Picked up an 74 XB Coupe. POS at the moment and in big need for restore. Im sure theres someone who can give me some pointers with this model. (Rust work ok but looking for things that might normally get missed) Its a ground up job. Also I heard somewhere there is weights somewhere in the body work (Increase in GVM to Size model)
We restored one over a year ago.
Rust:-
1. The panel under ther ear window. I removed the rear glass and replaced the panel. GT Performance in Niddrie have these.
I cut the old rubber to remove the glass as the rubber had gone hard. Got a new rubber as well.
Otherwise all the usuall XA/XB/XC places:-
2. Tail light panel. This rusts along the lower edge where in is spot welded to the boot floor.
I sliced this along it's length and inserted a 4 inch wide sheet with a slight fold in the middle. Some MIGing and filler and it looked like new.
3. Check inside the air well between the top of the firewall and windscreen.
If too much rust then you are in trouble as it is hard to replace bits in here. Mine only had light surface rust which was scrubbed back and I ZF'ed the whole innards.
4. Take the guards off, remaove all the seam sealer and replace it all.
I give this area a good scrub, etch prime, re seam seal, and spray with body deadener.
5. The bottoms of the guards.
6. Around the rear wheel arches.
7. Bottoms of the rear quarter panels.
Remember, NEVER bog rust. It must be cut out and replaced with metal.
The legendary extra weight.....
There is none added on purpose.
Like all cars of that vintage the roof C piller to rear quarter join is finished with "Wiping metal" which is Lead.
Newer cars use "bog" which is light.
However, you may find some of this lead on the inside under the rear side windows where it dripped down during assembly.
The XB V8 coupe weighed about 1550Kg and the BA XR6T weighs around 1710 kg.
Have fun.
__________________
The XR family ---->
Muzza: a XR8 AU seriesIII...bog standard :)
TBH: (the better half) drives an ED XR6 wagon (Mock Dev 4 160rwkw, JMM extractors, 4 electric windows, Ghia door panels in XR trim, rear head & arm rests in XR trim, Momo s/wheel with Cruise, EL thermos, EBGT wheels, etc) things to come soon = EECV upgrade.
The XB V8 coupe weighed about 1550Kg and the BA XR6T weighs around 1710 kg.
So a BA XR6T engine in an XB Coupe might be a fun idea.............
Seriously though, you might want to check the engine crossmember as I broke one of these on my XB coupe many years ago. The front subframe will also get damaged due to bottoming out when driven hard over bumps so you might want to check for damage or cracks etc.
Regds
Tote
Chopped out a cross member and the panel across the top of the radiator from an 74 vintage Marquis.
1. removed the re-inforcing panel that was spotwelded to the Marquis crossmember section (box section underneath).
Most of the V8s had these so I stuck one into mine (our coupe was a manual 6 originally).
I bought a sump guard to suit the XB and fitted that. The coupe has Kings superlow up front.
I would recommend the added panel if yours doesn't already have one.
Get one off any XD/XE/XF as they were standard on those models.
Try Affordable Wreckers in Dandenong Vic for the sumpguard. Many LTDs and marquis had sumpguards fitted so they are around.
2. I cut out the re-inforcing panel that runs behind the top radiator panel and welded into ours.
Mine went from a narrow 6 cylinder radiator to the wide GT style so the sides of the radiator support panels were widened, the re-inforce panel was installed and I used GT style radiator mounts (also found in 351 LTDs, Marquis etc).
The radiator was a 3 core out of an XD (same width as GT type).
Would have preferred to spot weld those panels in, but, could not get a hold of a spot welder anywhere. I MIG'ed them in instead.
__________________
The XR family ---->
Muzza: a XR8 AU seriesIII...bog standard :)
TBH: (the better half) drives an ED XR6 wagon (Mock Dev 4 160rwkw, JMM extractors, 4 electric windows, Ghia door panels in XR trim, rear head & arm rests in XR trim, Momo s/wheel with Cruise, EL thermos, EBGT wheels, etc) things to come soon = EECV upgrade.
be prepared to expect the worse. If the parcel shelf, doglegs, firewall and rear wheel arches are quite rusted, it may be only feasible to look for another shell and transfer the good removable panels
seriously unless you've got 20000 plus to spill into it(including respray) it is sooooo important that the shell is sweet!. I just completed mine after 6 months of hard work. had severe rust that was sandblasted right out and new welded panels put in.
also got full rubber kit cause once you start doing these things, you might as well go all the way. still need to do much more, but happy i can drive it around now.
if you start urs feel free to ask me anything cause i learnt so much about the ford design thru it all and know how important it is to get advice.
__________________
"He who makes a beast of himself gets rid of the pain of being a man"-Dr Johnson
"trying" to resto my XW and it's not easy as I've NEVER done anything like it before but bugger it's got me gripped. Not too much rust but I decided to make a few panels because theones that were on there were terrible.
Can't flippin wait to get it on the road...
__________________
If at first you don't succeed, delete all evidence that you tried.
Sometimes you're the pigeon, sometimes the statue.
i'm new here, but i own an XB 2door, so heres my 2cents
Muzza is right about the rust spot's, also cheek the door hinge area, because a coupe's doors are very heavy!
something else, if you have taken the back window out, make sure you do a good job at putting it back in, the coupes are bad for leaking in the back window section
thats all i can think of right now....
if i think of anything more i'l let u know
__________________
AU2 VCT XR6 Liquid Silver, Full body kit, Tickford 17's, Pacemaker Extractors, Lukey Sportz muffler and S/S Exhaust System, JR air filter....plus a few other mods!
