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Old 06-20-2002, 05:14   #1 (permalink)
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XB Electrical Problem - URGENT HELP NEEDED

Fellas need some help with the B. Ive got some wierd electrical prob going on but am not sure what it is. I will attempt to describe the symptoms as best I can.

Firstly, the factory (GT) volt gauge is reading at nothing. It was consistently reading at about 13 volts when the engine was running. Now it doesnt read anything at all, or maybe just 10 volts. It fluctuates.

When driving at night the headlights fart-ass around going very dim (close to non existent) and then sometimes when changing down a gear they light up again. Not nesicarily a rev thing. Dash lights also go dim. Also the idicators click and flash at inconsistent rates, sometimes not at all, NOT SAFE!

Stereo doesnt have enough power to run properly. Cuts its self out because its getting no power.

Ute starts fine, no drama. So I assume its not the battery because it cranks over like it always has. Couldnt be the alternator either cause that would mean the battery would go flat. Could it be the Voltage regulator? This problem has only just come up. The ute is running a 4ltr OHC motor with carb and electronic ignition. Battery is newish.

I need some help asap as its a bastard trying to see the road at night. high beam is pointless as there is not enough power. Also I run a EFI pump and if the power doesnt get to that I dont go anywhere, this happens when the stereo is on (ie the fuel pump cuts out when stereo decides to work).

Cheers for any help

Simon
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Old 06-20-2002, 05:29   #2 (permalink)
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Hmmmmm sounds a bit weird.
So you are saying that If the Stereo works, then the fuel pump has some issues,
and if the deck doesnt work, then the Fuel pump is 100%

Doesnt quite sound like the Alternator or Battery to me as well.
It could be the Battery regulator, but from what I have heard with regulators, if they blow, then the Car Voltage can jump up to 15-16V, not actually be limited to around 10V

Then again I could be mistaken ?

Id say that you have some sort of intermittant High Resistance short or something, that when the wiring is playing up, it is chewing some very high amps, but not enuf to blow fuses or anything like that.

Are there fuses for Fuel Pump, deck, etc, and are these blowing at all ???

Does the problem seem like it happens with physical movement (Bumps, etc)

Is the problem intermittant, can you make it happen all the time, or is it a freaky type problem ?

Other things to check is grounding on chassis, and the connectors on the Battery, Alternator, and Regulator, as if the Ground (Chassis) is not 100%, or any of these connectors are rusty or dodgy, then you can have symptoms similar to above
Im not 100% sure though ???
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Old 06-20-2002, 05:50   #3 (permalink)
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I havent had much time to look at anything yet, bit of a bummer.

No fuses gone, all is coool there. I can make the head lights go brighter by jolting the accelerator around a bit. So that sounds like a loose wire or something rubbing. It doesnt happen over bumps tho. It is a constant problem but its more noticable at night because of the lights. During the day you just see the volt meter reading nothing and the sezza not working.

----So you are saying that If the Stereo works, then the fuel pump has some issues, and if the deck doesnt work, then the Fuel pump is 100%----

Yes thats right
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Old 06-20-2002, 05:53   #4 (permalink)
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I dont know if the fuel pump is 100% tho. I sometimes get a splutter as if the fuel pump could have cut out. That only happens when stopping at an intersection or something like that (could be un related)
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Old 06-20-2002, 07:13   #5 (permalink)
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my bet is EARTHING PROBLEM.

From the problems you describe it sounds like there is no earth lead (or loose or dirty connection) from the battery negative to the chassis, or when you have put the new mota in you have left off the earth lead from the block to the chassis (normally mounts on firewall near heater core on early fords).

When you push the accelerator, the current is travelling down the cable / linkage and temporarily earthing the chassis from the earth that is already on the engine.

Easy way to check is get a jumper lead and stick one end on engine and one end on chassis. To be on the safe side i would also add and extra earth direct from batery negative to chassis.
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Old 06-21-2002, 00:03   #6 (permalink)
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Cheers botch :)
I will try this ASAP. One question tho, you are saying that there is a negative cable from the motor block to the chassis. I know ive got one going to the block at the moment but thats looking a bit ragged so I will replace that aswell. So I need to look for one going from somewhere on the block to somewhere on the chassis. I know that my Datto has the neg cable running off the starter motor onto the chassis.

One thing I cant understand is why has it only just happened?s
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Old 06-21-2002, 00:15   #7 (permalink)
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uteman > botch has got it pretty well sussd - replace the earth wire from engine to battery with a really heavy one - if this doesn't fix it 100% then fit a new earth wire from battery to chassis (doesn't have to be from the motor). When you put the new loom in for your EFI motor did you properly ground all the ground wires? - these are critical to the integrity of the whole system and if any are loose, dirty, wet or not fitted at all you will have shorting (high current robbing voltage) through a lot of the circuits resulting in symptoms just like you described in your first post. With electrics (especially electronics as in the new EFI systems) it is sometimes impossible to explain why these things suddenly occur for no apparent reason - it is all systems GO one minute then the wierdiest happenings the next.
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Old 06-21-2002, 00:29   #8 (permalink)
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Bloody electrics. As far as I know the loom is ok. My mechanic replaced the positive lead from the battery to the starter motor for me but didnt have any other wire for the negative so he used my old one from the 1974 250. So age has got the better of it.

Would the bad earthing of accessories (such as the stereo) rob as much voltage as I am losing? I think the stereo needs a better earth along with the power aerial.

I wired 2 more kill switches in front of my other one which is in the power line to the fuel pump. I know this will create more resistance in the circuit (due to more wire needed and switches) but it should still deliver a decent amount of power to my fuel pump, shouldnt it?

Driving home tonight with lights off (not dark enough) I noticed the volt meter read at a bit over 13 volts. I turned the stereo on and it was fine then after one track it started going silly.

Off the check the groundings I go.
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Old 06-21-2002, 00:34   #9 (permalink)
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uteman > if you put the kill switches in line to the pump did you put them before or after the pump relay? - This is important as there should be no break in the supply line from relay to the pump. You can place as many circuit breakers/switches as you like in the relay switching wire.
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Old 06-21-2002, 00:43   #10 (permalink)
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I'd suggest using graphit type grease on the contact area where the earth bonds/leads are done,especially where there is alloy.Any moisture and you can end up with a high restistant joint no problem, but looks o/k...
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