Ford Taurus 2008+| Mercury Sable 2008+ | Lincoln MKS | Ford Five Hundred | Mercury MontegoForum for the discussion of the Ford Five Hundred, Mercury Montego, 2008+ models Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable.
I'm having problems at the pump other than paying for the gas. The gas nozzle keeps clicking off way before the tank is full. This happens every time, no matter what station I'm at, position of car etc. Changing the position of the filler nozzle does not change anything. I looked for obstructions etc and everything looks new/undamaged. Anyone else experience this?
i have the problem with my 05 mustang sometimes.... when it first happened the mechanic at the shop said that he thinks that the hose from the gas tank to the filler is kinked. it still puts fuel in but the pump puts to much out.... kinda like a funnel in a way. so u may want to check that and if it is kinda kinked see if u can cup alil off of it and reconnect it so its a straighter shot to the tank...
There is a TSB on your fuel fill issue. Also there is a recall on fuel tank replacement for certain 07 Five Hundreds. Call your local service dept and give them your Vin# to see if your vehicle is included with this recall. Mention Recall NHTSA11V355000. You might want to also mention the fill problem you are having and mention the TSB number below.
SLOW FUEL FILL/PREMATURE SHUT OFF
2005-2007 Five Hundred, Freestyle
Some 2005-2007 Five Hundred, Montego and Freestyle vehicles may experience premature automatic shut off of the fuel fill nozzle. Several variables, including variations in fuel pump nozzles, fuel flow rates, and fuel flow pressure may result in the premature automatic shut off of the fuel fill nozzle making it more difficult to fill the fuel tank.
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.
NOTE THIS CONDITION MAY STILL OCCUR EVEN AFTER THE REPAIR BELOW IS COMPLETE. SOME FILLING STATION PUMPS MAY DELIVER FUEL AT A RATE GREATER THAN THE DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION (DOT) SPECIFICATION, OR MAY USE NOZZLE DESIGNS THAT ARE OVERLY SENSITIVE AND TEND TO SHUT OFF PREMATURELY. THIS IS NORMAL.
It is not necessary to complete all steps listed.
Repair is complete when concern is found.
1. Drain fuel tank to 1/2.
2. Install IDS and check for diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P1450. Is DTC present?
a. Yes - Go to Step 4 to repair Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) restriction.
b. No - Go to Step 3.
3. Monitor the fuel tank pressure PID (FTP) on IDS and start refueling, stopping at 7/8 tank or less (add less than 2.5 gallons). Did voltage go over 3.8?
a. Yes - Go to Step 4 to repair EVAP restriction.
b. No - Go to Step 5 to inspect fill pipe/tank for blockage.
4. Remove fresh air line at fuel vapor separator (line goes from fuel filler housing to fuel vapor separator near carbon canister). Blow shop air through the lower end of the line and capture contaminants in a clear plastic bag in the top end. Was a blockage or appreciable amount of debris (spider nest/web) present?
a. Yes - Follow procedure I to install new filler housing kit that contains new spider trap to prevent spiders from building a nest/web in fresh air line. Repair complete.
b. No - Go to Step 6.
5. Inspect the fill hose for any evidence of a kink. Remove the clamp at the tank spout and pull off the hose. Check the spout for any evidence that it may have been crushed under the clamp. Push check valve in tank with finger, the plunger in the tank should move freely down with light pressure and return to the top with a light spring force. If the spout is crushed or the valve does not move freely - remove and replace the fuel tank. Was concern found?
a. Yes - Repair/replace line or tank as necessary. Repair complete.
b. No - Go to Step 7.
6. Remove EVAP canister and check for liquid fuel when the quick connect is removed or the canister is tipped down. Was excess amount of fuel seen? Excess would leave a 10" (25 cm) diameter circle on a flat surface.
a. Yes - Remove the sending unit access cover on the vehicle right side and remove the sending unit. Inspect the large vapor line quick connect connection to the bottom side of the sender flange, and if not fully seated, fully seat the connector, reinstall sender using new gasket. If the connector was properly installed remove and replace the fuel tank and the carbon canister. Repair complete.
b. No - Go to Step 9.