Lest we forget: XB GS fairmont Coupe, 351c - 4sp toploader...... oh how i miss her...
Thanks for all your replies. Well after the last fiew weeks of some solid demolition of the front end and all pannels, I was greeted by rust that had congregated under the front guards. My god!!!! I could fit my fist through to the firewall. I had a mate come around and he said it was pretty far gorne however now after quite a bit of cutting and welding (and beers), its all started to come together. Everything in the rear of the car is emaculate. I realy cant believe it. Obviously a little surface rust here and there but all off which shouldnt be too much of a problem.
XB Coupe Restoration
27-06-2003, 20:00
XB Coupe Restoration Post #1
coupefan []
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 7
Location: Toowoomba
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Picked up an 74 XB Coupe. POS at the moment and in big need for restore. Im sure theres someone who can give me some pointers with this model. (Rust work ok but looking for things that might normally get missed) Its a ground up job. Also I heard somewhere there is weights somewhere in the body work (Increase in GVM to Size model)
[Edit] [Quote]
28-06-2003, 18:24
Coupe rust Post #2
Muzza []
XR8 XR6 Club of Victoria
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 137
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Status: Offline
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We restored one over a year ago.
Rust:-
1. The panel under ther ear window. I removed the rear glass and replaced the panel. GT Performance in Niddrie have these.
I cut the old rubber to remove the glass as the rubber had gone hard. Got a new rubber as well.
Otherwise all the usuall XA/XB/XC places:-
2. Tail light panel. This rusts along the lower edge where in is spot welded to the boot floor.
I sliced this along it's length and inserted a 4 inch wide sheet with a slight fold in the middle. Some MIGing and filler and it looked like new.
3. Check inside the air well between the top of the firewall and windscreen.
If too much rust then you are in trouble as it is hard to replace bits in here. Mine only had light surface rust which was scrubbed back and I ZF'ed the whole innards.
4. Take the guards off, remaove all the seam sealer and replace it all.
I give this area a good scrub, etch prime, re seam seal, and spray with body deadener.
5. The bottoms of the guards.
6. Around the rear wheel arches.
7. Bottoms of the rear quarter panels.
Remember, NEVER bog rust. It must be cut out and replaced with metal.
The legendary extra weight.....
There is none added on purpose.
Like all cars of that vintage the roof C piller to rear quarter join is finished with "Wiping metal" which is Lead.
Newer cars use "bog" which is light.
However, you may find some of this lead on the inside under the rear side windows where it dripped down during assembly.
The XB V8 coupe weighed about 1550Kg and the BA XR6T weighs around 1710 kg.
Have fun.
______________________________________________________________
The XR family ---->
Muzza: a XR8 AU seriesIII.
TBH: (the better half) drives an ED XR6 wagon (Mock Dev 4 160rwkw, JMM extractors, 4 electric windows, Ghia door panels in XR trim, rear head & arm rests in XR trim, Momo s/wheel, EL thermos, etc).
[Edit] [Quote]
28-06-2003, 21:14
Re: Coupe rust Post #3
Tote []
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 168
Location: Near Canberra
Status: Offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muzza
The XB V8 coupe weighed about 1550Kg and the BA XR6T weighs around 1710 kg.
So a BA XR6T engine in an XB Coupe might be a fun idea.............
Seriously though, you might want to check the engine crossmember as I broke one of these on my XB coupe many years ago. The front subframe will also get damaged due to bottoming out when driven hard over bumps so you might want to check for damage or cracks etc.
Regds
Tote
Last edited by Tote on 28-06-2003 at 21:18.
[Edit] [Quote]
28-06-2003, 21:41
crossmember Post #4
Muzza []
XR8 XR6 Club of Victoria
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 137
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Status: Offline
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Oh, yeah, another couple of mods I did:-
Chopped out a cross member and the panel across the top of the radiator from an 74 vintage Marquis.
1. removed the re-inforcing panel that was spotwelded to the Marquis crossmember section (box section underneath).
Most of the V8s had these so I stuck one into mine (our coupe was a manual 6 originally).
I bought a sump guard to suit the XB and fitted that. The coupe has Kings superlow up front.
I would recommend the added panel if yours doesn't already have one.
Get one off any XD/XE/XF as they were standard on those models.
Try Affordable Wreckers in Dandenong Vic for the sumpguard. Many LTDs and marquis had sumpguards fitted so they are around.
2. I cut out the re-inforcing panel that runs behind the top radiator panel and welded into ours.
Mine went from a narrow 6 cylinder radiator to the wide GT style so the sides of the radiator support panels were widened, the re-inforce panel was installed and I used GT style radiator mounts (also found in 351 LTDs, Marquis etc).
The radiator was a 3 core out of an XD (same width as GT type).
Would have preferred to spot weld those panels in, but, could not get a hold of a spot welder anywhere. I MIG'ed them in instead.
______________________________________________________________
The XR family ---->
Muzza: a XR8 AU seriesIII.
TBH: (the better half) drives an ED XR6 wagon (Mock Dev 4 160rwkw, JMM extractors, 4 electric windows, Ghia door panels in XR trim, rear head & arm rests in XR trim, Momo s/wheel, EL thermos, etc).
[Edit] [Quote]
Yesterday, 23:32
Post #5
OCD-001 : Not quite that keen for $20000 more like 6-10 grand. All bugeted including paint. Full rubber kit for $400 and complete new GT-lookalike interior (Everything) for $1800.
Finaly I have a direction. BTW: Does anyone know were I can get some XB coupe tail lights. I ended up getting some XA coupe ones but wanna do this right.
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