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Old 04-17-2005, 18:33   #1 (permalink)
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Axle Seals '68 coupe

Hi
Need practical advice - I rebuilt engine, transmission, suspension, brakes, interior, paint etc. on a 1968 Mustang Coupe about 15000 miles ago: I did not do differential or axle seals.
This year the right axle seal has started to leak (probably original at 150,000 miles).
My manual indicacates that a leather seal is appropriate and great care must be used to install etc.
Need to know what is best replacement seal and what special tools are needed to install it; does replacement require special tools - can I do it without (being carefull etc).
I have done front axle seals on a 1988 Cherokee, rear seals / bearings on a 1967 Morris so I am not a total novice - just need practical advice please.
Thx
Nick
Lockport, NY
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Old 04-19-2005, 04:01   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Axle Seals '68 coupe

A slide hammer & seal remover would make the job a little easier but it can be done without specialised tools.
The replacement,lip type(rubber) seal is available from most parts houses & can be installed with a suitable sized socket.Gently tap it in,keeping it square,untill seated.You could use a little sealer(Permatex ect) ,on the outside of the seal,depending on the condition of the housing seating area.Clean up the area with a bit of Wet & Dry paper,grease the seals(the rubber,not the outside) & gently slide the axles through.
After 150k,the axles might be a battle to remove.Some will fall out.....most need a little persuasion!After removing the 4 backing plate bolts you could reverse the brake drum & bolt it to the axle.Run the nuts down till the threads are flush,& give it a few sharp jolts,(Slide hammer fashion)hopefully it will end up in your lap!
A heavy chain bolted to the axles can also be used.Snap the chain & stand clear!
If this fails.......it's time for the Gas Axe(Oxy)!Heat in the axle housing will help.
Greg
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Old 04-19-2005, 18:34   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Axle Seals '68 coupe

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrubtik
A slide hammer & seal remover would make the job a little easier but it can be done without specialised tools.
The replacement,lip type(rubber) seal is available from most parts houses & can be installed with a suitable sized socket.Gently tap it in,keeping it square,untill seated.You could use a little sealer(Permatex ect) ,on the outside of the seal,depending on the condition of the housing seating area.Clean up the area with a bit of Wet & Dry paper,grease the seals(the rubber,not the outside) & gently slide the axles through.
After 150k,the axles might be a battle to remove.Some will fall out.....most need a little persuasion!After removing the 4 backing plate bolts you could reverse the brake drum & bolt it to the axle.Run the nuts down till the threads are flush,& give it a few sharp jolts,(Slide hammer fashion)hopefully it will end up in your lap!
A heavy chain bolted to the axles can also be used.Snap the chain & stand clear!
If this fails.......it's time for the Gas Axe(Oxy)!Heat in the axle housing will help.
Greg

Hi Greg

Many thx for answer. I will try the "no special tools" route and see if gentle persausion will release axles.
You answered may major issue with comments about today's seals - the fact that they can be installed with care is what I wanted to hear. When I did seals on '88 Cherokee, I had to invent a seal puller (made of a piece of copper plumbing and a threaded rod) to seat them properly. Using a socket to seat seal is the equivalent on the '68 Coupe.
I will do job over next 2-3 weeks and re-post with results.
Rgds
Nick
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