fordgt19

Hi everyone,

I'm looking at making an offer on a 1972 ZG Fairlane. The person I spoke to about it didn't know much about it so I had to do my own investigations.

I had a look at the engine code which was "Y". It's a V8. Would anyone know weather this a 302 or 351?

The condition was pretty average generally, with behind one rear guard dinted fairly bad, no grille, drivers side mirror, two flat tires and a smashed front bumper.

Not much rust though, which is good. Also unregistered. I dont think it's been modified at all.

How much do you think I should offer?

Cheers, FordGT19

Anthony P

In an XB,Y is a 302.A 351 would be T or K as far as I know.

fordgt19

Thanks:) How is the 302.A different from the 302.B, if there's such a thing?

Anthony P

Sorry,I should have typed it differently.That's a full stop after the 302.
The A is in the next sentence!There is only one type of 302 in those models.
Sorry for the confusion.

fordgt19

No worries:)

jg66me

If its a 72 it will be a ZF, not a ZG. ZFs where made from 72 to 73.

Steve

__________________
Cosmic Blue XA GT Hardtop,
Tropical Gold Landau,
Neptune Blue XC 5.8 Fairmont Hardtop,
Pine N Lime XC 5.8 GS Fairmont Wagon,
Apollo Blue 75 ZG Fairlane 50th Anniversary.
Brooklands Green 83 Capri Mk3 2.8i
Green EL Fairmont Ghia (The wifes).
Black BA XR6 Ute
Fordson Super Major Tractor
Fordson Super Dexta Tractor
Ford D1211 tray truck
Yes, I like Fords.

outback_ute

Engine codes didn't change much though

XWish Ute

Ok, I'll jump in here with a guess for an offer. The 302's were very common, and there is a fair bit of work required on the car. When you say not much rust remember these cars are over 30 years old, and the rust proofing was dodgy back then. At least if its original, no repairs should be masking it.

Check:

Up under the dash around the vents. Have a mate pour water into the scuttle. If any comes through - run.

Seam between upper and lower firewall halves.

Inside boot - under rubber seal, around fuel tank, up under rear window. For the last one - have a mate pour water around window - leaks = rust.

Seam behind rear bumper.

All around window - roof stainless trim - beware any bubbling. Does it have a vinyl roof? ANY bubbles felt/seen underneath should ring warning bells.

What about the floors - you can get replacement panels........

How is the mechanical condition?

Interior condition? Buckets and T-bar? Headlining? Electric windows? Air con and power steering? Does it ALL work? Sorry, but there are a HEAP of things to ask if you are going to part with your cash! ;-)

Seriously (apologies to lovers of this model - hey I like em too!) in this condition I'd be wary of going above $400. Probably a good deal less if you find more faults. Remember it is NOT straight (the rear guard is worth a heap to repair if you are not or don't have a panelbeater mate).

Flame suit on........

XWish Ute

Oops, one more thing...

Hope I didn't sound too negative earlier - just trying to pass on my experiences getting burnt without checking things out fully!

The main thing is - if you are not comfortable, don't buy it. Don't be afraid to ask questions and have a GOOD look - it's your cash after all! Take a mate for an unbiased opinion too - don't laugh, despite me being a Ford freak, one of my best mates is (sadly) a Holden nut. Oh well. But I take him with me when looking at cars as he has no interest in the fact that it is a Ford, and will pick things I may gloss over. Guess they are useful for something! ;-)

Good luck, and let us all know how you go!

outback_ute

Good advice there XWish Ute. Fordgt19, you say "not much rust" - don't worry about rust in the doors or front guards, that is easy to fix, the real problems are in the areas XWish described as they are a lot harder and more expensive to fix. If it has started to rust in some areas, check others very very closely.

Another good idea is to have a look at a few so you know what all the panel joins etc are supposed to look like, that will help you pick if the thing has just been filled with bog.