Guyzie1

Does anyone have any suggestions how to fix vapor lock? I've got a 65 convertible with a 289 and a 2V carb. It cut out in traffic last week and wouldn't go again until it cooled down. Vapor lock has been suggested as the cause but has anyone seen this and have any suggestions on how to fix it?

Many thanks

Zoltan

IMO you need to find a way of insulating the fuel line from engine heat.
Used to be able to get asbestos fireproof gauze and wrap in around fuel supply pipes. Asbestos is not a popular material nowadays.

Scrubtik

Are you sure it's Vapour Lock?Many fuel problems are ignition related.
How's the ignition components?Check the points,plugs,rotor,condensor & cap.Pitted points will stick after a hot shut down/restart.Getting good current to the coil?A faulty coil can act up with the symptoms you describe & fire up after cooling down.
Advanced timing will tend to make the car run hotter.
A faulty battery earth can cause problems too.
An old trick is to start the car up,in a dark area & have a look for any sparks jumping around the engine bay.
If none of these are the problem.........at least your car will be running better!
Now to the fuel delivery........First thing to look for is fuel pump pressure.A mechanical guage will tell & if it's not up to scratch,could be the pump.Check the filter & blow the fuel lines to the tank.
Check the fuel line from the pump to the carb & see if it is coming close to the block anywhere.With a stock system,especially around #5 cylinder.
If it looks too close you could wrap it it some insulating material as Zoltan said.
Check the choke flap operation for sticking & float level.
Finally...a carb spacer will insulate the carb from manifold heat & stop the fuel percolating in the bowl.
Greg

__________________
When your in a hole........Stop Dig'n!!
"Overdraft" the 'Stang

Guyzie1

All good suggestions - thanks. Things are nver as simple as they first appear. I'm pretty sure the problem isn't with the plugs, battery or anything distributer realted and the timing is OK. I haven't checked the coil so I will do that. I've checked the float level and carb operation and have now put an extra gasket in under he carb to see if that helps with the insulation.

The fuel line before the fuel pump is nowhere near the engine, but between the pump and the carb it does get pretty close. Should I insulate that? I've read that the problem occurs when the fuel vaporizes before it gets to the mechanical pump, not once it has passed through the pump.