CobraJet

Hi all, been veiwing the site for some time and I've struck a problem so I though I'd ask the masses.

Would like to know what type of radiator should be in a 64.5 D code convertible.
The car is an auto with A/C. Should it be a 2,3 or 4 core

Thanks in advance CJ

Scrubtik

The original radiator was a 2 core job,8 1/2 US quarts on the 6's & 14 quarts on the V8's.
Early A/C models had 6 blade fans & later production models had 5 blades,with the drive clutch on the A/C unit.There should also be a shroud with your A/C model.

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When your in a hole........Stop Dig'n!!
"Overdraft" the 'Stang

CobraJet

Thanks for the heads up Scrubtik, very interesting. When I drained the rad, I only got about 6 quarts out. Is the US quart different to the Wakefield Castrol oil bottles?

Currently a 3 core rad, 6 blade fan but no shroud, still overheating at speed (sometimes), any idea?

Is the shroud you're talking about like the ones on the xw -xy aussie falcons

Big Block Ford

It could be worth removing the radiator and getting it cleaned at a radiator shop. This will mean having the top and bottom tanks removed and the inner tubes cleaned out. They sometimes get gunk inside the tubing and you are effectivly only using part of the radiator.

If the core looks fairly stuffed then just get a new core fitted instead.

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Lance
71 429SCJ Mustang

Scrubtik

The shroud is similar to our Falcons but I'm not sure if they will bolt up to the original Mustang radiator.They help draw more air through the cooling fins,by creating a Venturi effect,capturing the air that would be lost around the outer edges of the fan.More important in the A/C models where the condensor creates more cooling load.
They help more at idle & low speed where you need the extra flow.At high speed the natural air flow should be enough to cool the engine,(I run a Davies-Craig 16" thermo fan only & it only comes on under hard driving & idle) so as "Big Block" states,you may have a different problem.
Is the radiator new?These old cooling sytems have to be clean to be efficient.Maybe a reverse flush & pressure test.A good cap holding pressure will help.
Retarded timing will tend to run a little hotter.Collapsing hoses & higher speeds won't help.Good Thermostat?Start at the cheaper end & work your way through.
As to the US quart query......I did a few sums & ended up with a headache
The US gallon is approx 3.78lt.Ours is 4.54lt
4 quarts /gallon,1US qt= .94lt
1 Aus QT=1.135lt
Conclusion.........Buggered if I know!!

__________________
When your in a hole........Stop Dig'n!!
"Overdraft" the 'Stang

CobraJet

Thanks for your suggestions guys

Been down most avenues mentioned.

BB, the radiator has been flushed twice now, however I'm still getting some little bits of scale sitting in the top of the tubes.

Scrubtik, the bottom hose had no wire in it when I picked the car up, went back and got new top and bottom hoses. Thermostat is now out of the car so most of the time it runs at about 1/3 on gauge at speed. Also has a new cap.

I'd considered the timing as it gets hot when under load (uphill) at speed. The vaccum line apears to be very small so maybe thats the problem

The car is currently being level'd up by pedders, after that it's of to get a note and tune, I'll get pressure tests and timing (advance) checked then and let you know.

Thanks CJ

Big Block Ford

CJ were the top and bottom tanks on the radiator removed or has it just been flushed with water. If you still can't find the problem and this hasn't been done then it could be worth while doing as I have seen these tubes totally blocked and of course all the flushing in the world won't clear them because the water won't go through the tubes. Sometimes they have to be physically cleaned with a tube brush or wire which can only be done by having the tanks removed (they are lead soldered on) and cleaned. If the core is a little stuffed then it is better to replace it as this requires the tanks removing anyhow. Hope you find the problem mate. Let us know how you make out with it.

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Lance
71 429SCJ Mustang