Hi everyone. Just picked up a 66 stang w/ 289 2brl, auto, coupe. Body is straight, paint fair. Interior good and clean. Needs rear end work. Tranny leak fixed and front end bushings. It is drivable but the engine has some issues. I've posted in the tech section looking for advise and suggestions. Any input would be appriciated....Oh ya I got it for 2 g's and have been offered 4.5 last week. Unreal!!
Hi everyone. Just picked up a 66 stang w/ 289 2brl, auto, coupe. Body is straight, paint fair. Interior good and clean. Needs rear end work. Tranny leak fixed and front end bushings. It is drivable but the engine has some issues. I've posted in the tech section looking for advise and suggestions. Any input would be appriciated....Oh ya I got it for 2 g's and have been offered 4.5 last week. Unreal!!
Well bro if ya got any questions, ive got a 65 RATstang w/a 289/ 302 heads, 4 brl carb, and im just getting it drive able from the last 4 years that its sat in my garage..... its a straight cali car, no rust, nicebody...... but ill have some pics up after its ready to rip.......
Someone put 302 heads on this one also. I've been told the only diff. is the exhaust port shape. Anyway... Im getting a real bad shudder when puting it in drive at idle. I've been told the power valve is the culprit and possible vacume leak. I'm in the process of intake gasket and carb rebuild. while I have the manifold off I will be changing the lifters, got a rattle that wont go away. Will tell of outcome monday.
OK... I did the lifters, intake manifold gasket and took the carb to a carb shop. Rus good except it still shakes when put in drive untill rpm is raised. its not as bad as it was but still there. the carb is now showing signs that it wants to be adjustable. (The carb guy bumped ur the jet size because the idle circut wasnt working before) He also said this leanness would cause the shakes. I also noticed a 6 deg slop in timeing chain.
not sure if that would do it. Or maybe the torque converter is wacked. I will take it to the carb guy so he can tweek the carb while its on the car.
you know that you should really tune the carb everyday? it has to be tuned for for the every day diff enviroment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by KeMo
Ok... Im gonna do the timing chain first.. that way I know that thats correct. Ive been told that the cam sprocket is made of nylon (scarry)
and to go along with your timing chain, i was looking in my YearOne catalog and theyve got a new part, dont know the exact name off the top of my head but its two gears that ride in between the two timing chain gears, i think i might run that, atleast its a better chance its not gonna jump a tooth. well i hope u get it all figured out, u got any pics? i can host them for you if needed.... oh ya the diff in the 302 heads on the 289, i also beleive its a compression difference too
xffairmont... not the brake booster.. No power brakes.
Dodge... whats going on at Crystal cove? I'm not driving her far untill she's primo!
Olskool... I'm not racing this car. Just getting her running good. Once the carb is set that will be that. She actualy runs good. I just know that shake has got to go!
I've seen those timing gear sets your talking about, definetly HiPo stuff. they also have a "whiney" noise to them. I'll just put a stock gear set in. Good enough for me.
every sat morning at crystal cove a hugh turn out of exotic cars and lots of rare cars like Boss 429, GT 67 fastbacks and mini cooper S. u have to be at the gate at 7am sharp to get ur car on display or u can rock up after and enjoy the walk around.
289 heads are closed chamber and most 302 are open chamber so ur compression ratio will be lower with 302 heads, it pays to fit a double row timing set and while ur there fit a new cam and lifters, i will bet after 38 yrs the original is a little flatter then when it was new.
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