Every so often, my Mustang will run for an extra second or two once I've shut off the ignition. I was told it's because I need to let it "sit" for a few seconds after putting it into park, before removing the key.
Its called running on.
its normally caused by a high idle/poor ignition timing.
This is a SERIOUS issue that any decent mechanic will be able to fix quite easily. Running on has the potential to take the top off a piston and force a rebuild.
GET IT LOOKED AT!!!
in the interim, when you shut it off, do it in drive, that way there is a load on the engine, that will force it to stop rotating, then grab park.
Same for any manual that runs on, switch off, and release the clutch a little.
this method should only be used until the car can be looked at.
its a simple tune issue and nothing terminal, unless you ignore it.
Thanks, it's going in next week for another issue so I'll have it checked. It idles high after being driven for a while but that's due to the way they adjusted the carb. It runs like it came off the showroom floor now .... I hope that doesn't change :)
Long time no see Pammie! Yeah, you should have it checked out by your resto guy. Like jas said, turn the car off in drive until than. When the motor diesels thru like that after being shut off, it would cause damage, just a matter of time when the damage adds up.
__________________
Diamante nel di Massima
Horsepower tells how fast you can hit a wall . . . Torque tells lets you move the wall.
The resto guy will never, ever touch my car after all the "mistakes" he made on it. I now have a rock-solid mechanic, a Ford guy, who knows his stuff. He's the type that was taught by his father to diagnose a car by the sound it makes, not hook it up to a computer -- an old time car guy. Sorta like most of you, I suspect!
It hasn't kept running like that for several weeks, ever since he adjusted the carb (and rebuilt it a second time, don't ask). It uses more gas now as he told me it would, but it makes vacuum correctly and isn't open all the time, so everything else works properly, like the brakes that wouldn't make vacuum correctly for the first minute or so of driving it.
She purrs now and has a ton of get-up-and go. I took the highway yesterday (I don't do that often, preferring the long country roads) and had to pass someone and floored it and like the good little pony she is, smoothly went fast past the guy as if she was a brand new car.
Alright, You have the same set up as me. Try and find out exactly what they did to your carb. Just the fact that they drilled into the carb makes me uneasy.
The replacement for that carb is the Autolite 1100 1v carb. There is a site that can get you one for $189. It's actually off the 170ci I6, but works fine for the 200. If you want a little extra torque 13~ bux can get you a splitter for the intake just under the carb that splits the #1, #2 and #3 clyinders from the #4, #5, and #6 clyinders and you can run the exhaust manifold off of a 250ci I6 for another increase in power.
Don't listen to the guys over on MF talking about fordsix.com or whatever. I have been waiting for 2 years for them to finish the intake and everything else and get some numbers up and personally, anyone who runs a business without updating regularly is someone I don't like. For months there would be the same update saying the same thing and we were just left in the balance to wait and get tired of waiting.
__________________
Diamante nel di Massima
Horsepower tells how fast you can hit a wall . . . Torque tells lets you move the wall.
Check your PM elsewhere for more info on the carb. They had no choice but to drill since the hole was in the wrong place (I typed that with a straight face, too).
He gave me a very intense explanation as to what was done on the carb, but honestly, after waiting 3 weeks for them to diagnose and fix it, I was just anxious to get her back and drive and didn't fully understand all he told me. I'm going to ask again this week and write it all down, as it got quite technical. I've been meaning to do that but haven't been there that much other than to talk about restoring my other car.
I'm almost positive my car had the original carb when it went in for restoration, but the guys they sent it to sent back a swapout that was done incorrectly. The problem is this was about 10 months ago so even if I were to call them and demand my carb back, they'd have no clue who I was or where it went, since they do tons of these every day.
I'm not searching for an original carb since almost everything else on the car is either original or rebuilt.
Running on (also called diesling) is often caused by carbon build up creating hot spots in the head that ignite the gas even when there is no spark. This can be fixed on cars without catalytic converters by either using a upper cylinder head lubricant/cleaner like Red-X (takes longer) or spraying a fine mist of water down the carburettor throat for a few minutes while the engine is running (flick the throttle every now and then so a pool doesn't build up on the butterflies valves). Try this water spray trick on a car with catalytic and you risk blocking the cat converters.
Some carbs have a anti runon solonoid valve that cuts off the fuel when you switch off the ignition. Check you carb hasn't got one and if it has that it is connected and working (ie wiring going to the carb). Also seeGM-GMC: "dieseling"
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Yeah, you should have it checked out by your resto guy. Like jas said, turn the car off in drive until than. When the motor diesels thru like that after being shut off, it would cause damage, just a matter of time when the damage adds up.
Linear Mode