7. Inspect the fill pipe for any blockage. Note an object like a nut that will fit through the 13/16" (21 mm) hole at the top of the pipe should fall freely through the remainder of the pipe. Was blockage found?
a. Yes - Remove the blockage or replace the fill pipe. Drain the fuel to less than 1/2 tank prior to reinstalling the pipe. Repair complete.
b. No - Go to Step 8.
8. Remove secondary sending unit on left side of vehicle and inspect tank valve body. Valve body is about 3 1/2" (9 cm) in diameter (about size of a baseball) and is located rearward of opening for Five Hundred/Montego and forward of opening for Freestyle. With one finger, push plunger located in center of bottom plate up 1/2" (13 mm). Plunger should move freely and fall when let go. Does plunder move freely?
a. Yes - Go to Step 10.
b. No - Remove and replace the fuel tank. Repair complete.
9. Replace the canister with a new lower restriction canister. Repair complete.
10. Reassemble vehicle.
11. Refuel to three automatic click offs and confirm vehicle fills okay and voltage remains below 3.6 volts. Observe the fuel gauge reading after refueling. Does fuel gauge show above full, correctly indicating fuel level?
a. Yes - System is okay.
b. No - Go to Step 12.
12. Check the FLI reading in the cluster. Does reading on the secondary side read XXX or higher? Enter Instrument Cluster Self-Diagnosis Mode following instructions in Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 413-01. Check F1 XXX or FDM fuel level XXX RADS and F2 XXX or JPM FUEL LVL XXX RADS. Are both numbers 210 or higher?
a. Yes - Reading correct and the system is operating properly.
NOTE THE CLUSTER MAY BE IN SLOW IN UPDATING FROM 7/8 TO FULL.
b. No - Refer to TSB 06-17-2 Fuel Gauge Erratic/Inaccurate and install sender service kit.
Procedure I - Fuel Filler Housing Removal And Installation
WARNING DO NOT CARRY LIGHTED TOBACCO OR OPEN FLAME OF ANY TYPE WHEN WORKING ON OR NEAR ANY FUEL-RELATED COMPONENTS. HIGHLY FLAMMABLE VAPORS ARE ALWAYS PRESENT AND CAN IGNITE. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAN RESULT IN PERSONAL INJURY.
WARNING DO NOT CARRY PERSONAL ELECTRONIC DEVICES SUCH AS CELL PHONES, PAGERS OR AUDIO EQUIPMENT OF ANY TYPE WHEN WORKING ON OR NEAR ANY FUEL-RELATED COMPONENTS. HIGHLY FLAMMABLE MIXTURES ARE ALWAYS PRESENT AND MAY BE IGNITED. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAN RESULT IN PERSONAL INJURY.
WARNING THIS PROCEDURE INVOLVES FUEL HANDLING. BE PREPARED FOR SPILLAGE AT ALL TIMES AND ALWAYS OBSERVE FUEL HANDLING PRECAUTIONS. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAN RESULT IN PERSONAL INJURY.
1. Release the fuel tank filler cap and position aside.
2. Remove the two (2) bolts from the top of the fill pipe through the fill door.
3. Remove the two (2) fuel tank filler pipe upper retaining screws. To install, tighten to 27 lb-in (3 N.m).
4. Remove the fuel tank filler pipe lower retaining bolt. To install, tighten to 80 lb-in (9 N.m).
5. Remove the right hand rear inner fender splash shield.
6. Remove lower end of carbon canister fresh air line (rubber connector) from carbon canister rectangular dust box from connection behind right rear tire.
7. Being careful not to let dirt get into the end of the uncapped fill pipe, pull the top of the fill pipe through the hole in the filling housing and cover with plastic bag. Stow pipe out of the way for housing removal.
8. Remove two (2) screws from behind the fill door located inside rubber door stoppers, then remove the housing and fresh air line out through the wheel well.
9. On some vehicles, the cap is attached to one of the bolts which holds the fill pipe to the filler housing. Attach this cap using the push pin supplied in the kit and to the hole in the fuel housing. On some vehicles, the cap is attached to filler housing with a push pin. This push pin should be removed from the housing and from the cap. Reattach the new push pin supplied in the kit to the cap and to the new housing. Lastly, for later models, the cap is attached to the back of the fill door. If this is the case, leave the cap as is and push the supplied push pin into the empty hole in the housing as a plug.
10. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
11. To help seal the housing better to the quarter panel, a nut is included in the kit. (Figure 1)
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