Anyone else sick of being ripped off by the aftermarket industry?
Seems the more you pay the less you get!
1. Top dollar Simmons wheels. Get flat tyre for NO reason! Apparently this is quite common. Alloy wheel centres with no seats for the nut to tighten against! Wheel nuts supplied are tapered type as used on STEEL wheels and tighten againd machined centre, NOT GOOD ENOUGH. Also wheels are VERY tight on aftermarket rear axle hub. Need mallet to remove, great. Explanation: "It's just the machining tolerances they use, Simmons wheels are like that." New wheels fit well on old axles and old axles fit new wheels very well so go figure.
2. Moser aftermarket billt axles. I cannont get a wheel stud to stay put in these axles. I have had the only set carried by the local distributer for my model rear disk brake XC and they are of piss poor quality and my wheel nut work loose because the studs are turning. These guys sell Moser axles by the pallet load and reckon most guys just use their old wheel studs. They will gladly sel lyou new axles but not appropriate wheel studs as good ones appear to be only available for U.S. models. The crap I have is just plain dangerous. What wheel studs do all you drag racing enthusiasts use with your big horsepower motors? Do you run disk brake nine inch diffs or what?? If so then what wheel studs do you use? Simple, practical question but it seems nobody, not even the axle soecialist who suposedly supplies most of this country with billet axles can answer.
Well I had aftermarket (REPCO) wheel studs to begin with and have now wasted money on two furter sets. My question then is are the genuine Ford studs any better and are these available in slightly longer then standard to suit the deep centre wheels?
So my warning to all is don't get caught up in all the hype like I did. I was better off with the standard parts which served me well for so many years.
1978 XC Fairmont GXL, Emerald green, Jade Int. 351C, 750 VAC, C10, 9" LSD
Air, steer, power windows................