (53psi). Here's my new problem. Driver's side blows eh mostly cold, passenger side, blows hot & warm air. Now, i've done my homework and read up on this, i've been told it's most likely a blend door actuator that's causing this. i've dropped down the glove compartment because you can get to it from there. Now, i have put my hand on it, switched the a/c direction, off and on, i can't really hear any pops or clicks. BUT! what i have heard when you turn the key on, not engine on, you like a creak or a door opening or closing right in the center of the dash. I'm not sure if this is the blend door trying to open or close or it's stuck because the actuator is going out. I've called Ford Dealer and they tell me it most likely sounds like the problem and part costs $40.70 be4 tax. Is there any part sites that would sell for cheaper? I know fordpartsgiant.com sells it for $25+ shipping so that comes out to $38.00. not much different from dealer. Any ideas?
As for this car, i have also done a check i read about where you push the OFF and DEFROST buttons back and forth and then push the auto button within two seconds and if there's a code, itll display it like 1249 or something like that. I've done this with no code being displayed. I don't believe the blend door itself is broken otherwise the air on both sides would be messed up. Is this most likely my problem??? Blend Door Actuator ?
Rock Auto has it for 25.79, and it does sound like the actuator not traveling fully. I'd say that you ought to verify that it's a weak actuator and not a sticky door, but at that price, it'd be worth it to replace it while checking out the condition of the door.
Okay. I bought & replaced the actuator. ( not too fun getting to the bolts )
and pulled a SJB 15 fuse, to "calbrate the actuators" and still nothing changed. cold on driver's warm on passenger. I pulled off the trim molding that holds the vents and what not, and put a flashlight inside, changed the air direction and can see both blend doors opening and closing without any problems.
Im not sure if there is a problem further back that i can't see right now, but i can see the doors move up and down without problems. But, i called O riley's and asked them and got a interesting response.
One guy told me he had to over-charge his freon in his truck for it to blow cold. Even tho before the level may be in the green and say that it's full, it didint blow cold but not hot, in the middle he said. and when he over charged it, it blew cold.
Now, before the compresser and condenser and dryer etc was all changed, it was over-charged with freon and it blew cold only when driving. at idle it was warm all the time. but when they took freon out to the green and the "full" level, it blew warm all the time, driving or at idle. It only blew cold when it was over-charged.
Does that mean that it needs to be over charged now for it to blow cold on both sides??
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